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Parkzone Stinson Reliant


Paddy Fidling
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Nice review of the Stinson by Stuart.
 
Does anyone have any issues with the landing gear? Does not seem to matter whether I land like the preverbial light as a feather, one side, and one side only, bends and either needs a bit of bending back or the spat cover pops off its seating and needs to be taken off and put back on again. Bit of a pain really.
 
I'm thinking that on one side the aluminium strut must be a bit weaker than the other, so I've ordered a spare to see if that cures it.
 
Apart form that I love the way it looks and flys. I've had mine flying slow with full rudder and opposite aileron to keep the wings level without a hint of a stall.
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  • 1 year later...
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I got one yesterday for my 40th.. Maidened it today and it's lovely...

For me, it's a perfect replacement for my 'stooge' which recently met tarmac in a violent manner..!!

It was a close call between the F4F Wildcat or this. The Wildcat looks fantastic in the air, but belly landing doesn't do it for me.. Thats called an accident in real life, and I prefer to do it properly, with wheels... I checked Tube for DIY retract installs, but they were a bit complicated for a small foamie, imho..

OUT THE BOX:

It's the first EPO or 'packing-foam' plane i've owned, i'm used to Depron, and it seems awfully prone to rash, compared to Depron, so for that reason, just in case, i'm gonna PVA-Glass the LE and tips, as the gravel drive I use will eat EPO at a rate of 4in a foot..!!

It's 'what I call' Stand-off scale.. Obviously a foamie close up, but 6ft away, it looks fab.. The dummy radial is nice. In time i'll paint that up a bit I think..

The legs are way stronger than I expected, with big wheels under those lovely spats. I'm well chuffed with this bit, as my runway is rather bumpy.. !!

It's a shame the side windows are stickers, but I didn't notice once airborne.. I may cut them out in time, for the camera, but with frames to retain structural integrity

Deffo add lights too.. A Stooge like this really suits small details like that..

The wing struts come with the option of obvious 'R' pins (RC car body) or 'L' pins to hold them on, depending on wether you need a quick n easy removal

BUILDING:

Went together in 10's on minutes.. It was only waiting for the glue to dry on the flap servo, that stopped flying last nite.. (The slot was bigger than my 9g servo, so I packed it with wood, hence the glue)

6 screws for the legs, push-fit n taped H-stab plus 2 screws in rudder cover plate, and finally the two wing screws, job done... Couldn't be easier for something that looks this good..

RE the flaps... Everything BUT the servo is included (linkages n arms all pre-installed).. Some might moan, but for £135 BNF with a battery, i'm not..

I thought it was supposed to come with an ar500, but i've got a 600.. Bonus..

FLYING:

Mine needed 4 clicks of UP for level flight, but i'd already moved the elev from the outmost hole, in one, so the 4 clicks was probably that.. I re-set the clevis after the maiden, and now she's level on neutral trim..

My first guess of 25% elev to flap mix was too much, but 18% is seamless, altho, I don't think the flaps are moving enuf to effect the plane much, so i'll experimant with that, and may change the 18% accordingly..

All control horns are utilising the outermost hole.. I moved the Elev in one, before the maiden, and after seeing how hard it was to roll, I also moved the Ailerons in one too, for the 2nd flight. Only the rudder remains on the outer, which is fine in flight, but the ground turning cirle is too large, so i'm gonna move that in two holes and Expo it..

I have set up DR n Expo, but haven't used low rates yet, as it's quite docile...

A 7min flight, about 20% full throttle, used 763mA from the supplied 1800, so 10min flights should be more than possible, even more if not nailing it..

Overall, 3 flights in and i'm really chuffed with it.. As I said above, I got it as a hack, and it fits that bill perficly..

Luv

Chrisie.. xx

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Oh yeah... £134.99 from Modemaniacs (collected).. I was only planning to spend £100 and get the PNP, but you can't buy a Speccy Rx AND an 1800 3s for £35, so I got the BNF instead...

As an added bonus, it weights 1.2Kg so it's heavy enuf for a BMFA test. Previously my heaviest plane was my Eflite Extra 480, which is just under the 1Kg imit, at 960g..

Seems daft that I have 8 other planes that I regularly throw about the sky, but none are valid for a test.. Wake up BMFA, lets have a Sub-1Kg class...

(If the BMFA HAVE allowed lighter planes since I last looked into it, I apologise)

Luv

Chrisie.. xx

Edited By Cyclicscooby on 03/09/2012 00:17:01

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I bought one of these a few weeks back. I am still a learner at the piloting side of things, I have done quite a few buddy box flights with the club trainer and a few with my Hanger 9 Fokker DVII, however the latter is too good for me to want to risk it too much until I have a bit more experience. So I was looking for something a bit smaller that I could fly in the local park. Actually I ended up buying two planes, an Ember indoor flyer that I can fly in the small park next door when the weather is dead calm, and the Stinson, which I can fly on a bigger sports field not too far away. The Stinson has proved very good for me at my current level of "expertise". I fitted the flaps to mine, this is quite handy since the sports field is not quite as well mown as the club strip so getting the speed down a bit more is helpful. It still tends to nose over at the end of the run, which it did not do on the club strip. There is a trim change when the flaps go down but I have not tried to take it out with a mix, it is quite manageable. (I'm using a Spektrum DX8 so could do quite a lot of mixing if I wanted to.) I have the flaps set up with two positions, I tend to put them down part way on the last downwind leg and then all the way once I am on finals. I made them go down slowly so that the trim change does not happen suddenly

So what can I say...it seems to be quite forgiving so far...I'm not using rudder in the turns although I possibly should be. I have looped it and deliberately stalled it, haven't tried a spin yet. The stall is as someone said quite definite and it will drop a wing, but recovers nicely too. I can get a 12 minute flight and use only about 1000mAh from an 1800mAh battery. That is with most of the flight being at around half throttle, which is all that she wants for cruising around.

The guys in hte club say this one seems fly better than a couple of others that are around, I don't know if there is anything in that. However one guy thought the wing section looked a bit thicker than the others, so maybe they have modified the design a bit. I don't know, but anyway she goes well and I am pleased with her. I feel like I can actually fly a radio controlled plane now, even if I am not quite ready yet for something like an SR71 with twin turbines

John

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Sounds like you're doing it all the right way John... Don't be tempted to nail the H9, thats what foamies are for... No-stress flying..

RE - Tip stall..

On the maiden, I got some height, dropped the throttle and gave it a bit of up, but it carried on, so I killed the throttle, and all I managed was a high sink rate on full UP..!! No or very little aileron required for perfectly level wings... ?! Am I not testing properly, or is mine OK..??

Luv

Chrisie.. xx

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I found out the hard way about 'tip stalling' last night..

4th flight, low circuits, seeing how slow it would go, flaps down.. I turned, I thought above the stall, and on reflaction, maybe a bit hard, and the wing dropped.. I was only 10ft or so high, I briefly tried powering out, but there wasn't room...

Annoyingly, I was only going to run 2 packs, then strip it down for a bit of scale detail and, more importantly, to glass the LE

The wing 'sheered' LE to 2/3 back and TE to 1/3 up. It was only the febble centre spar that stopped it completely breaking..

crash 01 severed wing

Not the end of the world, as the wing tips n LE are OK...

So, simple fix, I've added 2 x 3mm CF spars..

crash 02 new cf spars

Countersunk and epoxied in, plus poxy in the tear.. I'll cover them with FG tape when the glue has dried.. They run out to the strut mounts, so the wing should be alot stiffer upto this point now..

The cowl survived, but some of the black paint on the radial flaked off, but this is summut I was going to paint up anyway...

All in all, a lesson in tip stalling, and an excuse to take a knife to it and add strength...

Back soon, with more detail and smoother flying..

Luv

Chrisie.. xx

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  • 4 months later...

Sorry about the delay - distracted by one of my favourite programmes, 'Highland Rescue'teeth 2

I thought you were demonstrating the alpha-male trait of R'ingTFM only if all else fails! wink 2

Looking at page 10 of the manual (which I've downloaded) and assuming there's a reasonable amount of friction with the tailplane in place, I'd place the model upright and position the tailplane all square by measurement ( usually go to the wingtips or a central point on the nose).

Once you're happy it's square, turn the model over carefully and make a faint pencil mark along the edge of the plastic moulding under the tailplane (or insert a couple of pins hard against the moulding) to act as confirmation nothing has moved.

You can then fix the tape in place happy that all is in the right place.

Being a belt and braces type, I reckon a spot of cyano would add to its security, if you're not convinced by the tapethumbs up

Pete

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