Help with repair of Radian Pro

[Michael Baylis]

Hi Folks,

Had a little accident with my new Radian Pro and I am seeking advice on how to go about repairing it:-

The manual suggests that "Thanks to teh Z-foam construction of the Radian Pro, repairs can be made using virtually any adhesive (hot glue, regular CA epoxy etc)."

Well, thanks for the choice, but I don't which would be better. The break is fairly clean, there was not any bits of foam lying around.

 

Any advice on which adhesive to use, method to use to put it back together and if I need to strengthen would be greatly appreciated.

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

 

[Ben B]

CA is fragile, epoxy is heavy. Hot glue is tricky because you'ld have to apply quite a lot and bring the bits together before it cools.

 

I'd use Uhu-por. Flexible and strong.

[PatMc]

I believe the Radian is made from the same material as MPX Elopar. The MPX EasyGlider kit is constructed using medium cyano on mainly butt joints. MPX advise using kicker on one surface & cyano on the other then bringing the parts together accurately. When I made mine I used medium cyano but didn't use kicker on the main joints. Where I did use it I applied it after the parts were pressed together.

If as you say the break in your Radian is clean I'd first check that the parts mate snugly at the break then simply apply medium cyano liberally on one surface, leaving a small margin near the outside edge all round, press the parts together & hold until the cyano sets. If possible get someone to wipe any squeezed out excess cyano with a wad of rag wetted with acetone (or nail polish remover). Job done - no need for any reinforcing.

[ken anderson.]

hello michael-if it's made from the same stuff as the M/plex stuff...just use some cyano and kicker...my blizzard was in 4 pieces from a disaster...and it went back together no probs and is still flying today...etc.....any cyano as well--no fancy brands will do.....if you want extra strength-put in a couple of bits of carbon reinforcement.....(forgot to mention -try the cyano on a scrap bit first to make sure it doesn't melt the foam)

 

ken anderson ne.1 cyano dept...

Edited By ken anderson. on 06/11/2011 17:35:05

[Michael Baylis]

Thank guys, small problem though, I may have misrepresented a "clean break". I meant that there is no missing chunks of foam.

 

The break it self is a bit of a zigzag and will require slot in and a bit of manoeuvring to get in position, therefore contact glue will probably not be the best choice as I may require a couple of attempts to get it right.

[ken anderson.]

michael-i would put it together dry and let the cyano wick into all the nooks and crannies...and then spray the kicker in to it---- that will work..and for extra security...should you feel you need it...put a couple of bits of carbon ribbon in to the side's....

 

ken anderson ne..1 nooks and crannies dept.

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

I'd use a slow (i.e. thick) cyano and proceed as per Ken's suggested method after a couple of dry runs. Do check compatibilty if you follow the acetone tip though - I'd wipe any overspill (very swiftly and no stopping) with a dry paper towel myself.

[Michael Baylis]

I've never used this method of spraying the kicker before. Would you recommend a product please.

so I plug it all together and then apply the cyano into the tiny gaps. give it time to wick in. then apply the kicker, which I assume will also wick in. BUT very very quickly, clean up the excess on the outside.

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

With the kicker on one surface method it will probably set too quickly to manoeuvre the bits into place.

 

Spread the cyano evenly over the foam but leave a small gap at the edge as it's likely to squidge out. Wipe off any excess, apply a little pressure unlil it grabs or a careful squirt of kicker to the crack will start the reaction if it doesn't grip within a reasonable time.

 

Use the kicker supplied by the cyano's maker.

Edited By Martin Harris on 07/11/2011 13:28:57

[Tim Mackey]

I'd use epoxy.

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

PU (Goriila) glue works well with foam....just make sure it doesn't foam up & stick it to the work bench!!

 

Epoxy as Tim says......

 

I've had good success with PVA (ordinary white wood glue) on polystyrene foam but I'm not sure how it would work on Z Foam......

[PatMc]

MPX advise against using epoxy on Elopar & I think the material used for the Radian is similar.

 

Quote from the EasyGlider instructions :

This model is not made of styrofoam™, and it is not possible to glue the material using white glue or epoxy. Please be sure to use cyano-acrylate glue exclusively, preferably in conjunction with cyano activator (”kicker”. We recommend medium-viscosity (thick) cyano. This is the procedure with Elapor®: spray cyano activator on one face of the joint; allow it to air-dry for around two minutes until the surface

appears to be “dry”, then apply cyano adhesive to the other face. Join the parts, and immediately position them accurately.

 

 

[Tim Mackey]

Fairy snuff.

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

If the parts fit well - no gaps - then I'm with Pat, I'd use thin or medium CA. Assemble the joint an wick it in from the outside.

 

If there are missing bits I wouldn't use CA at all.

 

BEB

 

PS Save yourself some money - get a house plant spray gun from B&Q and use water mist as a kicker!

[fly boy3]

Uhu por,can be used as a contact adhesive ie coat both parts wait util dry then place parts together for an instant bond, or coat both sides, tape together until dry. No probs. Cheers

[Michael Baylis]

Cyano and kicker it is then. Will have to wait until I am back home to try it.

 

This forum is brilliant for us new guys, and it is much appreciated when I get the help I need so very quickly, thank you.

[Stephen Grigg]

Michael make sure you do the repair in good airflow as the fumes emiiting when using on Elapor can be quite overwhelming Cyano That is.

[RGPuk]

For a repair like that on the foam of a Rad, 5 minute epoxy would certainly be my call. Not too quick - plenty of time for nudging and adjustment - but not so long that your hands go numb. A modest amount of methylated spirits on a cloth removes unsightly uncured epoxy easily.

 

Seen the same damage on the same sort of machine many times, and the guys used epoxy each time for a near perfect repair.

 

Ro.

[Michael Baylis]

Ok, the rad is glued back together, it went very well using CA.

 

However, when I put the canopy cover back on I notice that the nose foam has compress by about 5mm. Is there anything I can do to expand the nose back to it's normal length so that the canopy fits properly again?

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

[Tim Mackey]

try sticking it in some boiling water

[PatMc]

Posted by Tim Mackey on 13/11/2011 13:51:31:
try sticking it in some boiling water

...but take the rx, servos & motor out first.

[RGPuk]

With the electrics out of the way, rather than a wholesale dunking, very hot water can be applied selectively to the compressed areas to gradually true-up the area and achieve a fit with the canopy. Straight from a kettle with a precise spout is good - just off the boil. Heat applied wholesale will produce an all-over raised 'crocodile skin' of expanded foam cells.

 

Ro.

[Michael Baylis]

Looking a lot better, thank you guys.

 

Now to wait for a calm day to try it again

[John Sheehy]

I use the boiling water method also. If there are parts you don't want to get wet, put the parts in a thin polythene bag or wrap in clingfilm making sure no edges of film go into the water.

I was sceptical about Uhu Por until recently. It seemed weak and lacked grab, but having used it on a recent project I'm now sold. It's slow, giving plenty of time to get it right and it sets well.

[I_AM_MARKEVANS]

Just put a elastic band around the canopy and don't worry about it fitted well anymore, thats what i did after turning my original pro body into 4 pieces.

My brand new Radian pro body is shaped like a banana but it still flys.

And i'm a gorilla glue fan.