Typhoon builders discussion thread

[Danny Fenton]

CS I am not sure which mini servo to advise you get as there are so many that would fit the bill. Really the only criteria I would look at is the pulling power, as David says 2kg will be enough. Personally on a warbird I tend to use small amounts of travel and use the controls very gently with expo to get the smooth flying that is required. You do not need an expensive fast, digital servo.

I would suggest you look through the pages of somewhere like Sussex Model Centre and pick a mini servo that suits from there. Here is a Futaba mini servo that I think would work http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=21051 Despite SMC advertising it as a mini Futaba label it as a micro, the speed and torque are fine for what you need though.

I must confess I buy lots of my stuff from Hong Kong as the prices are very low and I have had no problems with them.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?catname=All+Servos&idCategory=84&ParentCat=189

Danny

[Walts]

C S,

   I too the same as Danny tend to use a fair bit of stuff from HK ,and have had no problems with anything so far!

 I used these in the wings of my Typhoon, metal gears and 3.8kg/cm torque on 4.8V  so loads of strength to size ratio.

                       http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=3609

Walts.

[Captain Slow]

Cool - thanks for the help folks. Will have to look into the HK thing as I'm spending a small fortune on bits for planes lately!

I've been following your progress Walts - that is one beautifully built and finished plane you have there. All I can hope is that mine is at least recogniseable as a tiffie .

I have most of the fus done and the wings / retracts are in - just have to install servos, add more ply to the dihedrals just to make sure the wings don't clap on the maiden and sheet it. Not too worried about weight as I'm planning on sticking a buig FS in the front (prob fs 81a).

New to this build business but enjoying it (when not pulling hair out). I did a few Keil Kraft as a kid but nothing to shout about. Bitten off more than I could chew would be a fair comment but I am determined that I will finish it! *

Thanks again folks / CS

[Walts]

Thanks for the compliments CS, The weight issue is something you really need to keep an eye on with the short nosed Tiffie. but if you go the film covered route the same as Tony it shouldn't be a problem. I just couldn't resist a full sprayed and panel lined finish on a warbird.....................But now I'm paying for it!!!

Cheers,

  Walts.

[Tony Woodhouse]

this may have been asked before, but with such a long thread, searching could take a long time.

Where can I get a suitable spinner for i.c. engine? 

[Grimreaper]

question for you guys i'm currently building the typhoon wings, and was just wondering when too set the dihedral. ?? in the book it tells you to set the dihedral then glue the wing tips on and shape them. but in doing that the dihedral is then increased ???

any ideas that would be great

[Walts]

Hi guy's,

    Sorry Tony, can't really help with the spinner issue as I built mine  electric and used the ABS spinner. I do remember searching around for an Ali spinner for more nose weight, but couldn't find anything with the right profile, they all seem to be too pointed. I noticed all the YT Typhoons have got pointy spinners fitted to them too, you'd think someone would specialize in scale spinners wouldn't you

Grim,

   You have to set the dihedrial first so that the wing can be sheeted and then the tips glued on and smoothed nicely in to the sheeting. The way I done it is, if you look at the bottom of the wing plan where it shows the dihedrial at 65mm under the tip, square a line down on to the horizontal line at the bottom from directly under the last rib position and measure this. I made it 55mm. You can now set your outer panel to 55mm under the last rib, finish building your wing, and then once your tips are glued on and shaped up you should get 65mm under each tip 

HTH's

Walts.

[Grimreaper]

cheers thanks for that, would it really effect the flying caracterisitics if the dihedral was 70-75mm ??

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Walts]

Totally agree, all our old free flight models used to have excessive dihedrial  to make them more stable to fly them selfs around

 I think I managed to actually get a little less dihedrial under my wing tips some how  still...........that should make it a little more responsive to aileron control.......I hope! we should find out some time this week, fingers crossed!

[Grimreaper]

 thanks guys

[Grimreaper]

has anyone used a 4stroke .61 in there typhoon model????. does anyone think that a .61 4stroke is too small.??? i'll be running one so i hope not i've already purchased it

[Tony Nijhuis]

Try Mick Reeve Models....he does a 4" ali spinner

 Tony

[Grimreaper]

r the oleo legs measured 140mm from the pivoting point to the center of the wheel??. i plan on making pneumatic retracts, ( or attempting too anyway )...............................i had another question but i cant think of it now post it later thanks guys.

[Bertrand CHOUPIN]

Hello,

I've juste received the wood pack - with correct size plan . I'm surprised that the ribs are all... ply! The real thing from Hawker, the model from RCM&E Ironworks? I'm a bit afraid of the final weight...

Also, the moldings were missing. Are they to arrive in another package? Because I guess "plus mouldings" means mouldings included, in the price at least if not in the package I received... Thanks in advance for your answer.

 Best regards from France (nobody's perfect),

Bertrand

[Grimreaper]

that's the other question  i was going to ask. i found 90deg pneumatic retracts, is this enough throw for the gear ????

[Michael Graff]

No the retract angle is a bit more like 95 degree. I found it out the hard way

[Michael Graff]

I have made the maiden on my Tiffie now, and what a plane! I was a little concerned about the weight. My total weight ended at 4150 grammes! A "bit" more than stated in the article. After I mailed Tony I was to know that his prototype actually weighed 3550 g balanced. The wing loading on my is 100g/dm2 wich I consider quite normal on this type of model. I have a Saito 80 with a 14x8 prop on it, wich gives it the necessary urge, to say the least. I placed the C of G at 110 mm with the wheels retracted and that is a very good placement. It is a very pleasing model to fly and I didn´t have to make any trim changes at all! By the way, I covered it with SIlver-film and painted it with Prymol-primer and Vallejo Airbrush-colours and used 2-pack matt clearcoat to top it off. I will use it in our national class "sportscale" here in Sweden on the 28-29 of June and see how it fares there.

Here is a few pics of it:

[Walts]

Michael,

         That is one beautiful Typhoon you have built there!!!

 I have decided to rebuild mine after it crashed on it's maiden, I had a whole host of problems, not least being very over weight. Mine actually flew at 1.1lb heavier than yours, which I'm hoping to lose in the rebuild. The damage was quite extensive and I will need a complete new fus and left wing panel.  I intend to try and build it quite a bit lighter this time! One of the things I'm doing away with is the inset panel lines on the fus as they require quite a build up of primer to achieve. How did you do such a fantastic job of the panel lines on a film covered model.............They really look quite superb! Also did you lengthen the nose on your model to help with the C of G and motor fit? and was the 110mm from the root of the wing next to the fus? I set mine at 100mm at this position and it needed quite a bit of weight in the nose to achieve this.

I look forward to your replies, and once again what a superb model

Walts. 

[Michael Graff]

Thanks for the kudos Walts, it is very nice to get some compliments. Sorry to hear about you maiden-flight, I hope you get more success after the rebuild.

On to the questions; The panel lines is actually made with a dull lead pencil (kind of engraving), if done right it makes a nice shallow line that is more defined during the weathering. The nose is as per the original and I had to make an inset box to clear the carb and intake. I measured the C of G at the root next to the fuse with the wheels retracted, wich actually makes quite a difference, the C of G with the wheels extended is 105 mm, a weight-transfer of 5 mm! With the C of G at 110 mm it is not overly sensitive on the elevator and gets a nice sit in the landing configuration. Regarding the weight, I made the fin hollowed and the rudder built up from 1,5 mm balsa, all in the name of lightness. And I still ended up 600 g heavier than Tony´s. That man builds LIGHT! Oh, and by the way, the only thing remaining is to put on the exhausts.

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Awesome Michael, well done sir.

[Grimreaper]

whats the best way too prep balsa before painting???. and in regards too the retracts robarts 90deg 510rs, can they be modifidy to retracts too 96deg?????.

[Michael Graff]

Isn´t Unitracts retracts adjustable? The Spitfire units would otherwise do the job.

[Tony Nijhuis]

Well done again Michael........

Ian.....thinking about it, that extra pound of weight shouldn't have made that much difference....the wing loading should have be able to take it. One thing I noticed on my prototype when flying around slowly almost on the stall and then 'banging' the throttle (ESC) open quickly, the nose would pitch down and slightly pull to the left. With the additional power you had availiable was it more noticable on your model?

Tony 

   

[Walts]

Well, It went in screaming full bore in a left hand bank, So probably yes  I think you may have a valid point which you mentioned to me re the side thrust, I had some, but probably not enough. I picked a very windy day to fly on too as I was worried about the weight of the model, so that probably didn't help with my controlling it either! But it defo had left hand & nose down tendencies through out the 2 1/2min flight. Michael mentioned setting the CofG at 110mm, this would certainly allow me to remove some weight from the nose..............What do you think???  I still intend to rebuild the model as light as possible though.............although I don't think I'll go down the route of lengthening the nose, it just won't look right.

Best get myself a new cowl & spinner ordered, I'm going to need them soon

Cheers,

Walts.