Futura57

Spooky. It could be the same as my newly acquired biplane which, incidentally, I purchased from a BMFA ad just a couple of days ago, but now deleted. Thanks for the suggestion @RottenRow

On the one hand, I feel I'm being hijacked. On the other hand, perhaps we could reuse this topic for identifying all members' unknown models going forward?

I'm going to need a triple cat bypass before I can get out of bed this morning 😺😺😾

Thatz gotta be fake. Evrywon knows its pigs wot fly innit 😝

Never heard of it! Google is yielding very little: A RCM&E review in 1988 (allegedly), but no details or images. Plus a 2012 topic on this forum with photobucket images which are no longer available. So I can't verify if it is or not. If it is then it really is an obscure old design with little prospect of getting a new cowling. Anyone any thoughts?

I just acquired a Moki 135 powered 72-inch span biplane, 60-inches long. The wings look to be foam veneered and the fuselage sides appear to be lite ply. Tail feathers are pretty solid too. The whole thing feels very robust. I would like to get a cowling, otherwise I will have to fabricate one myself. Anyway, can you identify the model for me? Puffin (the cat) isn't talking to me since his full body shave. Thanks

I'm definitely in the category of multiple builds at various stages on the go in parallel. I won't bore you with the details of every model, but I fly fixed wing and helis, so that compounds the issue for me. I do have a couple of unstarted fixed wing kits in my loft, plus half a dozen helis, mostly scale, in various states of construction. These were mothballed 10 years ago when I moved from a much larger house. Back then I could leave multiple models on the bench and flip between them. As the glue was setting on one model, I would do a bit on another. All have 60 to 90 nitro 2-strokes, some unrun. At this time I have no intention of converting any to electric. Sometimes I get an idea for a design and I put it straight to the top of my build pipeline, then everything else goes on hold. I recently had the urge to purchase a foam EDF requiring barely an hour of assembly and setup, so that slotted in the pipeline line real quick. The weather was cold and wet so I didn't fancy trotting out to the shed. It was assembled on the dining room table. Back in the day, when you could get an ARTF bargain at a show I made even more impulse purchases like this. I currently have 4 builds to finish, plus I bought a built Brian Taylor BF110 last year from a club mate which needs painting and electrics installing. I really should switch attention to helis to prepare a couple for upcoming fly-in events. But hey, the sun is out, the wind is low, I think I will go flying instead. I literally change with the wind 🤣

Maidened my new xfly F22 Raptor EDF today. Two words: Gutless & Disappointing. Not me, the model 🤣 It's nearly 100g heavier than my Strange Quark prototype, has less grunt and speed and only flys for 4 mins versus 4.5 mins on the same 4S 2200 (leaving around 25%). To be fair, I did have the u/c fitted. It is awkward to hold for a hand launch.

FYI: Combined fin and rudder covered in brown paper and sealed ready to paint: weight = 14.5g, area = 220cm2 ==> 660gM2 ballpark That's for 6mm XPS foam with 1/4" med balsa hinge posts (10mm and 20mm wide) and 3/32" sq hard balsa edges with foam sanded to slight profile. I think I've done that correctly. I believe Depron is slightly lighter than XPS foam sheet, though not as nice to sand.

For such a powered model I'm not entirely sure if strong enough Depron tail feathers would save much weight compared to an open balsa structure. I'd be inclined to try a 'solid' Depron (or similar foam) outline, edged with thin balsa for ding resistance. Add more substantial balsa 'posts' at the hinge lines and to give strength and bending stiffness. Don't over do the balsa otherwise you are effectively in-filling the structure with Depron where there was previously thin air, if you follow my meaning. Then cover with brown paper (and PVA) to really ramp up the the torsional and bending stiffness. Cutting lightening holes in the foam would rule out brown paper covering for a more conventional covering material, though I doubt would save much weight. And it may not be as stiff. Brown paper can form a surprisingly stiff edge on a curved leading edge, so thin balsa edging could be omitted if you were striving to save fractions of grammes and you were careful to avoid hangar rash. Here is a picture of the twin fins and rudders for my current EDF model using the foam and brown paper approach. The thicker balsa post on the rudder is because I shall be using a long double sided horn (similar to on a closed loop rudder) to transmit rudder movement on to a vectored thrust unit. Personally, I would happily use this construction for a 52 IC powered model without fear of flutter ruining my day. I'd be happy enough to weigh and measure the areas of my fins to give you an idea.

I certainly wouldn't call FMS and Powerfun EDF units from AliExpress and the like overpriced crap. Exactly the same as from 'UK' sources, but at 2/3 the price, or even less when they are on offer. Delivery times and shipping costs are not too shabby either, sometimes free. It depends what you buy and how discerning you are I guess. Again, for certain items Hobbyking and Banggood are the mutt's nuts. Just my opinion.

My 2700s are too long to fit. I have a single short fat Turnigy 4S 2800 which will fit, but methinks it be too heavy.

I've just got myself the very same. With a 4S 2200 in situ and a moderately heavy receiver right up front, the CG is still 5mm too far back. So 10 or 20g will be needed at the pointy end.

My new model is awaiting inspection, but the lure of a cardboard box is too much for Willow to resist. When she gets hungry I will unbox it 🤪

A little progress today. Made twin fins and rudders from 6mm XPS foam edged with balsa and covered with brown paper. Wider balsa rudder posts will take a double sided horn. Inner horn will join to servo/snake link while outer horn will link to VT unit yaw control. At least, that's the plan.

Here is my Lightning pusher (built Nov 2022) from the Tony Nijhuis plan RCM&E 2008. Despite following the suggested balsa grades and electrics, she came out at 800g balanced with a 3S 2200 lipo (upper recommended is 700g)! I also saved weight by not fitting ailerons due to their reported over sensitivity and the lack of them on the subsequent EDF version. No lie, it took 29 failed hand launches before she finally flew on the 30th. Not to mention a few knocks and repairs in between. Shame, she looked great after covering, but a casualty of war by the time of the first proper flight. The darn thing just kept flipping inverted until enough speed was gained for effective elevon control, by which time the ground kept rising too quickly. The trick, for me, was to tilt the motor so it effectively pushed the tail down just a tiny bit AND to hand launch it like Tessa Sanderson. Once I mastered the javelin launch it was 5 minutes of high adrenalin fun at around 120 mph. Lasted about 30 flights before an elevon servo failure (Tower Pro 9g IIRC). Blue foam canopy.

You're scaring me guys. I have a dozen New Power servos in 9g and 17g sizes, some with metal gears, some not. I have had one faulty on delivery, but otherwise all have worked fine, some for a couple of years now. One or two of the metal geared 17gs are are little noisier than the others. The last faulty servo I had delivered, about a year ago, was one of two std sized Multiplex digital servos. Not what I expected.

I concurrrrrrrrrrrr

I have to agree that brown paper is a great covering material. I've known about it for donkey's years but never seriously considered using it until recently. Since I started using depon and similar foam sheet material for building models, I have found brown paper to be something of a revelation. It works out a few pennies per metre and is readily available. A bit like applying very thick tissue. I use Titebond wood adhesive because it sands really well. Some PVA glues stay rubbery when dry. It is a lighter and significantly cheaper alternative to skinning a foam surface with balsa. And is surprisingly strong. For open structures I am happy using 38 micro matt laminating film.

Bear in mind I am very much making this up as I go along. I made up two servo trays today. The rear most V-shaped tray holds the 9g metal geared elevon servos. This tray is angled downwards about 30 degrees and incorporates little stand-offs to support the snake outers, which curve under the fan unit and exit the rear fuselage sides above the rear wings. The forward tray holds two 17g metal servos for the vectored thrust (VT) pitch and yaw controls. Two snakes will be used for dual rudders with linkages to the VT unit. I may 'close-the-loop' by linking the two rudders also, to be decided. A single snake will be used for VT pitch control. Keeping the servos forward is necessary to mitigate the heavier fan unit, exit tube and VT unit. The 60A ESC is under the right-hand-side of the front servo tray and pokes through a rectangular opening in the side fuselage, and is flush so it is caressed by the main intake airstream. The ESC cables (just visible) should only require short extensions, though their final route is to be decided.

Yep. Thems the ones I use, innit 🤪 Search ZMR lights on AliExpress.

You pay your money and make your choice I guess. I tried a couple, but prefer the tear drop encased ZMRs for convenience and cost. I then use separate component leds for maximum flexibility in location, and run wires where a small integrated board may not fit, such as a pointy nose. 😀 Horses for courses.

I've installed these very bright stick-on leds on four models now. Really helps with orientation in flight. Rechargeable with their own diddy lipo and they last well over an hour. Especially against a grey sky, but still visible on a sunny day, though less so. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGKnUD7 Available from various sellers on AliExpress. As usual with AliExpress, be sure to select the lighting set to get the correct price. I also have a huge stash of these individual 3W leds in various colours. Extremely bright. Just work out the correct high wattage resistor for the power voltage you intend to use and how many leds in your circuit. Great for a nose light. Various lens covers are available too. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQl3WwH Again, with AliExpress, there are many sellers with different cost and shipping fees. Some sell smaller quantities.