Frank Skilbeck

Do you know anybody else with a Radiomaster TX that could range check your model/receivers combination to confirm it is your tx.

Bit bigger than our wet site, btw the last landing of my flying boat was deadstick after the ESC packed up...........

Don't beat yourself up too much, at the moment your concentration is focused on flying the plane as you get more stick time, you'll be able to devote more brain power to it's position in the air. I find when instructing at the beginning I have to instruct the student when to make turns adjust throttle etc while he concentrates and flying the plane, but as experience is gained then the flying becomes more natural and focus shifts to positioning the aircraft with respect to the field layout etc.

I think the one in my Mini SE is 20ah whilst the ICE ones 50-70ah

I suppose normally on an IC car you know when the 12v battery is on the way out as it starts to struggle to turn the engine over, so you get it replaced quickly. The EV should give you a warning that the 12v battery voltage is low so you can get it fixed, but it does seem strange that some of the 12v batteries used are falling off a cliff edge. I'm at the point of giving my IC car a decent run every now and again just to make sure the 12v battery is OK as our small BEV is now doing the bulk of our journeys. If I wasn't filling the fuel can up for the field mower on a regular basis I might forget how to use a petrol pump 😁

Just not too slow, or you'll be a bit too close to stalling it 😉

From what I have read EVs use the 12v battery to run all the auxillaries and this is charged from the main battery but only when the car is in run mode, as the battery doesn't have to crank an engine but just actuate the main battery some EVs are fitted with a low capacity battery.

They are already Here, Even if they do need a helping hand occasionally.

Always liked the SE5a, are you planning electric power or glow engine.

Thanks, some good options to look at there

Just tried looking for.some replacement 150mah 1s lipos for a couple of older E-Flite models I have, they seem to be unobtanium, only ones I could find were on Ebay, but from the US. Anybody know of any UK stock.

Yes I've done this, the transfers themselves are fine, but effect on the model will depend on the colour of the underlying surface as it will show through and so what looks great off the printer can disappoint on the model. I put some on a yellow model and they look great, no so good on a dark red model though.

The rotary engine while compact and smooth, was always a bit of a fuel guzzler, early engines could suffer from tip wear but Mazda seemed to crack that a few years back. Mazda claim using the engine as a generator allows it to be run at it's most efficient. The range extender option was offered by BMW in the I3 using a modified motorcycle engine, but was dropped in later models, BMW noted at the time that owners often went for a BEV when they changed.

I've tested a 6s pack in an EDF I've got, model on a 6s 3700 mah lipo pulls over 90amps, on the 6s Molicell this drops to just below 80 amps, they do run hotter than a high C lipo, so make sure you have adequate cooling. Still fly my FMS Hawk OK, only done a few flights over summer, due to the weather preventing us from keeping our patch suitable for EDFs. I bought them off BMFA advert from Nick and made up a configuration that fitted in my model, you'll need to check if they will fit as the pack dimensions will be different from a typical lipo pack. Photo shows my pack against a 6s lipo, the Molicel is quite a bit lighter. Put a couple of 2s packs in my mates large scale (28%) FW190 to power Rx and HV servos and they have been fine in this application

Yes, that could be a problem, but could you use one of the existing bolts, either cylinder head or the exhaust/carb retaining bolts. We've used the multiplex temp dual sensors on my mates Moki 215cc radial to check temps on two cylinders, but these were just pushed between the fins and sort of held in place with a tie wrap a bit further back, so how accurate they were is open to question. We did talk to one of our mates who's into electronics about making one that used infrared sensors, so they could standoff the cylinders, he knocked up a proof of concept prototype using his Frsky gear and got it talking to the transmitter, but then other things got in the way and it didn't go any further.

Paul opened fine for me, but just search for Futaba SBS-01T

Artto have a look at the Powerbox PBS-T250, but you'd need the programming lead to change the operation to Futaba.

David look at it as an opportunity to replace the single aileron servo with one in each wing.........

How about a Mini Astro Hog, plan available Here

Bit of old school training earlier in the week (yes I know, I've told him to route the exhaust away from the model)

ED if you look at UK power consumption it typically peaks at over 35GW during the day and drops to below 25GW at night for around 6 hrs, so thats 60GWh headroom every night, so around 180,000,000 to 240,000,000 miles of additional range every night above the circa 1.4 million electric vehicles on the road at the moment. But yes more generating capacity is required but it's not as great as many say it will be and it's over the next 15 years, by which time EV car owners will probably be paid to feedback in times of peak demand. But heat pumps will also add a demand too. Needs some joined up thinking from the government, so I do share some of your scepticism. Plenty of negative articles on EVs on the internet.

I prefer to do my maidens when there are clubmates at the field, another pair of eyes never goes amiss, and although not needed yet 🤞additional hands if it all goes wrong 😗

It's a lot simpler than some programmable transmitters 😀

BTW I would not recommend leaving an EV on charge on a standard 13amp socket overnight, they are drawing 10 amps continuous and the socket will get warm, if the socket/ wiring is not in perfect condition then it could catch fire. The standard wallbox has additional protection built in and if installed by a competent electrician will not be connected via your consumer unit but wired up with it's own breaker and protection etc and also monitor the total feed to the house and disconnect the car if the total load reaches the household limit.

Yep, do all the above checks plus a failsafe check, surprising how many models turn up at the field with the failsafe not closing the throttle.