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David Ovenden

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Everything posted by David Ovenden

  1. Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 16/02/2018 16:36:15: i guess you will have to use the oracover alternative. shame its a lead more expensive **LINK** As for the metal effect you can try aluminium tape, or that chrome finish fablon stuff. if you give a coat of matt fuel proofer it will dull it down and make it look like tired aluminium. Cheaper here (under £19 @current exchange rate?) but not sure how much postage would be from France? https://www.topmodel.fr/en/product-detail-7342-oratex-antic-2m Edited By David Ovenden on 16/02/2018 20:35:43 Edited By David Ovenden on 16/02/2018 21:06:02
  2. I have a Saito 45 in an old Hawker Tomtit biplane. 52" span. I have used a 12.5 x 5 graupner prop which gave nice scale performance. Now using a 12x5 apc. However, both of these are grey!
  3. I too have been very pleased with price and performance of Zippy Compact lipos from HK.
  4. Given that the carburetter is partially mechanically retained/located where it fits into the inlet pipe "T shaped" aluminium block, I feel that a JB weld repair reinforced by a bracket is very likely to be entirely successful. OK it won't be aesthetically beautiful, but inside the cowl nobody will see the repair.
  5. Posted by Nigel Grant 1 on 05/02/2018 06:41:09: This is a good thread and has created some fun discussion, just like the recent "Death of IC" In fact another good one which would stir some lively debate could be what star signs fly Mode 1 or 2!   Really?? I'd rather be getting on with building or flying models. Edited By David Ovenden on 05/02/2018 09:38:23
  6. I think this could be the video you need. **LINK**
  7. I also bought one last time round. I have to say it has been brilliant and I have used it far more than I imagined I would. Don't know have I managed before. I use it for squaring up cut ends, sanding angles, shaping, smoothing edges etc. etc.
  8. I think there is also a magazine called Fly RC. Seen a few copies in the past.
  9. Thanks for your very kind offer Martin. However, I am too far away to be able to collect. I'm not really sure that indoor flying is my thing at all especially as Spring is not far off now. I may put off any decision until the autumn. Edited By David Ovenden on 26/01/2018 21:55:00
  10. I have been given a small brushless indoor motor and esc. I have some 9g servos available. So I'm looking for a suitable cheap foam indoor model. I have never flown indoors so am not clued up about what's available. The motor is Miniking V3 (95w max) for 2s and gws 8.4 x3 prop and the lightweight esc is 18A. Not into 3D and prefer scale if possible. I've seen some very pricey foam models that don't interest me. Anyone able to recommend something suitable that's cheap but good?
  11. Ian, I'm sure the epoxy will fill any small gaps you might have left. Besides it glues the whole surface of the joiner to the wing box/spar so plenty of glued surface area. On several ARTF kits I've put together over the years the ply joiner was not a tight fit in the wing panels. Once glued up it all becomes very rigid. Alternatively cut the ply slightly over size and sand to a perfect fit?
  12. Posted by Glyn44 on 20/01/2018 12:43:03: I’ve taken the point re fan heaters, but strategically placed might be ok for instant defrosting, with the oil filled rad to take over. Otherwise I’m set, DAB radio for Planet Rock, beautiful lighting, scroll, bench saws, drill press, & of course a kettle (Yorkshire Tea). Next buy is a small hobby size disc cum belt sander. **LINK** Anyone got one, or similar? So off to Argos for the radiator, thanks all, Let’s keep warm. Glyn. Glyn, where to you keep the models then - have you got room for them in the shed with all that other equipment?
  13. Ian, the top surface of the brace appears to be a straight line and so it shouldn't be too hard to make up a copy. Then as long as the two wing halves mate properly at the root ribs with no gapping you know it must have the correct dihedral. Shouldn't be too long a job I imagine. Good luck with getting the model back in the air where it deserves to be! Just out of interest, I modified a Great Planes PT-19 model (80"span) from a one piece wing that was glued up with a solid ply joiner to a 2-piece one with wing joiner tube. It meant a very slight reduction in dihedral angle so as to get the (straight) wing joiner tube completely inside the wing structure. That actually make no noticeable difference to the models flying performance. But it did make the model a whole lot easier to transport about!     Edited By David Ovenden on 20/01/2018 13:00:27 Edited By David Ovenden on 20/01/2018 13:01:15
  14. Ian,  I imagine you have found a copy of the manual. **LINK** In that it has a photo of the wing brace (3 pieces of ply glued together. (See photo below taken from the manual). With that it shouldn't be too hard to make up a cardboard template (trim it until you get a snug fit in the wing sockets) and then use that to cut yourself a ply wing brace.     Edited By David Ovenden on 20/01/2018 12:44:54
  15. David I use the Reaktor charger (actually have 4) from HK and have found them fantastic to use. Simple, reliable and versatile. You could also look at the Antimatter chargers by Charsoon (from Bangood) which seem to be identical to to Reaktor charger but re-badged. I have just bought their mains & or 12vDC 300W charger for £60 delivered. I am very pleased with it and the operation and function are identical to my Reaktor chargers so nothing new to learn!
  16. Another vote for MS Defender.
  17. And I never looked at the website because there isn't a proper link. So still don't know what a magner is!
  18. Lucky my recent Tower Hobby order arrived last week then!
  19. You could try looking at magazine exchange.co.uk They do back copies of all the rc mags and have colour pics of the covers together with a list of contents for each . For example http://www.magazineexchange.co.uk/radio-modeller-magazine-february-1983-issue.html?&cat=0 The cover photos may jog your memory? Edited By David Ovenden on 10/01/2018 21:09:55
  20. Built one of these in the early 80's for 3 channel rc. I used a Fuji 25 schneurle ported 2 stroke glow engine. Wing was built in one piece (incorporating the fus centre section) with ply dihedral braces. Wings were sheeted at the LE with webbing on the spars to form a D box structure. Struts were hinged at the wing and had quick links to connect at the fuselage. Wings were covered in Solarfilm and fuselage in Solartex and paint.Other than that it was built much as the kit. It had plenty of power and flew nicely enough in an "old timer" sort of fashion, but would have been better with reduced dihedral and ailerons as you propose. In the end I sold it on as it wasn't very exciting when compared to my Graupner Middle Stick with its HP40!
  21. I couldn't get it earlier either. Now I can but they have posted an apology regarding website problems. Guess that explains it! See below Important Site Updates We would like to apologise for any difficulties that you might have been experiencing with our website recently. In an attempt to solve these issues we are in the process of moving our website to a new server, this means that we have had to obtain new certificates and this will take a little bit of time. We would like to ask for your patience during this time and would like to reassure you that the website will be back up and running very soon. Sorry for any inconvenience caused. Regards, SRCM Team.
  22. "Bets on a bit of grass from the runway block the pitot up after 2 seconds after this work?!" --------------------------------------- ​Well I can't speak for the Taranis ASI unit, but my JR telemetry unit has worked pretty well and doesn't seem to block up. Provides useful info on relative airspeed. However, I feel that the "delay" in telemetry updates may mean you have to set the warning speed alarm a bit higher than the critical airspeed to allow time for the system to trigger and the pilot to respond?
  23. Robbe was a German company that actually had nothing to do with JR radio. IIRC Robbe were the European distributers for Futaba.
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