TartanMac
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Everything posted by TartanMac
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I have my dad's Saito FA 40. It is an old one but turns a Graupner Super nylon 11x6 (which from my tests is the same load as APC) @ 10,000 rpm on 16% nitro.
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What prop is it turning ? And what rpm do you get. Also does it turn freely without the plug in it ? Or does it feel a little stiff turning round. Had an engine hydraulic, bent the rod. It ran but over heated and put out a lot of black oil.
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Recently I got a Saito 60T for a good price and watching videos of them and looking at the fuel system I decided to take a risk and buy some carbs to try and fit. Unfortunately I think they are too big. Was just wondering if anyone had the inner throat diameter of a 30 four stroke carb ?
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21mm on my ASP 36 and my SC 32.
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👍 Looks the business Jeff well done. W ill be watching out for the V Twin project sounds like a challenge for sure.
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Just wondering people's thoughts on the mini lathes. I was thinking of buying one very soon but I have seen mixed feedback and now I'm not sure if it is worth it. I don't have a place to put a bigger lathe, and they can be a lot more money but if the mini lathes are no good for making model engines then I would rather save the money. I have access to a large lathe but I can't really get there at the same time as the owner and then spend enough time there to learn and get my projects done. So was really considering the mini lathes but if I can't make crankshafts, cylinders, valves and guides so on then I'd rather save the money and just ask someone to make it for me till I get a proper workshop. So can a mini lathe do the Job or should I just forget it till I get a workshop for a bigger one.
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Has anyone had one of those workzone scroll saws before it looks like a great deal very tempting. Edited By TartanMac on 01/10/2018 20:16:01
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From what I have learned on this site I will replace castor with ML70 and EDL oils. Not sure about EDL2 or EDL3 but ML70 and EDL1 seem to be a perfect replacement for castor as they are high viscosity but synthetic. So no carbon residue or guming up. It seems that a low visc oil (like klotz) is not as desirable for a four stroke compared to a high visc oil for ultimate protection. This is the impression I have got on here reading what Jon from Laser engines has posted and others. I did notice that my Chinese engines ran better on supaglow compared to Irvine fuel and I did think it was down to the Irvine stuff being thinner but my car engines seem a little more unstable temp wise on the Klotz oil so it could be that. If I were you and was gonna try synthetic I would go with ML70 or EDL in four strokes.
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I agree with a lot of people saying that some of it is rubbish. However I am going to get mine done at some point but I will be using a specific dna group dedicated to my clan name. Here is a few videos on how they do it and it should show you how a £100 test has a good chance of giving false readings. I seen on YT a news organisations tested twins and they came back with different results and the company said ooohh we will change our algorithms. You really need to be part of a dedicated group for good information. Ancestry DNA don't seem to tell you what test they actually do most say do the 37 marker test which is around £100. Ancestry DNA might only be doing a 12 marker test for all we know. The English guy kinda rattled through the info but he has a lot of good stuff. You might not be able to understand the Scottish accent and the audio is not good on the second one. There is also a link to the nicknames of the specific lines under the main 3 haplogroups **LINK**
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Your engines look absolutely terrific. The 35 and that dual plug 49 look amazing really nice job 👍 great thread this.
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I would be a little concerned about people not reading the instructions too. I suppose if a clunk was supplied in a bag with a warning note they would see it straight away or at least after they come out of the daze from looking at the engine lol. The carb and pump look really neat and plush. I won't be able to get one straight away but the 25cc is on my list for sure.
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11x8 is too much load. Is it an LA, FX, AX, or SF series of O.S ? 10x6 is what I would try before you do anything.
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Quicker build using Cyano?
TartanMac replied to Andy C's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
When building my Uno Wot I tested 2 cyano glues. The cheap stuff that is classed as medium is really brittle and cracked easy it's called bond it industrial adhesive. But the pink thin Zap brand is way way better nowhere near as brittle and I think it is stronger also. I used aliphatic glue but I tacked the sheets down with CA to hold them down instead of using weights so I could just get on with the rest of it. Worked really well. I think using CA is fine just buy a quality brand like Zap. I keep mine in a small beer fridge and before I use it I switch it on and cool the glue. I don't know if it improves the joint on wood but on my rc car tyres if the glue is cool going on it does not fog and seems to give a neater finnish. -
Sounds like an air leak from your last description and agree with Denis it should be dry. My Irvine 40 had similar results. 2,500 rpm is kinda high not for flying but in the bench I would expect around 2,200 with the ability to snap the throttle open with a clean lift off of idle. I should say I have never run an O.S 55AX but from what I've heard it sounds like a good runner and should be able to achieve a lower idle. Above you can see the engine has an idle of 2,400rpm and touches 2,200rpm. When below 2,400rpm I need to creep the throttle open to keep it running and then it rises up in idle. So 2,400 is the safe number but when left to idle it richens up very slightly and on throttling up you can see it is quite dirty and not very crisp at all. But if I lean the mix the engine wants to die on throttling up quickly but will still throttle up just slightly rich after a while of idling and when you pump the throttle it will respond inconsistently. So you have to set it slightly to rich to make up for the air leak. Once I fixed the leak you can see it runs super smooth @ 2,100rpm and will drop below it. It would sit at 1,600 if I could hold the throttle steady. But it is clean on throttling up with quick response even under the power band that seems to be around 8,000 rpm. You can also hear the plug is just on the verge of being too hot for the amount of nitro I'm using as when you take it down below 2,000 it gets a little rough and you can hear the ticking noise. When I used lower nitro it went away and was smoother and when I used a cooler plug the same but the response was lagging just a tad and I think the setup used above is giving best ignition and fuel burn on idle. And keeps the temp up on idle. Maybe you have a similar situation and the rich mix is making the engine knock.
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Good to hear your report on the Wot 4 Pro. I have one new in box got it with the Irvine 39. I was gonna use it with a West mini pipe (speed pipe) with a 10x4 and just scream the nuts off it. I think I will do the mod with the servos in the tail like yours. Looking forward to hearing what you think of the kit version in comparison.
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I bought 4 rings for my Laser 1.50V Twin. It runs very well and they wore in nicely stripped the engine for a leak fix and checked the steel bores and they had cleaned up great after 4 tanks looked very shiny no vertical scratches. Bought 1 for my Enya 1.20FS has loads of compression and starts by bumping it onto compression very easy. (Its actually a bit scary starting it) I also got one for my Enya 41 4C and did notice a rise in compression but it does not run correctly as the liner is worn and was advised by Jon to make an oversized ring for it. So it was not because the new ring was faulty. It did have a tighter ring gap than the original when fitted to the bore. Ideally I would prefer the manufacturers ring but if I was stuck and couldn't get one I would buy one of Gavins without any worries. I hate taking rings off and fitting them on I broke one of my old Laser V Twins and the Enya 1.20 one seemed to be fused to the piston I think it was run on petrol. I broke that one too.I I would recommend them too.
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Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
TartanMac replied to Paul Marsh's topic in All Things Model Flying
Wow Gary your Rizla Special looks amazing 👍👍 -
Ok I built the airframe of my Uno Wot and eventually got round to fiberglassing the wing and fuse something I have never done before. The glass went on fine and after the first coat of resin (Zpoxy) it looked amazing but the weave was still kind of pronounced and so I put a second coat on as thin as I could and this is where I think I messed it up. Too thick and too thin all over the place. I did an elevator on my Super Sportster 40 ARTF but it took a lot of sanding and a lot of coats to get it completely smooth. So is there a filler you guys would recommend to fill in all the pin holes and weave that is exposed. I only painted a thin coat over the wing but in the picture I have a second heavy coat just over the part in the picture it did not fill up the mess so I think I need a filler. I tried 2 model fillers micrex and JP filler and they are not thin enough to fill the holes and weave. I read that the thinner in the aerosol cans will shrink 1 pack fillers which I'm guessing is the stuff you don't mix just apply straight out the tin so kinda lost on what will do the Job. In the photo where the wood is showing there is resin between the top surface and the wood.
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I just sprayed my Super Sportster elevator with Flair Spectrum spray paint 2 days ago. I put 3 light coats around 30-50 mine between each other then left it. 24hrs later it was not really dry and still could smell it a lot so left it. Today after 48hrs I cannot really smell it and it is way harder now so I can touch it. I read after spraying it some painters leave enamel 2-4 weeks before they try to polish the surface. I think I will try wet sanding it today. Here is the instructions on the tin in case they are not on the brush type tins. Edited By TartanMac on 29/04/2018 13:51:59
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