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Alan Gorham_

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Everything posted by Alan Gorham_

  1. Think about an ABC glow engine. Aluminium piston in a chrome plated brass liner. Similar expansion rates.... I have an old Saito .30 four stroke of similar vintage and construction to the Enya and it uses a brass exhaust pipe.
  2. I think Donald is confusing this model with the larger Precedent Hi-Boy which was a good flyer and did sell many kits. Andy, you've made a splendid job of the Fly Boy, but, yes it did have a reputation as a tricky flyer. It certainly had a heavy wing loading which didn't help. My first question to you is have you flown rudder/elevator models before? The flying technique is subtly different to flying a model with ailerons and this might be worth checking... Otherwise, assuming your CG is placed at 25% of the wing chord, I would be looking at your wing and tail rigging angles, wing warps and thrustlines.
  3. I hope so too, I have several Flair models (Fokker Dr1, Hannibal, SE5a, Puppeteer, Magnatilla, Legionnaire and Cub) and I'd consider a Fokker D7 or Bristol Fighter in the future.
  4. It looks like the old CMP one that Flair used to distribute. I think a 1.20 four stroke was recommended. Fairly certain it was GRP fuz and built-up wings.
  5. Might want to read this thread first: **LINK** Plus, look at how many UK modelshops that sell online have ANY stock of ANY Flair products at the moment...
  6. I knew it was an Inwoods kit, but my memory failed me on it's name. 50% right...sigh!
  7. Yes you could be right, but Inwoods did make two kits, one shoulder and one low wing. Thinking a bit more could have been called an Innovator. The tail, fuse and canopy look like the Inwoods style anyway.
  8. Seems like they have no UK distributor at present. I think Irvine Engines used to sell them in days past, but they don't exist anymore. You could ask if JTEC will deal direct. I am sure they would.
  9. The picture showing your right-hand tip shows washout. I.E. the incidence of the wing at the tip should be more negative that the incidence at the wing root so that the wing root stalls before the tip. Your post seems to suggest you have washout and washin confused. If you are going to modify the wing panels for washout then you would remove material from the wing underside, not add it. I am surprised that your right wing dropped in the tip stall - however this could be down to the extra drag caused by the washout on the right panel. Personally, I would look at making the wings panels identical. One panel seems warped. From my memories of this model it is designed without any washout. Cambrian sell spare wing sets, but I can understand this might not be your preferred option.
  10. Seems to be a kit here:   http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLAIR-S-E-5-A-MODEL-KIT-Wing-Span-51-1295-mm-/191552102527?hash=item2c9965207f Edited By Alan Gorham_ on 20/08/2015 11:34:35
  11. The Miles is very probably a Miles Hawk Major and judging by the fact a Merco 61 is fitted then I reckon it's from the old RCM&E plan by Mike Whittard as I'm sure his prototype had Merco power. Still available here: **LINK** Although ironically one of the pictues on the my hobby store website shows a Miles Magister....
  12. Posted by reg shaw on 26/05/2015 14:18:39: Alan, the Barracuda was a scratch built blue foam model, complete with retracts and fancy flaps. Didn't get the builders name, know he is an aviation artist from Coventry though. Interesting that the model didn't have any ailerons, but used the inboard flaps as both flaps and ailerons. Hope this helps a snadgers. Ian. Hi Ian Thanks for taking the time to pass that on. Love the unusual and love the Barra in particular. FAA aircraft are sadly undermodelled and that model looks great
  13. Brian Yes, I've got around 10 float fitted models at the moment and some of them fly better than with wheels fitted. I'm hardly doing any flying off land anymore! I flew at the Steamboat museum once about 10 years ago. Love the museum - thought the flying site was "tight" to say the least. Ullswater's a good flying site but has a public footpath running through the pit area. Unusual...
  14. It was a good site Brian and I was lucky enough to enjoy the calm weather. Yes it is a Flair Cub but the floats are scratchbuilt and that pic shows the models first wet landing approach. Flew like a dream with the floats on. Didn't see any big stuff there, as the article shows there were more smaller models there and they were well suited to the weather.
  15. I went in March for the first time, hoping to go again maybe next weekend:
  16. Bit late to the party but I needed a new LCD screen for my old Futaba 9CAP Tx last year. Singapore Hobbies were the only place that came up with a source after extensive googling, so I took the plunge. Haven't regretted it, came quickly and I was emailed when it was sent.
  17. Martin, I think that is the wrong Moki range. There are two brands of engine called Moki. The Moki 135, 180 and 210 are single cylinder glows made in Hungary, while the one you linked to are larger spark/petrols made in Germany. Just Engines used to distribute the glow Mokis in the UK, but your nearest supplier Ray might be Topmodel in France: **LINK**
  18. Well, last Sunday felt spring-like to me and I went float-flying at Ullswater for the first time this year. The sun shone and lambs were out in the fields... Got the Flair Cub wet for the first time:
  19. Barry Read what Martin wrote again (quoted below) and you will see that you are not adding a "little redundancy", instead you are introducing a potential loss of range due to the changed radiation pattern. I think you should consider carefully the implications of making any changes to your transmitting equipment and unless you can be totally satisfied that you know you are going to both be within the law and not compromise your systems reliability then don't change it! Posted by Martyn K on 11/02/2015 17:21:43: 5dB aerial gain will give you about 3.5x range gain - providing the aerial is pointing in the right direction. The gain comes at the expense of loss of an (almost) omnidirectional radiation pattern - ie a radiation pattern that transmits equally in all directions*. This means that you could be controlling a model at perhaps 4km distance but a slight movement of the transmitter and you could lose the signal completely. I don't know where to get the aerial from, but personally, I would stay well clear Martyn * For the pedantic - its not truly omnidirectional - more of a carotid or doughnut shaped radiation pattern with almost nothing being transmitted along the direction of the axis of the aerial
  20. Posted by Steve Jones 2 on 24/01/2015 19:19:10: Both mine fly on homemade blades 6mm thick, 6mm spruce leading edge then 44mm medium balsa - 50mm resultant width. 445mm long and 0.8mmx4mm ply shims Steve Thanks Steve, that's the route I'll go down then.
  21. Hi All To add to the above queries, I'd like some clarification of the recommended rotor dimensions. In the RCM&E article, Rich says that the AJ blades are 450 x 44mm and yet his PDF on blade making gives the dimensions as 450 x 60mm. Then I'm sure I saw a photo in this thread of someone else's blade that was 50mm wide. I've cut my blade blanks as 455 x 60mm but at 60mm wide they look too big, so I thought I'd ask the question before I start shaping them to section. So, what should I be doing? Ta...
  22. Ahhh....my mistake. The Model Magic series was on Channel 4 years after the Model World series and book was on the Beeb. The Sea Rider plan was in the Model World book. So don't rush to buy the Model Magic book for any plans.
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