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Everything posted by Don Fry
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Aileron differential all up & NO down?
Don Fry replied to martin collins 1's topic in All Things Model Flying
I think that is wot they did in 1917. nice photo, what is that mist? On the grass, marsh, wood transition. But back to post. Bloke asked will it fly, can you control it. The answer is yes. What is the BEST, go down the museum, ask the bloke nicely, wagle the stick, so I can measure deflection. Or ask nicely how it’s set up. Not necessarily right I hear, but it’s scale. -
But, most don’t get picked out, as the Mail has been singled out. Now I read it every day. It’s hugely entertaining. As one of its ex editors said, as a compliment, delivering our daily dose of hate.
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Electric twin, some people have no idea!
Don Fry replied to martin collins 1's topic in All Things Model Flying
Naa, stick an 8 inch spike on the center of the steering wheel. Ban drivers seatbelts. Might change drivers attitude to risk. I joke not BTW. -
Aileron differential all up & NO down?
Don Fry replied to martin collins 1's topic in All Things Model Flying
Method of avoiding adverse yaw on biplanes SO THE PILOT CAN BANK AND YANK, NO RUDDER NEEDED. It will fly fine, as long as you can refrain from auto use of rudder in a turn. Otherwise, you have to learn a new skill. -
A pellet burner is such an option, load its hopper, and you can start and stop it on a phone app. Saves all that log storage, cutting wood, lugging it about. I assume you don’t have a love interest with a lumbergill on a Sunday night.
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The Daily Mail is still not a trusted provider of facts by Wikipedia. Fact checking advised
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I reckon, the plan, depending on the version you are using is between 70 to 80 years old. Put the dowels in where it says, don’t reinvent the wheel. Bands, relaxed, are about 80 % of the route over the wing to the band posts. office supply shops sell them, without dog do-da attached.
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All oils and greases have operating temperature ranges. Here we get a problem, does the maker of a servo know this, and a budget servo at that, who works in warmer climates, buying grease from a third party, ditto the provisos. I’m not knocking the servo. Mind, yet another reason to check, then fly.
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Arrr, memories semi correct. Might I gently suggest, when one is digging thine hole, and wish to desist, stop digging. You have misspent your entire life in dodgy areas, as a judge might say.
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Even worse.
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Yea, but one must understand Paul is a Geordie, wot has lived his life in Southern France. Combative by nurture and nature.
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I would therefore be tempted to proceed as my late post, clean as best you can, and apply film over the edge.
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Just read the original post. John, are you saying, clean up the existing finish, de oil it, so it’s not greasy, then iron on a laminating film patch to protect the old failed edge? if so, it would work. The film is now on good surfaces. Not forever perhaps, but it’s good enough for another lease of life.
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As I said, it behaves like Solarfim. What you need to ask, how to best suck oil out of wood, and it’s difficult ( I’ve got an old chopping board, kept going with oil rubbed in, and I use it for all thing, including bread dough, and that is sticky central) have you tried that. I can imagine thin cyno brushed on might get some traction, but a devil to sand flat. Ditto thick, without penetration off the wood.
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Building Li-Ion Battery Pack for Field Charging - Safety Concerns
Don Fry replied to Andy-H's topic in Batteries and Chargers
I’ve got a 4s LiFe pack I soldered up, in a custom built ply case. It powers the winch wot lifts my 1500 kilo boat onto its trailer without sweat. It also powers chargers at the flying field. Simple with a blade fuse. There it gets to be a shared unit. Nice battery. 25Ah, £50 from memory. Good value, 4-8 years ago. -
Is there a gob smacked emoji?
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I use laminating films lot. I find it’s about as sticky as solar film. Nothing enjoys sticking to oil. I would try, toilet paper in the greasy wood, and then iron to hot, and wick the oil out, white spirits painted on, wicked out as above. Tedious. Paint wood with heat set glue, fabric shops sell interliner glue, apply new film.
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The main thing toto, get a fire, get out, leave it alone. As Chris says we are not fire fighters. I can think of at least two fires where I ended up on the investigation where the basic rule was not followed, and there was a pervasive burnt pork smell. Also Chris seems to think having a look at the fire spread. Once, sheltering behind a fire engine ( biggest vehicle in the area) at a garage fire, an oxy acetylene tank took off, bounced off the engine, and sailed away over the steelworks. Leave alone. Just stuff burning. BTW, firefighters will take risks to save life, but an empty shed get a hose on it from a safe distance. Just stuff.
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Welcome, I also plead guilty
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Curiosity, why mains. My naive thought posits, short, fire initiation, blows fuses, no power, fire spreads. Battery unit, fry it it stops, until then it screams, otherwise check the batteries. Next year I do a serious life change, sort new house out, finances, new herb garden. Mrs has made a space grab on the garage, vetoed my use of a bedroom. So a shed beckons. I don’t think she realises how much not Don junk lives in my current workshop, which won’t migrate to the new.
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ED, you waft before the more politically involved on this forum, like a stripper wafting a glittering fan of all colours. Igniting passions.
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Err complex equals a wing, with the cockpit glued to it, with the load bearers placed lower. Accept, I was no beginner, but complex, no. Pretty(ish), yes. But, I also accept, an airframe powered by a horsepower, 850 watts, whether electric or other means, is less affected by wind, turbulence, tougher.
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Slec Balsa Stripper Blade Replacement
Don Fry replied to Bob Field's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
I strop my kitchen knives. They are really good Japanese things, make an error, you don’t feel the cut until it hits bone. I use a piece of leather, strop on the outer face, as worn by the cow, scaling away from the face. What a strop does, it straightens the cutting edge, saving the steel. Otherwise it get ground away in the sharpener. Mind my knives ( one translates from Japanese, cow sword), cost serious money. Don’t think I going to spend time on mass use blades. -
Double the above, from Frank. I built one, on a comeback to the hobby, when it came out. It was stable, aerobatic, does as it is told. I once screwed up, let it get too far away, no means of seeing what I needed, shut the throttle and started to walk in the right direction. It had no damage when recovered. Very simple tough build. Mine met its end, inverted low pass, too low, met the course grinder of the crushed stone runway. conversion to electric, hatch space underneath for the battery. 25 size alternative motor.