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Blackburn B2 - a 30's bipe with a whole lot of shiny bits!


Tim Hooper
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Looks like the coming winter's project has finally chosen itself!
 
A few weeks back we journeyed down to Old Warden to have a peek at the rather photogenic Blackburn B2 - resplendent with silver doped wings, a polished aluminium fuselage and light blue struttery. Looks absolutely wonderful on the ground - and even better in the air!
 
So this 79 year old trainer still gets to loop and roll for the benefit of the watching crowd.....
 
So I was able to get some nice detail shots as it awaited its turn to fly...
 
.
.....as well some overall views....
 

 
 

Looks like the die is cast then!

tim
 

Edited By Tim Hooper on 08/10/2011 20:22:38

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A word in the right ear on the scale-biased forums saw several 3-views arrive in my inbox in short order, the best one being this one by Dennis Bryant.
 

So out came the crayons and calculator, and away we go!

The upper and lower wings are virtually identical, although only the lower surfaces are fitted with ailerons.
 
Profili software generated a nice 12% Clarke aerofoil, and I've drawn in the spars etc.
 
The tailplane is set to be made out of 1/4" stripwood with 1/8 capstrips to give it some thickness.
 
As soon as I've roughed out the spars, I'll take a look at that deceptively curvaceous fuselage!
 
tim
 

Edited By Tim Hooper on 08/10/2011 20:43:08

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many on here know i work with one of the best of the ARTF importers, but its guys like you that make this hobby for me, going to look in on this, and look forward to watch it grow from creation, to its first flight, can i ask, what are you going to do about that highly polished ally? litho? there was a lot on ebay this week
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Alan,
 
Thanks for the encouragement! The plan is to build the fuselage from balsa sheet, and then tissue and dope it to provide a suitable base for a layer of Flair Aluclad. This is the self-adhesive film I used on the cowl area of the Cygnet.
 

It's a very malleable material, and can conform to gentle compound curves with a simple burnishing. Luckily the B2's fuselage is multi-panelled, so I'll be able to apply it in quite small sections - although I will have to apply it after those oh-so-prominent strakes have been added. Mind you, first I have to decide on the actual fuselage structure itself!

tim
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Tim,
 
To me a tisseu and dope finish would be to soft and you will have easily dents during transport on the model specialy with such a big surface of alu finish.
I would use a 25gr glass finish on my models which make it a little less vulnerable.
Well we are still a long way from there but always good to take a look on the options.
 
Ton
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Posted by Ton van Munsteren on 09/10/2011 12:15:52:

I would use a 25gr glass finish on my models which make it a little less vulnerable.
Well we are still a long way from there but always good to take a look on the options.
 
Ton
 
 
Good thought Ton!
 
I do have a sheet of 25g cloth squirrelled away in drawer, but I'd go for WBPU as a resin instead of epoxy. Mind you, the weave would still need a fair bit of filling first, wouldn't it?
 
Steve, Nylon stockings? You should be ashamed of yourself!
 
tim
 
 
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Tim,
 
Iam also using PU in stead of epoxy and that works just nice. Iam using a thin brush to apply the PU in about 3 layers very thin and good brushed out so there is no shinny surface shown when brushing. Its about the same as with tisseu use to much and the paper will start to float and all the PU will be sucked in the wood and is of no use for the glass and makes it more heavy. The only thing I use the glass for is to make the surface tough nothing else.
 
Ton
 
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Ton,
 
I think the trick with WBPU is to apply a couple of thin coats of dope to the bare wood first to seal it, and prevent it soaking up too much WBPU.
 
I've also been directed to Mick Reeves own site. He sells ali sheet at far cheaper prices than the Flair product..
 
Danny, You know me too well it seems........
 
tim
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More scribbling has seen the fuselage sort of faintly roughed out.
 
More detailed is the fin (tiny) and rudder (enormous....);
 
 
The fiddly part starts with trying to work out the fuselage cross-sections. I'm opting to use generously thick balsa for the sides and turtle deck, and then sand to an appropriate shape afterwards.
 

 
tim
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Tim, if you drop me your address I can send you a corner of Mick Reeves self adhesive aluminium sheet if you want to look at it before you buy.
 
I was going to suggest it but saw someone beat me to it. I remember when I used it (can't remember on what) I thought it was a bit fragile.
 
I would be interested in knowing some of those scale based forums you mentioned- but better stick them in the PM too!!
 
I will leave everyone else to praise your building skills- I think you have a great talent for picking interesting subjects. (That sounds like an insult, but it is meant as a complement!)
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Hi tim ,
 
looks like another winner to me ,
 
I read your bit on designing youre own models in RCM&E a good read it was too . Found it strange that we both work are plans the same way although i have never had any training in designing and the only drawing i had learned was at school in GED ( general engineering drawing ) . strange how problems are solved in pretty much the same manner like using a strip of balsa to achieve a nice curve .
 
Keep up the good work
 
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Stephen,
 
Like you the only formal training I ever received was back in the 70's, where I gained an 'O' level in Tech Drawing. Never thought I'd ever find a use for it in later life!
 
Just to prove the point here's the current situation on the fuselage plan.....
 
The aft section of the fuselage is pretty well sorted out. Now I need to move onto the nose and sort out the motor mount and cowl.
 
tim
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Tim,
 
For the shiny metal, have you considered self adhesive aluminium tape?
 
I have seen and bought some at two inches wide and also four inches wide. The latter is used by insulation people to stick aluminium backed insultation round pipes or hot water cylinders etc.
 
It is very sticky and shiny, hasn't a great deal of strength but can, with care, be worked round some compound curves.
 
I could send you a sample if you would like.
 
Malcolm
 
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Tim, I don't really know what you would consider to be too thick or heavy. I find the material to be thin and light, but mine aren't necessarily the same as your values.
 
As I said, I can send you a bit of each so that you can "suck it and see" before spending any money.
A PM with your address will get some on its way to you.
 
Malcolm
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