Painting Balsa??

[Adrian Flanagan]

After learning to fly on ARTFs, the 'EZE-FAN' has inspired me to build my first 'real' plane. I don't fancy covering it with film so any advice or tips on painting (types of paint, preparation, application...) would be much appreciated.
Many thanks.

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Adrian

It's always tricky if you don't want the balsa to look like balsa! It means sealing the wood somehow before painting and this adds weight. Spray paints are best of course as they avoid brush marks and add a thinner layer. Sure you don't fancy covering with film, it's not a difficult as it looks and it's quick and avoids mess too.

David.

[Chris Dickens]

Covering, no matter what type, does add strength as well as providing a preety finish. A painted balsa model will split and crack along the wood grain with the slightest ding. if you really do not want to cover then you will need to toughen up the surface before you paint. The ideal material would be epoxy or a cheaper easier finish then two or three coats of exterior grade polyurathane varnish, rubbed down well between coats, might suffice you could then use whatever paint you like, but I guarentee that to get a good finish you will add at least twice the weight of a film finish.

[Myron Beaumont]

Sorry but I disagree ( a bit ))
Mix talcum powder with thinned "dope" ie cellulose nitrate & brush it all over a couple of times or more (no need to rub down until you can't see any grain. Then using 250 'ish grade wet & dry do what you want & I recommend tissue stuck with more dope (full strength)as a surface to paint on ie enamel (humbrol etc) if you need it to be fuel-proof

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Sounds horribly messy and time consuming Myron - we've got to get Adrian solarfilming surely?

David.

[Myron Beaumont]

David
Maybe. But It's not time consuming (& who cares if it is )
By-Gum how things change & yes I use do use solarfilm & solartex & nylon ('er indoors's) but I miss the smell of the process as well.The dope that is ! Don't tell me you've never heard of us old b-------s way of covering etc.

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Been there and done 'em Myron but I still think that for an EZE-Fan, solarfilm is the best finish for speed, ease and possibly even cost. Tis up to Adrian of course.

David.

[Evan Pimm 2]

A good dope and tissue finish will always beat a good film finish provided that you use a good paint system to keep the oil out of the wood. In these modern times might I suggest a good two pot paint, applied by your friendly car refinisher, who will enjoy the change of pace, as probably the most efficient way of painting/sealing the model.
Evan.

[Myron Beaumont]

Jetsum
Hay Man You am t'inkin I am not nowin' bout de banana oil ting? It damn make de 'hole ting strong Eh & what de luv'ly finish you am gettin'.!

[Myron Beaumont]

Jutsam
I's bin waitin' for de reply from de flotsamman How is u floatin?
Bye di way I did sum workin' in de Uganda air force "the propellor swingin' man"

[Myron Beaumont]

Hey der mon
I' never laft so much since granmudder caught 'er front in de' mangle .Didn't know dey ad de eatin' class system in de jungle.I was t'inkin 'bout wales .Don't know why !Wot's this tread ting dat no-one like)
Over to you
Grumpy

[Mark Lubbock]

Hi Guys,

Back to the thread, even as someone brought up on the tissue, sanding sealer & dope finish,I have to agree with David, film would be best for a model of this type. Although the trad method would be very satisfying & arguably stronger, it takes a fair amount of skill & patience to acheive a good finish without adding excess weight.
If you really don't like the idea of film (it really is easy though-just read & follow the instructions to the letter)you could also try lightweight glass cloth-now that would be strong & could retain the wood appearance if desired.
The choice of method really depends on how much time & effort you want to put in but all methods are largely dependant on the initial surface preparation-don't expect any finishing method to hide a poor initial finish!

[Adrian Flanagan]

Thanks everybody for your help & advice. This is the first time I've ever posted on a forum...great advice, great laugh, I could get into this!! Think It's time to bite the bullet and order some Solarfilm....anyone got any tips????

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Adrian

It needs a little investment in a heat iron, you can use a small (travel) domestic iron but it needs a smooth shoe - the holes for steam in the base are to be avoided. If you're pretty much 'into' the hobby and mean to go on, then get an iron - you can use it to seal down ARTF coverings so it'll always come in handy and be a useful investment.

The little leaflet you get with a roll of solarfilm or profilm is very good and explains what to do. Have plenty of sharp knife blades too as they blunt so quickly cutting film.

You go through a learning curve with film coverings. Your second model will be better than your first and as your skills develop and you get the 'knack' so to speak, you'll find it a quick and easy way to achieve a really good finish.

David.

[Chris Dickens]

Myron
Just got back to the thread - totally agree that tissue & dope is by far the best way to finish a balsa aiframe prior to painting but I assumed that if Adrian was put off by film covering then he would probably run a mile at the prospect of tissue & dope.
I remember when I was (very) much younger in the late sixties i had just finished an all sheet control line model and I couldn't get the 10 miles to the nearest model shop so I covered it in toilet paper (the soft stuff!) and used flour paste to stick it down with, i then painted it with magnolia emulsion left over from when decorating, diesel fuel didn't seem to affect the paint and the model lasted for ages.
Just proves that you can use most things to cover a sheeet surface.
Chris

[Mark Lubbock]

For many years I used a small domestic iron before buying a proper covering iron & in some instances the domestic one was better especially for large sheet areas & I still use it now-buy the cheapest one you can get & as David says definitely not a steam iron-the more basic the better, they are lighter. The only thing to watch is they tend to overheat on first switching on & take a few minutes to stabilise their temperature. If you are tempted to use the family iron, make sure you clean it afterwards or you won't be popular the next time your mum/other half does the ironing (don't ask me how I know!)

[Danny Fenton]

Adrian, there are some really good instructional videos on the Solarfilm website, I have been using the stuff for years but still managed to pick up some tips on using multiple colors. http://www.solarfilm.co.uk/
You really must at some time have a go with tissue and dope though, the mess and smell can only be aeromodelling LOL anybody in the same building as you will not agree however, anybody else remember peeling dried dope from their fingers for days after a session?
Danny

[Myron Beaumont]

Danny
Do I just !!!
(and I chewed it) Probably why my brain is addled !!
Grumpy

[Peter Miller]

When you buy your Solarfilm buy Supershrink Polyester. It is much nicer than ordinary Solarfilm and you won't burn though it if you use a bit too much heat and it doesn't sag in hot weather
Dope and Tissue is a great way to finish a model but it does take longer and smells. Cellulose is not too good to inhale but at least the body gets rid of it, un like the two part paints which can accumulate in the body.
With time and patience you can get a finish like a Rolls Royce with dope and tissue.

[Andy Butler]

There is some new stuff on the market called Poly-C which is water based, and is excellent over glasscloth. It adds vitually no weight and covers the weave of the cloth in about 5 thin coats ready for painting. And being water based, you can use it indoors. More info at www.poly-c.co.uk.

[Broken Prop]

I have just used Poly C on a model with built up wings and a sheeted fuselage.
It does not shrink the tissue as much as dope and 3 coats give quite a good finish for painting. Dries in about 20 minutes, but is best left overnight. It will take acrylic paints OK.
Quite expensive but a little goes a long way.

[Broken Prop]

I used car spray cans. Not the best finish, I'll agree, but Deawoo Stone Silver is rather nice. :-)

[Peter Miller]

I used to use car spray cans, still do sometimes, the snag is that Tufcote seems to make it wrinkle. I must try Poly-C.
I remember doping and painting a model for the RAF Chamionships while trying to sell the house. Some of the prospective buyers thought it smelt like pear drops. others were not so happy.
Dope isn't a problem to get off fingers, too thin. Now Balsa cement really too some chewing off.
TIP. Acetone (Nail Varnish remover) cleans CA glue off fingers etc. I keep a large bottle to hand. Well, a small bottle, the large bottle is kept outside with the fuel. Acetone is a pret safe solvent apart from being inflammable. We used to be paddling round in the stuff at one place that I worked.