Eric Robson

Ron, I think it's what the eye wants to see, I bought the Kyosho Spitfire off someone who was giving up flying it had spent most of it's life in a loft and had never been flown. It was the early one and did not have provision for retracts. I did think of fitting them but it meant cutting through the main spar. I find you only see the silencer when in plan view and the wheels are not noticeable all the time, its great fun on an OS 46fx. One of the flyers at the field said it does not look scale with the wheels hanging down, I said it does when its landing. Many years ago before reliable? retracts I built a Pilot kit Fw190 and painted the undercarriage wire, wheels and tyres a very light grey. it looked awful on the ground but in the air against cloud the wheels were barely noticeable. I too love the twin 4 stroke sound but not when one of them goes quiet.

Chris, I would think the only changes would be in the nacelles and the leccy flyers would read through the previous pages for their build. I would think hard about going IC as the cowls are only just over 4" diameter, a lot of engine sticking out (good for cooling) but unsightly plus having to move the bulkhead back quite a way and shoehorn another servo in for the throttle. I am happy to sacrifice a few mins. duration for the ease and reliability of the electric set up. I do prefer IC but not for multi engine set ups.

Hi Ron, I have been using Gorilla off white glue for a while now and thought it OK . I have an old Kyosho Spitfire with fixed U/C one of the blocks on top to anchor the leg came off. I cut a hole in the top of the wing and cleaned it up then stuck it back with Gorilla PVA, I clamped it up and left it over night second landing it came off, only the glue had separated. I re glued it using original Gorilla brown glue and it has been OK since. At the rate you are going the Ju88 will be in primer by next week end.

Just one thing Jonathan, if I was building another P51 I would make the tail wheel fixed as Paul has done.

Flew the Ju88 today with a sky the colour of your 110 , it's forecast for better weather from now on so have a good maiden flight and look out for the yellow bits.

Well I have managed a bit more on the Tempest due to the weather not letting me go flying. After sanding and filling I covered it with brown paper and gave it a coat of primer. More sanding and primer needed , I also fitted the motor I have gone electric as fitting a four stroke needed a lot of modification. I hope to get it in the air soon and see how it goes and if I am not happy with it I will change to glow power next winter or lockdown which ever comes first.

Hi Ron, I find the biggest problem with the grey cammo on the German aircraft is seeing them. We get more grey skies than blue up here, that's why the Ju88 is in desert colours. The other feature which is not easy on the 110 is the exhausts 2 sets up and 2 down, a 3D program for those would be good.

Looking good Ron, do you suffer from insomnia? If the Ju88 is anything to go by you will have an uneventful maiden.

If your weather is anything like ours for the next few days, there will be some more cursing in BE. It is almost midsummer and no decent weather yet, so much for global warming.

Just a short clip of my Ju88 caught on a mobile phone. It is really easy to fly, very stable. A great warbird Richard. 1196620268_VID-20210519-WA00002213.mp4

Again look at the plan Jon. The spine is the backbone along the top of the rear fuselage, the spine is shown in dotted lines that are scallops taken out to reduce weight. Looking at the piece you have the top will have to be shaped also.

I was flying today very warm and calm before 1-o-clock then it went black, got home just as the rain started.

All right for you John, I have no hair to let down. I do fly any time of the day the weather permits me.

It would be nice to power my Brian Taylor Corsair with a modern 30 that would be lost in the cowl. The original had a a Merco 61. But as it will be powered by an 82 fs when finished I will just have to cut a hole in the cowl for the head to stick through.

That is my kind of model , would love one.

My Latest model is an 80" span Seagull Chipmunk it has a Laser 100 and anything above half throttle is well over scale speed. I recon a Laser 80 would pull it.

My latest model, a Seagull Chipmunk powered by a Laser 100, flew for the fist time today with the cowl on. As it was a new engine I had the first 5 flights with the cowl off. The first flight today had the spinner on but starting up for the second flight the spinner nut came loose, it is very awkward to refit and I did not want to loose the screws in the grass. I am more than happy with the Laser engine which has more than enough power for scale flight. Flying with the spinner off probably helped the cooling but it was not a problem on the first flight as I had made a deflector to scoop air in from underneath onto the cylinder head as well as air from the front deflected around the cylinder.

Chris Golds had many designs built using foam covered with brown paper stuck on with PVA.

I have been flying most of the afternoon in sunny North Durham despite the cold N.E. wind off Pat Mc's icebergs.

I have a Perkins Tiger Moth which is 50" span, originally electric powered pre lipo days. I changed to an SC 30 fs. It was underpowered with this set up, which was the recommended motor I have an OS 40 surpass but this would not fit without a lot of cutting away at the front end. It did fly well but loops needed a steep dive to get enough speed to get over the top. The VQ models I have are quite heavy so if the Tiger Moth is built in a similar way I would very much doubt if a 30fs would get it off the ground as it would certainly need a lot of lead to balance it, probably why they suggest a 70fs. The stated weight for the Perkins model is 1.67kg

Hi Martin, if you search My late lamented Seafury in the search panel you will find a build of mine using Depron foamboard and balsa. I scaled the plan x5 from a scale drawing of a 60 powered Seafury. I used the former outlines but changed the construction totally, the formers were enlarged on my printer the fuselage side view was drawn out on wallpaper lining paper, cost about £2 a roll. Depron may be the problem now as it is not easy to find and the places that do sell it are asking more than the current price of balsa. I am going to cover the next model I make by this method with Maker foam, it is relatively cheap at £4 .25 for a sheet 40"x30" it is thicker than depron 3/16" as opposed to the 1/8" depron I covered the Seafury with. Just have to reduce the size of the formers to suit.

I got funny looks when I took a sample of Kyosho Spitfire covering and asked for a match at B&Q . It turned out not very good as I think the gloss surface confused the computer. I did have a match made for olive drab with a matt sample and it turned out perfect. They are very good for matching warbird colours and a 236 ml pot of emulsion costs £3 compared with Humbrol at £3 for 14ml.

First flight of my Warbirds Ju88 was wheels up due to the port wheel catching in the flap lead. I went round again pulled the wheels up and landed as Jon has described, no damage. This may not be the case on a tarmac runway. The offending lead has now been rerouted. I tend to leave gear doors off for normal flying as they can be troublesome, and you don't get a lot of time to admire them when flying, they do look good however hanging down on a slow pass and landing.

The Warbird Replicas are a good choice I have the Spitfire Mustang and Ju88. all fly well on electric but Simon was looking for an ARTF. If I built another Warbirds Mustang I would go IC as I like to fly for over 6-7mins. Simon pipped me with his reply