Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

What form do the spats come in?

[Keith Dance 2]

Thank you both,

Having seen your ideas I am going to chamfer the trailing edge of the wing as well as the flap and also inset the robart hinge into the flap to get a greater clearance when the flap moves down.

Many thanks guys.

Keith.

Mario your English is fine but your drawings better!

[MThemadhatter]

I was wondering about the arrangement with those flaps, if you where to do a more scale hinge would it look something like this ?

 

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

MT'

 

Something similar, but the flap would have to remain  inline with  the wing.

 

Check on page 17,

there you will find an end on view of Mario's wing and flap installation.

 

 

Keith

 

That is the easiest option..........a double chamfer

 

Terry

[MThemadhatter]

Thanks, The gap is just my poor drawing skills lol

 

The weather is awful so I have got back to building today. I have finished of the rudder and tail plane and the elevator.

 

 

I added the bottom section of 3mm sheet and in fill for the control horn after this picture was taken. 

 

I Have now cleared and tidied up and set out the wing section of the plan.

I have patienltly labled all the ribs and then filed them to fit on the spa and then dry fitted them ( the light ply ones are missing in this photo.

 

I have tack glued some sections of 3mm balsa to pack out the main spa, but how do you line up the ribs so the leading and trailing edges are in line, and should it be the top or bottom of the ribs in line on the LE or TE

 

 

 

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

MT,

 

Use a length of 6mm square.

Pin it to your board just under the TE. Before gluing do a dry run with  ribs

positiond on the spar, then use a steel  rule to check for any high ones, 

 check for reason and rectify.

 Once satisfied  glue your ribs in position  pin  to the mainspar,

 and pin through the TE into the 6mm sq.

As long as all the ribs cutout for the main spar are exact, the LE will

 automatically line up. 

 .

I deliberatly did not mention my method of wing building as I do not

wish to confuse. 

 

By the way, you are doing  a grand job.

 

Terry 

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 02/04/2010 18:25:33

[MThemadhatter]

Thanks terry , I don't have any 6x6 at hand except the obiechi , but I do have a bit of 6x9mm so layed that flat and pinned it to the board so it looks like this.

 

 

This is a dry run, I found that w2 was sitting lower on the spa than the others, so will need to pack it out a little some how, or hold in place and use thin CA to lock it in place. My plan is the same as with the tail. That is to line up the rib and then wick medium Zap CA into the joint. This seems very good at filling any gaps.  Would it be a good idea to insert the wing rod tubes before gluing the ribs in place to make sure they line up properly ? 

 

I have just realised I made a bo bo with the rudder. The solid tip has the grain going length ways and not vertical so will snap off easily. I will have to razor saw this off and do again with the grain vertical. It would be nice to have the grain direction on the plan.

 

I have packed up for the day , getting cold in the loft lol and will start on this tomorrow

Edited By MThemadhatter on 02/04/2010 19:41:41

[Supermario]

Hi guys

Today is holyday in Portugal and I get a extra time to build my Lizzie.

And I began to do a thing that worry me a little.

Painting the model like the original Weston Lysander original.

Masks ready for brush painting.

Notice the litlle draw pointed by the green arrow. This is the profile of the spats that I draw before glued them to the U/C. Soon you will see for what is that profile.

One thing I was afraid was if I be able to do the "degradé" between colours.

I like very much the final work.

I continue without gluying the fin to the fuselage. I will try to do all the work I can including paint the marks and just glue it when is time to barnish

 

The thin strips of solartex begin to appear

Mario

[Terry Whiting 1]

MT,

Yes that is fine.

 

Before adjusting W2 on the mainspar first do a dry run with the tubes,

as W2 might be just a fraction undersize in it's overall depth, but seating perfect

 on the spar. Whatever you do, do not be tempted to glue those

 tubes until both inner wing panels a built.

The tubes set the dihedral of the wings, and have to be absolutely level,

and parallel to each other.

Also do not glue the tubes to F4 & F5 until you whole wing is built.

 

The wing is the most critical part of the whole build.

 

Terry

[MThemadhatter]

Terry

 

Good then I will start tomorrow. I had thought that gluing the tubes in would not be a good idea at the moment . The tube alingment was one thing that was worrying me a little as you say get it wrong and your buying a new CNC pack and rebuilding the wings lol. So I am going to make sure everything is perfect before glueing anything.

 

Mario

 

That looks really, really good especially the panel lines. How did yo do those ? is it just trim line under the covering ? And looking at yours Solartex is definitely the way to go.

[rookie jim]

All,

oh my god. I have just read Terry's piece about how to do the wings. I just glued the ribs and l.e. and t.e on as per magazine instructions. I did check that the tops of the ribs were level and none seemed out. Also after having read the article i tried to fit the brass tubes into the wing and they fit  very well with no problems, so the holes are lined up..

 

hopefully not too bad

 

 

I willjust  have to keep my fingers crossed.

 

As i said earlier, learning all the time

 

Jim 

[Supermario]

Hi

Max

Those panel lines I cut little strips of solartex and applyed them under the solartex cover.

At first we don't notice them, but after painting they begin to stay visible. I think when I put the final cote of barnish they will be clearly seen.

Mário

[Supermario]

As I have told I will post pictures of the way I continue the spats setup.

First I use the profile of the spat to cut in 8mm balsa one piece for bottom and one for top

 

Then I trial fit in place dividing in two parts from former to former

 

The pieces are glued with a gap of 2mm from the surface of the spat and a little upper from the surface of the formers

 

Those balsa pieces are shaped to former

In the picture you can see that I have to shape the upper pieces to finish.

 

This pieces are not intend to reinforce the fuselage or the spats. They just serve for secure sheeting.

 

That's one of the reasons I never sheet the front because reading the plan I soon got the

impression that if I just cut around the spat the 3mm of balsa sheeting this will be a area

not to strong.

 

And speaking in cover and painting I will get a chance to put some silicone painting material

in the gap forming a fillet (skirt) that is more like the original one and in terms of building much more reasonable.

 

Mário

 

Please understand that this is my way of doing things, not better not worst from the others but my way. I call that one alternative way.

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

HI Mario,

Your painting looks extremely good as does all your work. You my friend

 are a true modelling perfectionist and teacher. I for one appreciates all

your pictures and sketch attachments as I'm sure the rest of the group do.

 

 

I'm sorry if I worried some of you guys about the tube fixings, but when I read TN

building instuctions in the magazine, I thought  'No way pal' , 

It was obvious to me those tubes on F4 & F5 should only be glued after

the wing's geometry has been established, and you require the finished

wing for that job.

 

This is my method of gluing the tubes in both inner wing panels.

 

First I clamped a 1m length of good STRAIGHT 18mm batten to your

 building board,

Cut the carbon rods to length, and slide on the 4 pieces of brass tube.

Insert these into both inner wing panels.

Draw the wing panels to the batten so that the flap hinge spar is level with the batten

With both R1 ribs sitting on the build board, pack under both F9,  ribs at the

 main spar a pieces of 6mm balsa. This procedure sets the dihedral.

 

Check rod/tubes for level and are absolutely parallel. When satisfied epoxy

home the tubes

 

 When the wing is finished you will see that the flaps run parallel to the

 leading edge of the outer panels.

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

    

 

 

[MThemadhatter]

I have  completed the two inner wing panels today, to their skeleton state at least. One thing anyone using the wood pack should know is to cut one inner, and one outer spa from each length of 6x6 obichei, don't cut two inners from on length like I did. If you do you won't have enough.

 

Here are some pics as usual 

 

One thing I found was that the spa does not sit flush with the ribs, so some carefull sanding will be required when it comes to do the sheeting. Also a 3mm spa slotter from perma grit would be invaluable for fitting the trailing edge. Oh and yes I picked up the wrong size 6mm strip from my box and did not realise, hence to bits stuck together I realised on the second one

 

Now on to he outer wing panels. Am I right in thinking that you add the wash out after you have joined the two wing halves but before you add any sheeting or webbing on the spas ?

 

Did you use the same technique of a 6x6 strip under the leading edge with the outer wing halves ??

Edited By MThemadhatter on 03/04/2010 16:20:53

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

My obechi spars have actually warped slightly but the addition of the leading edge sheeting will be able to remove that.

[Supermario]

Hi

Today I paint the insignias in the rudder.

Quite a job. add a mask, paint one colour, let dry, put mask....paint other

but the result is very good.

Max

Now we can see clearly the panel lines.

Because the panel lines I can´t use grafic vinyl cut insignias, but the work of paint worth wile.

Mário

 

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Can I just get you to do mine mario? :P

[Terry Whiting 1]

MT.

 

Nearly missed your question.

To answer your question, do not use 6mm under TE of the outer panel

as you would end up  with colossal washout, and the WO is in  the

outer panel only. 

 

As you wanting to build in washout (I did too)  you require a taper, 

Have you 6mm sheet stock? because this taper required is 44cm long

and it's taper is from 8mm down to 3mm. That taper will give 3.5--4 degree.

If you do not build in WO it is still best to build using a taper but that of

3mm to 5mm 

 

If you have never built a wing with WO,  I'm willing to do a run through.

of the build.

 

Terry 

 

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Mario

 

Looking good, looking forward seeing the finished job as many 

guys are I'm sure.

 

 

Peter,

Another method of painting an insignia on a fin is,

mask it's outside dimension and paint the whole

area matt white,when dry add one mask down it's

centre and overpaint in red and blue, when removing

all m/tape you have a finished insignia. 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 04/04/2010 09:16:49

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

I think I shoud be alright with the painting, I have quite a bit of experience spraying car body shells

[Allan Bennett]

I've just done my insignia, but I masked it the other way round -- I did the whole thing dark blue first, then covered the blue portion and sprayed red, then covered the red and sprayed white, all while leaving the original mask in place.

 

I did it that way so that there would be no chance of the white "grinning" out from under the darker colours, or around their edges.

[rookie jim]

All,

The thought of painting decals is for me at this stage one step too far so I have bought a set of self adhesive british wwII decals by Flair .

 

jim

[MThemadhatter]

Terry

 

Thanks that would be very helpful, this is the most complex wing I have built so far, and you can never have to much advice. I am currently trying to get some 8mm carbon rod, my lhs had the delivery from ripmax which was supposed to have them in it, but you can guess what was missing

Mario

 

I really like the way your covering has come out, and I think getting the natural solatex, then painting it first black and then putting the tiger stripes on would be the best plan for me. I have heard that solartex can look quite dirty after a while if you don't paint it. You will have to let us know the wieght of your finished plane. I am currently puzzling over where to put the rx in the fuse. I am on 2.4Ghz so I will have to keep it away from the landing gear, my favourite location would be behind F4 that way I can get at it by removing just the canopy. 

 

Need to finish the wing first though.

 

 

[Supermario]

Hi all

Max

I don't think a good idea paint all black.

You know the great trouble of covering in solartex and paint and in my case barnish is the weight.

We have to do compromise between a good paint surface and little ink ( paint )

In my case, I need four coats of paint to look good.

The way for you is, paint all yellow and then make the black stripes or mask and paint yelow what is yellow and black what is black.

To cover black with yellow paint you need a lot of coats, and then the weight ups.

But that depends on the paint you use.

Make a test first, is my advice.

The fin for me works as a test

Right now I am painting the wings.

Mário