Jesus Cardin

You may add an "artifical" wash out if needed, just raising both ailerons 2-3mm from their original neutral position. I have successfully tested this on a Sperber motor glider which had a tendency to tip stall due to its long tappered wings. Best luck!

I maidened this last weekend my "new" E-Flite Carbon Z T-28 Trojan. I bought it second hand but it sure didn´t have more than 2 or 3 flights..... just me did 5 on Sunday!. It is a total series model I have only added a cheap engine sound simulator from Motion RC.... and it woks beautifully. I am also very satisfied about the model performance, getting a solid 5 minutes flying time with 6S 5.000nAh Li-Po batteries combining scale flying and large vertical aerobatics. Very satisfied with my new model aside the front wheel servo burned just prior to my own first flight; anyway I blocked the servo arm and did 5 flights as above mentioned. I will switch the burn servo for a mini one from Futaba, as their servos never gave up in any of my models! Wish you like for this "Forum´s members new models" thread.

I join to follow your thread, Chris.

Suggested Flying Weight........ 22-33 kg! Sure it doesn´t like a heavy finish! 😃

You have a very decent set up, Scott: R2008SB is also a HV receiver, as well as with S.BUS capability; also S-U300 are up to date servos with modern digital and S.Bus technologies. As well I note you went the four stroke instead of 2 stroke way, so you will finish with a classic wooden trainer very well equipped and not so commonly seen today, in the era of electric foamies. Sure you will enjoy you return!

It is as Paul explains. Instead of Ni-Cd, today standar is Ni-Mh batteries; my preferred brand is ENELOOP an you may find 4 and 5 cells packs for the receiver and servos as well as 5-6 cells packs for the transmitter. Here best option is to comply with the sugested battery from the radio manufacturer: for your FUTABA 8J the suggested batteries are either a 6,0V Ni-MH one or a 6,6V Li-Fe (you may also use 4 x dry cells!), but remember you will need configuring the actual one you choose so as the transmitter low battery alarm works correctly.... Li-Po batteries must be used only when such batteries are specified for the transmitters (not for your 8J!) and in the model, for powering ther eceiver and servos only when you are usin HV (High Voltage) ones. The series FUTABA R6008SB receiver, I assume your set included, is HV compatible and may be powered from a Li-Po but... what about your servos? You must know the FUTABA HV receivers accept power from a 2S Li-Po but they do not regulate the imput voltage to servos and your risk damaging them. I only recommend Li-Po for receivers and servos for large models, otherwise you may perfectly use 4-5 cells Ni-Mh batteries. Best Regards and wellcome back to the hobby, Scott.

Interested in the Laser 70 and/or even the 80.

I am afraid the T8UP is out of the FUTABA service program since many years ago. It is going to be very difficult that any official Futaba repair service will take that transmitter for repair. Sure Perkins does not have spare parts for it as they took over distribution from Ripmax recently, but also Futaba does not supply spares for this radio probably since 7-8 years ago.... Best luck with this!

Better not succeeding binding the receiver than not succeeding flying the Spit like a trainer.....

Thanks a lot of, Graff. Of course, I already knew of that video! I had a friend competing at that event with a Decathlon, as part of the Spanish team. Thanks again for the video.

Congrats on the model! I am a lover of the Bucker planes in general and of the Jungmann and Bestmann models in particular. I own a Modellstudio 1/4 scale kit which I will love building and painting as a semi scale version of the old Krick kit...... love the colours but not the registration code! (Translation note: in Spanish "ECES" reads as "heces", which is "sh"t!) Will thank a lot if you produce a video of the Bucker in flight, Best Regards and Merry Christmas from Spain.

I am rather sure your problem is the plugs. Such small spark plugs and so high fuel oil content tend to oil contaminate the plugs and spark intensity gets lower or even you completely loose some firings. As you have already checked everything else, remove all three sparks and leave for one hour or so submerged in clean gas or even Contact Cleaner or WD-40 and then clean the electrode with an old hard-medium toothbrush. Install and try again and if some cylinder still misfires or stay cool, it is better to replace all three plugs for new ones.

Hey Martin, I still have of those kits untouched! Sorry for your loss due to the ESC error.

Cliff, you DO NOT have too many airframes...... It is you HAVE TOO many wives.... even when you only have one! 😉

I also join following the build thread! I see the Southerner as one of the cuttiest vintage models available.

Similar in quality and flying characteristics to other Vietnamese firms like Black Horse and Seagull Models. At least Seagull Models use genuine Oracover for covering their models! Anyway Phoenix Models have some quite bautiful planes in their catalogue.

I own the Carl Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 RTF version since many years ago. It has been powered by an OS 1.20 Four Stroke, a SAITO 125 and now..... by and OS 1.20AX! Sure the 65 will be marginal and I would suggest going to a .90-1.08 2 stroke or a 1.20 4 stroke for "happy" performance. A plane which deserves restoring and keeping flying as it is a superb model, both aerobatic and very true and safe.

No, it is not too low for Rx plus 4 standar servos. Probably the opposite: in a trainer or sport model current consuption might be arround 300-350mA.

Yes, Adrian, you may move easily your models from your "old" T14SG to a new T16SZ/T16SZi/T18SZ. They all include a transfer automatic program to import T14SG model files into their own modern software. Only care is to have adequate software versions: better here is having both the T14SG and the T18SZ updated to latest software versions. I leave a link to a video showing how easy it is.... Hope it is of help to you.

You may also use acetone. I always use this for all the dried paints in jars and airbrushes.

First of all, Happy New Year 2024 to all you, UK modellers. Then I would like to ask a question: why neither the Focke Wulf nor the Tempest show on Warbirds Replicas website as available now or in the future? Best Regards.

A pair of suggestions regarding all the SAITO gas engines: 1.- For a clean running, without hesitations, you need -contrary to glow engines- to close the high needle as much as you can. If you open even just a few "clicks", be sure the engine will run rich. So very important to keep with the 5% high quality oil in your fuel mixture. At much, just open one single "click" when you get max revolution, but NOT two!. 2.- SAITO says small spark plug must be considered as dependable, and actually they are but I recommend after a day flights to take the plug out and clean it with clean gas or some contacts cleaner spray. Due to the relatively high oil content and the very small plug size, it easily and quickly becomes oiled and the engine will miss explosions when it becomes dirt. I have original SAITO spark plugs with a lot of years and flight still going strong as far as I keep them clean.

This Saturday I maidened with a total of 3 flights my new Freewing 70mm F-16. I am flying this model as preparation for my turbine powered Avonds F-104, which I plan finishing and flying before end of this year........

I also had a busy first Autumn weekend! After several weeks of bad weather here in Madrid with wind and rain, this last was a perfect one with just a light breeze and clear skies. Saturday was an "electric" day flying my late uncle´s Custom Privateer and EC-52 as well as I maidened my Freewing 70mm F-16, totalling 3 successful flight with each one....... Sunday was "Glow" day and I flew both my Seagull Models Gipsy Moth plus my now quite old Carl Goldberg Ultimate, making again 3 flights with each model. Unfortunatelly no photos of these.....

Sorry, Paul but you are wrong: Marutaka was same kits as Royal, in USA, not Pica. Pica was a totally North American different brand, their models being designed and developed by no other one than Mr. Dave Platt himself. By the way, Jon, I also own an untouched 1/5 Spitifre Kit from some years ago, a kit I purchased in Ebay from Switzerland and it is an original Dave Platt Models Mk-XXII Spitifire. Actually a nice and impressive model! Best luck with yours, which we know you have several Spitifres on the bench....