Engine Doctor

Yes look on ebay . A seller named Gaviscool sells piston rings for many discontinued engines. They are excellent quality and very well priced . An OS 48 will cost around £12 the last time i was on his site. Ill have a look and pm you later.

The sellers words " its compatible with Nitro and glow fuel" ? He probably doesn't know anything about the hobby . He says its from a house clearance and is just a chancer like so many on ebay. Sad if someone get caught out ☹️

👍I've used them for years and fitted correctly as you say there are no problems. I support the middle loosely just to stop them vibrating and flapping about. Control snakes are my preferred system . Securing ends can be an issue as no glue really fixes the plastic. To overcome this I wrap the ends tightly with Masking tape then seal this wit a thin coat of cyano . when its fitted and in position I then glue the ends to the airframe. and jobs done . Any issues I've ever come across has been due to one or both ends sliding .

Dont forget that petrol contains ethanol and WILL absorb moisture from the air . The longer its left the more it absorbs and eventually you will have water at the bottom of the tank causing poor running and corrosion to any vulnerable parts in the fuel system . Obviously if its a diesel this doesnt apply although even diesel fuel can go off if left for long periods in cars as bacteria can grow blocking the fuel way and especially the fuel filter. Take it for a run and use the fuel . If left standing again replace fuel with shell V Power or BP / Esso Equivalent as this apparrently doesnt contain ethanol.

If you make an eflux tube with the ammount of taper you require it doesnt matter if the end is made to fit the shape of the outlet. I did yhis to a Tomcat model wi5h a single 70mm fan that looked like it had two outlets/ engines . It made no difference and had excellent power. I dare say the theorists will disagree but in practice it works. The model was a " Highend technology F18 Tomcat " from around the late 90's to mid 00's.Eflux tube was made from acetate sheet made into a normal tube with taper then fitted through the elongat3d outlet and fitted to fan in the normal way. The oulet end had to be supported as there was a gap either side . I made an infill to sit insde tge dummy motor outlets to support the tube.

Hi john we used the plastic cup . The foam ones seem to have a bit more of a taper from memory .

Not sure about the formula but a small plastic coffee cup fitted pushed over the back of a 70mm fan and the bottom cut off about 1 inch up works very well. Tried this at our field when a member turned up with a EDF zagi . Running on 4s it didnt have any power to maintain flight . He had left off the inlet flare , or whatever its called off and had no eflux tube. We fitted the inlet flare and thrust improved slightly then tried the coffee cup as a experiment as it was all we had in the club shed . It was pushed on and held in place with some insulating tape . The trust was so improved that flight was maintained at less than half throttle . The coffee cup idea has now been used in a few models .

Yes all bets are definately off judging by the driving displays on our local roads let a.one on our motorways! ! Its inconcievable to me how people can drive in fog , around a tight bend or in heavy rain with associated spray at speed without being able to see a thing let alone consider. braking distance ! Anyway off subject . Give us the answers please 🧐 Shaun beat me to it

Fruit cake with mazipan for me thanks😀 Seriously though looking at most drivers today passing a theory test is forgotten the moment they are given their pass. A bit like schooling these days , students are rauught to pass the exam and not any indepth knowledge of the subject . Learn it parrot fashion and pass . I think ive got them all correct this time , possibly maybe 🤔.

If this is correct ie being locked in in the event of a battery failure then its a serious failing on the part of the manufacture and the agency that controls auto safety DVSA . Its unimaginable that in the case of a fire or crash that a person cannot get out of the car or helpers cannot open the doors to release the occupants . Any system or battery failure should default to being unlocked or at least have easily accessible manual override. If and I stress if , cars are made and sold like this and its not just a faulty vehicle then its a result of de regulation that's going on in all industries to maximise profit for the big companies at the expense of the customer/user. As for car battery construction (normal 12v ) they have for years now been getting more and more fragile . In the majority of cases they dont gradually degrade but just stop working even after a test for voltage all ok they wont deliver any meaningful current. The guarantee on a battery I have found sort of determines its expected life plus a week or two . Like most stuff these day designed to a price with built in obsolescence.

Ah that tends to limit you on props anyway as not many left handed props to choose from these days. Stick with two blade and as suggested and try different makes if you want to increase thrust . Thrust and noise vary considerably with dfferent makes. Ps nice looking model and whinning gearbox must sound great !

I think you will find that the 49 and 61 crankcases are the same extenally so your P&R silencer should fit ok. Seal the join by applying some epoxy to the joint then fit and tighten the strap and allow to set. When you need to remove it just undo strap and give silencer a sharp tap. Jeffwings2 is the Merco officianado and will know for sure.

Two blade for flying 3 and 4 blade props for static display. A geared 61 ! I havent seen one of those gor years now. Does the prop run clockwise or does engine run clockwise ?

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Apply a coat of white first then yellow should cover well and look much brighter.

Hi Dave have you considered making the wing from correx ? Very tough , far tougher than depron. There were some trainers made from it back in the 90's that flew really quite well and were virtually indestructable. We used it for spad combat plane wings and the wings outlasted the drain pipe fuselages !

Swapmeets seem to be shrinking and less well attended than a few years ago. Our Club Medway MFC usually have two a year followed by a quick auction and a fly- in. The last couple of years since covid the attendance has alternated from plenty of sellers and no buyers to plenty of buyers and few sellers? Loads of bargins but no takers ! Even in the club some brilliant bargains are offered through the year and members show little or no interest turn up with a new lump of foam . I love to rummage through stuff to find that elusive part or bits to repair somthing but im a dying breed it seems. The Watford swapmeet was brilliant but judging by what we have to pay to rent a hall for indoor flying its possibly been just to expensive ; plus finding helpers for the day is not easy and big meets need lots of helpers . Horam seems to keep going and hopefully will keep going for mang years.

Vintage style taper for the trailing edges. Square TE can help reduce flutter on faster models but your slow flying vintage model wont be racing around will it ?😉 Square TE on that will just look awful and unfinished.

If its cheap and chearful your looking for then have look around the pound shops . They often sell matt white aerosols that work ok as a primer depending on the topcoat used. Test the finish coat on a test peice as it can split or craze with some paints.

Speak to a car paint factors they should be able to help . Many paint finishes specify different coloured primers to get the required finish and white is often used for bright reds ,yellows and so e metallics. Many of the high build prmers these days are 2k so not an option fir many . All the 1k high build primers i used over the years were either grey or yellow often refered to as spray putty. Normal white cellulose primer is readily available but is mostly a light primer with little or no filling properties. Water based paints are , as far as i know for finishing and not high build . Correct me if you know othewise. They are brilliant for fading in repairs but have very low build and still have to be finished / protected by a clear laquer usually 2k. The high build primer i currently use is a very light biege and is 2k . Beware if you try 2k as it uses isocyanates in hardener with associated health and safety issues paint factors can advise.

Selling a SC AR 180 (30cc) two stroke Glow . Comes in original wooden case with exhaust etc and is in excellent condition. This engine has been stripped cleaned and had new bearings fitted and oiled to protect internals . It could be mistaken for a new engine . see pics . £100 plus postage but would prefer collection PM me if interested.

I've changed in my hobby direction so Selling off a few bits of stuff I've collected over the years . This Aluminium Engine cowling is all Hand made with opening hatches on riveted hinges . Its fitted with a Mills 1.3 Mk 2 Diesel and has a Service receipt from the £.s.d days . The spinner is also hand made and fitted with a silver nylon prop. Engine is fitted with a extended comp screw that doubles as a stand . £200 prefer collection or postage at cost via Royal Mail special delivery Please PM me if interested.

Selling my Pica mustang P51D due to a change in hobby direction. 89 inch span .All new and never flown fully Glassed structure with custom built in exhaust . New DL 50 fitted only run 1 hr on ground to test exhaust and for cooling . All good . All metal geared Hitec servos on surfaces . Air up spring down retracts inc tail wheel with scale oleos on mains and restrictors for scale like movement. Lots of detail. Passion Waggon Nose art (google it )and colour scheme. scale pilot figure and scale-ish cockpit £875 OVNO Obviously collect only from north Kent Pm me if interested

Also a square trailing edge it less likely to flutter than a tapered one , so ive been told.

A definite case of "caveat emptor" when buying a used item. The 120 R is generally a nice engine but yours has obviously been got at . You may be able to get spares direct from Enya ? Theres a lot of differences between the standard 1204c and the 120 R so robbing a standard 120 is I think not an option. Not a lot to be said really as only the perpetrator of the bodge really knows what was done . The cracked case could well be used and sealed with some 24 hr epoxy injected after a thorough cleaning but check all over incase of any distortion or misalignment. Hope you can get it sorted and let all know how you get on. E.D.