Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[Terry Whiting 1]

Very Nice Ron, and a crediit to you it being your first build.  I also dressed mine in black as I have seen the Old Warden  Lysander flying so many times.

 

Terry

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 16/05/2010 11:51:51

[Supermario]

Hi Ron

Congratulations for your maiden flight.

Wellcome in Lizzies Flying Corps.

Regards

Mário

[Geoff Daunt]

Hi Guys,

Just finished inner and outer wing pannels of left wing.

I have glued the 2 ply joiners onto the inner wing panel and now trying to align outer wing panel before gluing in place.

what a job.!!!!

This must be the most difficult join l have attempted.

My other builds have been a straight join,,,,,,,,but here the inner leading edge is in one plane the main spars in another and the traling edge in yet a third plane.

Easy for TN to say once satisfied with fit ( l guess he just has a tad more experience) then glue together.

All credit to you guys who have put it together...but for us lesser builders ....any tips as to how to join the panels together so every thing fits in a straight line.????....or is it just lots of patience and trial and error in sanding.!!!

Any assistance greatly received.

Geoff.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Geoff,

 

This is when the dihedral should be set. Do this over your plan.

 

With W1  sitting on your board slid two thin wedges under the

 LE and TE of W1, these are to take up any rocking, but it must

 not lift W1 off the board.

Now under the mainspar of W9 place (spot glue) a 6mm packer big enough

so the mainspar of your outer panel can also rest when offered.

At this point I advise you place some form of  weight on the

inner panel to hold firm

Under mainspar of W20 you need  a packer of 40mm , this packer

I made from scrap consisting of a 37mm block glue to 3mm sheet,

 

This 40mm packer can be spot glued (syno) to the W20 rib at the mainspar.

Now carefully offer the outer panel to the inner. Because of the dihedral

you most probably will have to sand the end of the top mainspar and

the inner LE. Keep checking it's lining up with the plan.

 

With the inner panels lower mainspar resting on the 6mm packer  (W9)

you TE spars and inner LE of both panels should line up.  

 

Check all is in line before gluing.

 

Terry

 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 17/05/2010 20:39:18

[rookie jim]

Well done Ron.

one day i may finish mine. hope to get back to sorting out dihedral this week. spent a bit of time repairing trainer. must remember not to fly when its very windy and gusty.

 

had to tidy up work area this weekend after the repair so now i am clear to start again.

 

Geoff. i agree. not easy wings by any stretch of the imagination. still with terry's help i am sure we will both get there.

 

Jim

[Doug Ireland]

Mario, great video and good to be able to put a face to a name! What are you building next? Whatever it is we want to see it on this forum

[Supermario]

Hi Doug

I was answering you but is the second time that after wrighting all could not send the message because it demands to login and I'm loged.

I will try lather.

Mario

[Supermario]

Hi Doug

Now I’m building scale floats for my Piper Cub J3.

They are scale floats called Edo Floats, from Balsa USA, are 1:3 scale and they are really scale floats with rivets and everything.

Is a conventional building with spars and formers and plywood covering and a lot of building details.

About new buildings I’m serious thinking in scaling the TN plan and build the Lysander 1:3 scale because after I build and fly my Lizzie I became addicted to this plane.

But is a winter project. If in the mean time something appears I’ll let you all know.

I will continue here in this thread until all the members join the Lizzie Flying Corps that have in service mine, Terry’s, Ron’s and John Laverick, and waiting for Jim, Max, Geoff; Peter; Papa, Hugh, Kiwi and forgive me if I forgot someone name.

Regards

Mario

 

Edited By Supermario on 17/05/2010 23:55:27

Edited By Supermario on 17/05/2010 23:56:37

[Terry Whiting 1]

Mario,

 

A  1/3rd scale (5.5m  6.5 foot span) Lysander, that would be a fantastic

build,  and a cowl of that size with a 7 cylinder radial would be music

to the ear. but rather expensive music I fear.

 

After seing that picture of your 1/3rd Cub,  by adding those floats will make

it a monster of a  model, but a fantastic flyer.

I had a 1/5th  (2.10m span) Aviat Husky on floats which was a real joy to fly,

and using the Husky's huge flaps you could touch down on the water at

walking pace.

 

 I wonder if floats were ever tried on the Lysander???.....If anyone would

have tried I'm sure it would have been Canadian.

 

Any records Jack???

 

Terry 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 18/05/2010 10:02:39

[Klippy]

According to British Aircraft of World War II by David Mondey, Lysanders were used as 'air-sea rescue aircraft' , very tantalising, and no pictures of what form they took.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Thanks for the info Tony.

 

TW

[rookie jim]

Terry,

have now done the first wing panel. the panel slides on to the rods ok although some holes are a bit bigger and those in W1 are close to the top . the panel now sits so that W9 with the packer underneath sits on the board and W1 is less than the thicknes of a sheet of paper off the board as best as i can tell.there is enough of a gap around the tubes so that  A slight pressure on the spar at W1 results in W1 and W9 sitting on the board. there is enough gap at W2 as well . Do i need to do any more on this panel at the moment.?

 

Now for the second panel. 

 

Jim

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Jim,

 

Hope you are feeling better.

 

Just sand the holes a little of W1 so enabling W1 to sit on the board.

Do not worry about the enlaged holes at the moment, that will be rectified

later.

You can now repeat the process for the other panel.

 

Did you purchase a 1m length of 25-30mm aluminium angle, as it will be

 required soon. I personally  find aluminium angle a veratile straight edge

for modelling needs.

 

Terry  

 

  

[rookie jim]

Terry,

yes i have the aluminium angle. also while in B&Q i got a couple of aluminium tubes (round) one 6mm and the other 8mm. 1 metre long. i adapted your idea of a pencil and double sided tape for sanding the holes. i have cut off about 6 inches or so and am using them instead of the pencil. with 2 thicknesses i can start with the narrow one and if need be as the hole gets larger move up to the 8mm one. seem to work. only abour£ 2.50 to £3 each .

 

As for the panel.

 

I have managed to get W1 on first panel sorted but what a job. i kept sanding and it didnt make any difference. the top of W1 was getting thinner and thinner. even checked that board was level, tubes were level and the packer was 6mm etc and still it didnt fit.

 

 Then it occurred to me. on my board i have the plan pinned down and covered by a sheet of thin plastic, as all the articles suggest. the complte board was covered in plastic. it was then that i realised the jig was on the board over the plan, but the plan is shorter than the board and W9 was on the part of the board without the plan underneath. i then put another plan sheet on the board and hey presto - success.

 

I couldnt believe it but this build really  is a learning curve !!

 

Gettng on with panel number 2 tonight and tomorrow. i assume that when we fix the holes the thinness of the top of W1 will not be an issue once the tubes are glued in.

 

Thanks for the help once again.

 

Jim

Edited By rookie jim on 19/05/2010 22:02:51

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Jim,

 

I think it's best  stop what you are doing, carefully  remove  ribs W1 .2.and.3

from both panels,  and I will send you new replacement ribs of 3mm liteply.

It's no problem, on  my band saw it's only a few minute job.

 

Just PM me your address again as I  can not find it ,must have deleted it.

 

Regards  Terry

  

 

[Geoff Daunt]

Terry,

Sorry for the delay in a response.

Many thanks for the info. Left wing panels now joined after some carefull sanding.

Your reminder to fix the dihedral was very well timed.....it was not in my mind at the time.!!!!. Anyway all looking good and straight., with dihedrals set.I intend to now build the basic panels for the right wing and do the sheeting and web's later.

I seem to remember that is when l should build in the wash- out on the outer panels.

If l get stuck l will be in touch.

Many thanks again.

Geoff.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Geoff,

 

No problem, I usually check the blog daily.

 

Terry

[rookie jim]

Terry,

ribs and tubes have arrived safely. thank you very much. now i can follow your guidance and get on with the wings .

 

hopefully i can now make some progress.

 

Jim

[Terry Whiting 1]

Jim,

 

No problem, I was only too pleased I could help.  Just take your time.

 

Terry

[Grahamd]

Before this excellent thread gets forgotten about, I'd like to ask a few questions to those who went the electric route?

 

1/ Where did you put your batteries in the end, and did it balance near the point without too much additional lead up front?

 

2/ What motor did you end up using (seen several on here using different setups, perhaps we could get a list) I have one in mind, but always open to discusion (GC XYH50-55 580kv is top of my list) ?

 

3/ based on your motor choice, did you (what size/make) user a 3-bladed prop (I've always used Graupner) ?

 

[rookie jim]

Tery,

did a dry fit using the ribs you very kindly sent . seems to be ok so now i am going to take a deep breath and do it for real this weekend. this is nerve racking stuff!!

 

  in relation to graham's post i woukd be interested in how much it costs to use electric for this model including batteries. mine is 4 stroke but i am interested in moving to electric for some models so a comparison would be useful.

 

 

jim

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Grahamd,

 

In the earlier threads there were two others that went electric.

I did too but designed a completely different approach.

If you care to check Page 12 you will see pictures of my somewhat

radical  method.

 Instead of one 6mm fire wall, I used two 3mm fire walls,

 and  key hole locking the two together.

One locking screw is removed under the cowl which enables the

 cowl to lift, and draw out, just unplug  my BEC extention lead, and

the whole power train is free. Battery change takes a couple of minutes.

 

My  motor is a Torque series 1000w  510kv, (this motor is the same

 weight as a 52 4st)  my  prop KXF 14X6  Red Beech 'E' 

This give me on 5s 630w @ 29 amp. more than enough power.

 

I never use 3 bladed for flying. 

 

Terry       

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Jim,

 

A pall is flying a Puppeteer weight  7.5 lb  at a total cost of  £110

E-Max 800/900w motor £29

Hi Model 60amp ESC   £37

2x  2s (7.4v) Eon-X lite 2500 ma batteries £40 (wired in series)  

 

He is getting 8-10 minute flights, and to date he has had 37 flights

and no problems, and he is using 35meg.

 

Which just goes to show you have not got to pay the earth for

electric.

 

Terry

[Grahamd]

Here's where I am at the moment (only had the plans a few days, long story).

 

Stab done

Elevators and stab skinned/sanded

 

Fin and rudder done

 

And tonight the fuz/crutch (firewall not glued)

 

Should have the formers on tomorrow.

[Allan Bennett]

Posted by Grahamd on 05/06/2010 08:14:58:

Before this excellent thread gets forgotten about, I'd like to ask a few questions to those who went the electric route?

 

1/ Where did you put your batteries in the end, and did it balance near the point without too much additional lead up front?

 

2/ What motor did you end up using (seen several on here using different setups, perhaps we could get a list) I have one in mind, but always open to discusion (GC XYH50-55 580kv is top of my list) ?

 

3/ based on your motor choice, did you (what size/make) user a 3-bladed prop (I've always used Graupner) ?

 

 Here's a picture of my battery bay during construction.  It's designed to fit a 5S A123 pack, which slides in from the top at about a 45 degree angle.  The AXI 2826/12 motor is radial-mounted directly to the front end of the battery bay, and access to the battery is via a hatch installed in the top of the engine cowl.  Jeti Spin 66 speed controller is velcroed to one side of the battery box.

 

I'm using an APC E 12x6 2-blade prop at the moment, drawing about 31 amps.  I plan to use a Master Airscrew 12x6 3-blader (maybe cut down to about 11" when I get some amp readings, though my motor is good for 37A for 60 seconds) eventually. 

 

I've had 4 flights so far, and am still fine-tuning and learning the handling characteristics.  I started with 4.25oz of lead in the front of the cowl to get the c of g as per the plan, but I've removed about 0.25oz of that so far.  Bearing in mind I'm using A123s, I can't see how anyone with LiPos will be able to avoid ballast.  Fine-tuning has been hampered by my use of 6-pin wing-joiner plugs and sockets for the aileron and flap servos, which have been less than successful -- they weren't giving reliable contact, so I've replaced them with conventional servo plugs on leads, which will be connected beneath a small hatch installed in the underside of the first panel of each wing half.  So next flight I'll have more confidence to play with the flaps more than I have done so far.