Chris Walby

Hi Leccyflyer, you are correct, its an Arrows T33 and Flightline P-38. The P-38 is a weighty model but flies very well and not tried the a spin, full size have unrecoverable spin issue that put the US air force off them. Very sad story as the air force had stopped all spin recovery tests, but the Navy didn't get the memo so their test pilot tried it from 10.000 feet..all the way to the tarmac.

The narrow period of decent weather this week meant that it was worth a visit to the field or think of taking up model boats! Didn't get around to the T33, but one flight each of the Habu and WooHoo + 2 flights of the P38. The idea was to practice full flap landings, but if think two things scuppered my plans! Split flaps with max down only equals about 45 degrees (so not that much drag) and that its such a well sorted model it really does not put up much of a fight, but motors in on the throttle for a just mains touch down. I did try a 1/2 flap and no flap which felt uncomfortable and rather quick in comparison. Still surprised at how different the P38 is with the 2 blade/motor upgrade is compared with the 3 blade/motor set up is.

Hi, I was going to post this and after sitting in the "didn't read the post corner" thought it would be worth while anyway! I have a 600KV motor spare so would like to use it, but some testing might clarify things so here goes Originally it had a 3 blade 12x7 prop which on 4S pulls 42A and 614W, but as 3 blade is not an option let us this as a base. A 2 blade 12x8 on 4S produces 25A and 391W A 2 blade 12x9 on 4S produces 30A and 450W IIRC 12 inch prop might be a bit big (in diameter) for the FW190 + more likely to get broken, but 11X10 (down one on diameter, up one on pitch is approx the same) as 12x9 feels quite pitchy to me and might not suit the model. I can't remember what everyone else is using KV and prop wise, but my current thinking is maiden on the 12x9, then try out the 12x8. If that lot fails then 13x8, but I don't think its that draggy a model. Hope that helps A better option is to go for a 900KV motor....or 8S and a 500KV 🙄

One of the features of low KV motors is that by design they rotate slower than a higher KV motor for the same applied voltage. You can counter this if your motor is rated for a higher voltage so say 6S (two 3S packs in series) but they tend to be more expensive along with the ESC's so not really worth it IMO. Just saying you have a 1100KV motor on 3S and you then fancy fitting a 550KV, well on 3S it will turn roughly half the speed. Not good unless you have a light slow flying model. The alternative is to increase the size of the prop in diameter and possibly in pitch to achieve the same thrust, but normally you would run out of ground clearence with the UC or in our case more likely to break props and it will look odd with a large diameter prop on a FW190! Could go 3 blade but that just means more prop breaking for belly landers PS theoretically higher voltages and lower currents are more efficient, but it comes at a increased cost of components so swings and roundabouts. This is part of the reason Richard has designed the models this size as it hits a seat spot between cost and performance. I'll have tea and then post my motor tests and hopefully that will help! PPS I'll go against the grain as say at 4S a 550KV is too low !

Not quite sure how its intended to hand launch a Mossie, unless Eric comes up with a natty dolly for it + the additional cost of double the drive train. Don't get me wrong as I would have one if it was offered, but I can just see it going Pete Tong as people try and add UC, flaps, bells and whistles and it just gets too heavy to fly well. PS don't ask me how I know, but when they spin they take up a lot of sky to recover, a very stiff cup of tea and new bike clips before the next flight!

Didn't thing Richard was keen on the gull wing from a building perspective? How about a Wildcat, not a problem as it won't have UC although its a bit of a tubby shape (pot calling the kettle!) PS nice video

Hi, I think you are looking to gain too much as items on the shopping list contradict themselves, IMHO Constraints Similar model size to Mk1 Similar construction materials to Mk1 – Foam, balsa & lite ply 4S lipo power 1,000g target, bigger/heavier battery, but you want longer flight time? Duration Increase lipo capacity from 2200mAh to closer to 3000mAh Faster (more thrust) Increase EDF from 50mm to 64mm (on order), well that should reduce the duration if it has a higher wing loading due to weight, unless you are reducing drag, but not sure how that works with increased wing loading? Shorter thrust tube & reduce exit area to 90% FSA - calculated properly this time Faster (less drag) Reduce size of main intakes, no knowledge in this department, but will that actually effect drag as it the sucky bit? Reduce width of nose, pointy nose might save a couple of % yes it will help, but not by much? Thinner but stiffer wings, I get the logic so yes it will fly faster, but it will also have a higher stall speed due to the increased wing loading Manoeuvrability Larger control surfaces &/or greater throws. Yaw control for knife edge flight, etc – rudders? Won't this add weight and drag? Vectored thrust (on order) – for pitch and yaw capers, IMO but I found that VT screwed the fan efficiency, added weight and probably adds overall drag How about a SQ 2a and 2b? Thin wing light weight low drag sports model Retain original wing and load it up with rudder servo, VT IMHO by combining everything it will end up porky with a very narrow flight envelope, but what do I know!

Hi, if the lipo is that big/heavy will it need to be that far forward? Only wondering as I have a smaller lipo and its further back!

Each to their own, but I launch left handed, TX on neck strap and right thumb on the elevator/aileron stick. Throttle hold on top right switch. Throttle up with throttle hold on, then when ready model in left hand, flick throttle hold off and launch with right thumb at the ready to get some input...does not always work, but better than watching it pile in while stabbing myself with a TX stick! Looks to fly well, what's the low/high speed and stall like?

I would not use them for anything that flies! Tested with two DX8 gen 1's on two Lemon 8 channel RX's with exactly the same result (RX's bought at different times). TX and RX bound and passed range check. Tested at the flying field with no model, just RX battery and 3 servos. I then decided to walk across the flying field with the TX while my wife watched the servos moving and about 100 m in a arc around position of the RX it lost signal. I have flown plenty of models on DSM2 and DSMX with both TX's and not had any issues. This was a lightbulb moment as one of the RX's had been in a TN small balsa model that had crashed a few times (had a wicked tip stall) and assumed it was pilot error due to loss of orientation, but the arc of lost signal coincided with the non landing crashes. First point is that once I now I know there is an issue then from a safety perspective I can't use them and secondly I am not prepared to let any model of any value lawn dart itself due to a known issue. Lots of other people with different TX models and RX's have not had issues, but not in my case with two TX's and two RX's

Voltage sag is very apparent with edf's as they are quite high current demand. Simple solution is a higher C rating lipo I like GNB 2200mAh 4S 100C LiPo's as they give plenty of current without the voltage sag, but other high C rating lipos are available. You could parallel two of your 4S2200 together and redo the static test to prove the point around voltage sag! My Fokke Stick uses a 4S3300 at about 120A, but it gets to a point where as you increase the current so the voltage rolls off so I don't actually get any more power as P=VI PS it was a wing left over from a crashed model and was build to do one thing.....go very very fast! PPS - I have a twin EDF that if held at WOT will do 3 min 5 sec and kill the lipo <5% left...don't ask how I know 😞

Log which model and number of flights as in the early days I was more interested in the weather and if it was worth a trip to the field. Now I just use the "how windy" and do I mind having to fix the model approach. But still handy to know if its going to be blowing a gale as I end up just looking at the day's weather and not a forecast if I don't fill the spreadsheet in.

oh here we go again with a completely unanswerable question that will no doubt run and run. Another thread I will block as its a pointless debate. Off to sniff some burnt castor and worry about long leads on my ESC (not).

I would expect the TX manufacturer will give guidance as to when remote satellites should be used? Personally if the RX is tucked in a position where reception will be reduced, large lump of engine is in the way, expensive model (for me) or when doing range checks & flights I get higher that recommended fades on the RX.

Prop and spinner - 2 washers and sorted, might push the boat out and make a a pacer, but got lots to do yet! PS, IMO has to be a APC

Thanks again Richard and no apology needed at all. You have set the expectation that they will be ready in 2024 and I am sure they will be! One British kit in 2023 was paid for and took 5 months to arrive and the same for an engine (paid on delivery, but the model was finished!). And the other factor....I haven't finished the FW190 so I am in a glass house surrounded with china and in no position to say anything!

Apologies as I have only read part the posts. I don't know of any RC aircraft set ups that have fuses anywhere, either on ESC to motor or battery to ESC/RX. Two factors come to mind, firstly additional weight and secondly what are you trying to protect with a fuse as it will be either over or under rated so serves no useful benefit! I have found very very few ESC's that have any form of over load or over temperature protection which its totally contrasted to industrial motor speed controls that normally have a mass of protection measures. Example 12A ESC, so its rated at 12A then use a 12A fuse. 12A fuse will not even start to operate until 1.5 its rating hence >18A will be needed and with that level of current the ESC will be damaged. You could prop it down to 8A, but now it might not fly + you are hauling a load of extra weight (inc oversize motors) for no benefit. Now you get an overload of 12A and the fuse might blow after 20 minutes, well that was helpful! There is of course the possibility of a fuse operating due to start up surge (back off and re-apply throttle) which is not very helpful in mid flight. For the Rapide it appears to me that weight is absolutely critical to it flying well, shape of wings and drag being major factors. PS Although I am not a marine Electrical Engineer, I have heard its standard practice NOT to have fuses on ships (of all sizes) on the rudder controls, the basis is that in the middle of a raging storm hunting around for a spare set of fuses will not avoid the rocks. The rudder either works or not! Other might have a different view 🙂

John (dark horse) turned up with this, which was a bit of a surprise as last week he said he was still trial fitting things! I have been messing around with the motor mount which is now complete, so have dropped back on to the wings. Hopefully progress on the fuselage in the week with the canopy and the tail end.

Try the 3 1/2 hours of reporting a lost model on a Sunday, CAA, BMFA, DoT and to cap it pilot error plus not yet found the model (good thing really as clearly it met the ground without incident!).

Don't have the benefit of tarmac so the small edf's just do great impressions of manic ground squirrels Perhaps there is better elsewhere 😉

Started bright, cool and and the sun was right at the end of the runway with 90 cross wind. Sun went in and it just got colder until it started to rain (a bit). the grass was cut in the week but as cam be seen in the photo the carpark is getting cut up. WooHoo given a load of flights + one of each for the others.

Now another big question? Any suggestions as to pilots for either model, but especially the Fokker Bust either commercially available or anyone know of something that can be 3D printed? Cheers

Any photos would be welcomed, cheers

I gave up EC3 connectors when I found some suppliers make the connection contact pull back and some push through...and I had chucked them all in the same draw! I like the XT series + quite a few batteries come with them as default.

Should you go back to the BMFA/CAA and update the reported lost model notification? Would at least assist with the statistics of lost ...and found models?