Andy Stephenson

What should the JustGo portal entry look like if the CAA Fliyer ID is valid because mine expires on Feb17th but it just shows as below. There's a whole lot that just isn't clear about the portal. Does this only show if renewing through the BMFA or should they pick up this information from the CAA if renewed directly with them?

The amount of down-thrust depends on two main things. First, the height difference between the main drag of the model i.e. the wings and the thrust line. Second, how much lifting section the aerofoil has. The drag of the wing on a high wing model will tend to pull against the thrust of the motor and the faster you try to pull it through the air the more it will rotate the model upwards. Similarly, the more "lifty" the wing section is, the more it will try to lift with increasing speed. With r/c models having variable throttle, more power than originally designed for and particularly with a floaty vintage model that may have been designed for single channel, you can see how the problem arises. The best trainer I have flown had a symmetrical section which substantially reduced any tendency to "zoom".

When Boddo came to our club to give us a talk, he said designing models is like a disease, he had do one a week.

It likely he put something on social media, isn't this how most idiots get caught these days.

I tried the blade type but the problem is that as soon as the cut goes wrong as it quite often does due to the blade wandering in the grain, you can't use that edge as a reference any longer. I have used a scroll saw but now I use a band saw or proxxon mini table saw. These are expensive options but so is balsa these days.

Trump's answer to Mount Rushmore

I repaired the broken element on my hot air gun simply by interleaving a couple of turns on the spring like element back together across the break. It's worked faultlessly ever since.

Thanks, I hadn't considered Sarik as I thought they only had legacy plans from before the magazine was bought out by the new oners. I guess the plan from Sarik would be printed on better quality paper and possibly without any cut and paste involved.

I was looking for the latest electric version of the Chilli Breeze which I don't think would be on an archive site like the Outerzone.

Is it actually possible to buy just a plan from RCM&E or do you have to order a back issue. In other words, is there a plans service like there used to be. Looking on the RCM&E main website under plans, there doesn't seem any way to actually make a purchase. Looking into any particular design shown there, it takes you into an article about it then at the bottom an invitation to subscribe but no "buy Button"

I've never thought that tank placement was that important. It may have been in the old-days when engines were crude, didn't suck well and were only used in free flight planes that never flew other than straight and level. Have you ever watched someone prop hang a fun-fly model for minutes on end where the tank is hanging inches below the engine, they seem to work just fine.

The original Panic undercarriage was 12g (in tension) at the front and 10g (in compression) at the rear. They had to be soldered by the builder of the kit. As a result many were either made back to front or just badly soldered. They should be rubber band braced for stiffness.

I should never have sold my old HP61 but at the time there were more modern engines coming along like the OS61RF. It would have been perfect for a classic pattern-ship. We may have had this discussion before but now I have resurrected my interest in the Clipper III I built some time ago, the CG on the plan always seemed a bit ludicrous at between 45% and 70%. I have set mine at about 35% because much further back than this the nose leg becomes superfluous, not to mention the effect on elevator sensitivity. In any case, trying to set it any further back than I have, would require a whole lot of tail weight.

I recently had a rare problem with a speed controller in an Aerobax Pirana. Testing it on the bench with the prop off, all was well until I plugged in the battery for another test, it made all the usual start-up tones then no throttle response, nothing else had been changed from when it ran. No smell of burning or any sign of overheating. I made all sorts of elimination tests on it but no joy. I sent it back to the supplier so we'll see what happens.

I think this thread needs a refresh... Here's 3 of my fleet. My trusty Gangster 63 Lite with Irvine 53 Clipper III, yet to fly but will be tested this coming season, could be fast with a YS63 4 stroke and retracts. Duplistar, Hanno Suprastar clone, scaled down to 63" wingspan, this one has been flown but the OS61RF needs some attention before I can get a reliable run. I also built a Curare and have been undecided about the power-plant but have electrified it. My DSM Joker after a refurb now weighs in excess of 8Lb and needs an Irvine 72 and pipe to loft it so we'll see about that one.

A halfway-house between accepting cookies and rejecting them is to have your browser to wipe them every time you close it down but this means you have to accept them each time you view that site. Whether this has any effect whilst being on the web when not having visited that site in your current session IDK. Any techies out there who can confirm this or not. Use Brave browser, because even if you accept cookies it somehow frustrates the system.

If you don't like cookies, use Brave browser, it confuses the sender and apparently sends them off in random directions.

Like the original pop-up I selectively ad blocked it using AdBlocker Ultimate as a Firefox add-on. I'd like to turn off the ad blocker but with this kind of screen-rash I find it necessary on this site.

This won't give you an absolute measurement but if you want a quick way of comparing cell internal resistances in a pack. Posted in another thread... "It's quite often the case when a battery isn't performing in flight, that one cell is going high resistance. One good way of checking for single cell degradation in a multi series pack is to use one of those checkers that you plug the balance lead into. Whilst monitoring the cell voltages run up the motor with a prop using suitable precautions of course, and while under load see which cell(s) are dropping their voltage significantly relative to the rest."

If by editing, the OP means to photoshop or similar, then simply right-click on the picture in the gallery and "save image as" then it will be available on the user's device to do whatever they want with it.

The longer this goes on the more ads that get blocked so it's in management's interest to get it fixed asap.

Brave Browser is good for getting rid of annoyances. I understand it blocks those ads at the beginning and partway through YT videos and sends cookies off in random directions to render them ineffective. It's not the best browser but it's good for some sites.

It wasn't working as far as allowing posts from last night to a few minutes ago. That's been fixed now but not the problem of the irritating pop-up which I solved by ad blocking it. I don't blame other members for boycotting this forum whilst it's still going on if they can't get rid of it.

Back up and running now. Was the site hacked or was it a bad update?

I just selectively ad blocked it, job done!