simon burch Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 I really miss that flying field Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 Simon, Most of the members manage to miss it completely on a fairly regular basis! tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 ......and wood has actually been cut and glued together! The bottom wing skins have been edge-joined, and marked up with the rib and spar positions. The tailplane has a 1/8 stripwood core, and is veneered top and bottom with 1/16 sheet. I thought I'd better check if there's enough room for the motor and cell pack. Now I need to visit the model shop to get some nice hard 1/4 sheet for the spars... tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Looking good Tim....my ASP32 will go in this one very nicely !!! I did wonder if all sheet wings might be an option.....as Tony Nijhuis did with his Midget Mustang/Cosmic Wind a year or three back...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Hi Tim. love your practical way of finding the CoG, I like it. One Question I think I have asked before, that is wing incidence. I see from the glider that the wings and tail seem to be at zero incidence. Is this the way to go with OD models, then fly the glider to see if any alterations are needed ? . Or is it far more complicated than that. Cheers FB3Edited By fly boy3 on 13/05/2011 20:42:51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted May 14, 2011 Author Share Posted May 14, 2011 Steve, I don't think there'd be any problem with using, say, 3/8 or 1/2 sheet for the wings. I recall that Nige Hawes 54" Tucano (the one that crossed the English Channel) also had a solid wing. Might stand up to the vibration and stresses of a retro glo-motor too! FB3, you're right about the tail incidence being set at 0°, but the wing on both the chuckie and the full-size model are set at +1°. If there'e no built-in wing incidence, then I've usually found that I've needed to dial in some up trim on the elevator. Anyway, spars and ribs were added to the wing panels last night and this morning. We had a meeting of the Steering Committee of the Ruling Co-operative this morning (over coffee and biscuits) and decided that, as drawn, the aft end of the fuselage looked a bit tubby and shapeless as it was. So out came the eraser and crayons again... Any improvement? tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Thanks Tim for wing incidence inormation, and yes, the slimmer fuz. back end looks far better IMHO. Cheers FB3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 I think your taiplane needs to be a little higher.ie -a higher fin. Think of the change in fuselage section & the effect of the "cockpit "on the airflow at a steepish angle of attack . Although nothing like it ,it reminds me of the problems that the Gloster Javelin had.IMHO Myron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Hi Tim , Sorry to put the cat among the pigeons but it looked fine as it was . And if we are going for speed , in my experience we need control surface to be large with very small amount of movement to keep the drag down . As opposed to small surfaces with large movement which does cause drag and slows the plane down . Harder to set-up and no slop allowed . And another tip Wax .Just like surfers wax there board before surfing to go faster , i find waxing the plane before flights with car polish helps ...........but only if you need the edge . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Steven I must agree about large suraces with small movement of course .My boys in Cornwall wax their boards on top only for feet grip not speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 Myron! Welcome back to our resident curmudgeon! I hear what you're saying about the fin height - the tailplane possibly being masked at high AoA figures. I think I'll stick with it though and see what happens. To make any noticable difference would mean quite a hike in the height of the fin, I'm guessing. Stephen, we're going all out for speed here. I just something a bit nippier than my usual cartoon scale plodders, that's all. To accomodate the sweep of the wing, I've made the dihedral braces from 1.2mm aluminium sheet (with a slight bend in the middle), epoxied to the fronts of the spars. There's 20mm of dihedral under each wing tip. Clamps removed. Then I added the mounts for the aileron servos. Overall view. Edited By Tim Hooper on 15/05/2011 09:38:47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 TimA beautiful build to your usual high standard. An interesting dihedral brace.Personally I am a bit dubious about mixing aluminium and balsa as both their strength and Young's modulus are so different, I am sure your solution will be plenty strong enough but if the balsa spar itself is adequate why not join it with balsa as well, but then that just me being fanatical about weight again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Yes Simon i share your reservations ,Alli and epoxy don't seem to be good mates.But as there is plenty of contact surface area it should be OK. Tom.Edited By tom wright 2 on 15/05/2011 17:00:13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josip Vrandecic -Mes Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Hi Tim ,in these modern times ,you're really refreshing....just go ahead... Cheers Jo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 technically, and theoretically, aluminium does not glue very well to wood. I was informed of this some time back when I had planned to use an aluminium brace on a large ( 72" ) wing centre section joint I had created on a particular model, in order to fit it in the car.Unfortunately, the model was totalled early in life, and upon recovering the significant wreckage, guess which joint was the only one still intact I had roughened it up well with a very coarse permagrit plate, and ensured it was spotlessly clean and wiped with Iso pro alchohol before the epoxy was applied. I'm sure Tim's meticulous attention to detail will have been deployed here also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bowker Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Nice design Mr Hooper, I look forward to seeing more on this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 HI Gents! Youngs Modulus? I think I had one of their albums back in the 80's...... As Timbo suggested, I roughened up the brace with a file before installation. As an aside, my Bristol Freighter features ali braces too, and it's still flying after 6 years service. So we'll see! tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Very nice Tim .Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Now this looks so 'right' that it should fly perfectly. Not enough forward sweep to cause any aileron reversal problems from flexing. Its very common to epoxy aluminium to wood (especially in microlites) and the alloy is surface etched. If you cant do this then roughen it and degrease with acetone is just about as good - just not certified by the CAA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 Thanks Wolfie, that's very reassuring! A bit more progress today. Now that the wings are skinned top and bottom, it was time to cut the ailerons free. I've also been hacking at the wing tips.... This evening I set to work on the fuselage sides. tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Speed and quality in action Tim .It was a chuck glider a few days ago LOL.Edited By tom wright 2 on 18/05/2011 21:37:55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 Not much speed over the last fews days, Tom. I had a few repairs to make to other models.......Anyway, some heavy-duty plywood cutting today as F1, 2 and 3 took shape (along with the wing and u/c mounts). F1, 2 and 3. Some things just never change.... F2 and 3 get acquainted with the fuselage side. tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 I've joined the inverted fuselage sides together over a drawn centreline, and added the ply wing mounts (together with a little balsa reinforcement) tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted May 24, 2011 Author Share Posted May 24, 2011 Now that the glue is dry, I've lifted the fuselage from the board and turned it right-sides up! tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 seems nice and easy to build looks goodEdited By Rusty on 26/05/2011 01:00:47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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