Peter Miller Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 No problem with separate servos. I would use 14 gram metal geared servos as available from Stormtrade on EBay. I use those on much bigger models than the Tipsy. Have fun Peter Edited By Peter Miller on 16/07/2012 08:17:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Hello Peter, I'm looking for the plans for Chantilly Lace - have you any idea where i can get a set from? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Chantilly Lace was published by RCM&E. According to the magazine it was plan number RC1881 but for some reason I can't find it in My Hobby Store. It was published in the April 2000 issue. Unfortunately I do not have my original drawings and, because it was published as a feature plan I do not even have the full size plan to copy. Chase the plans servie up. they must still have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derek critcher 2 Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Hi Peter, I am currently building your version of the Tipsy junior, I have an ASP32 ts sitting around doing nothing, would this be suitable for the Tipsy or a bit over the top power-wise? Derek Critcher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Probably quite a bit over the top, however you do have a throttle. Better than under powered anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luther Oswalt Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 Peter - Forgive what maybe a "newbie question from an newly back to the hobby old guy here in the USA. I'm planing to build the Harmong as my next plane. I looked at the article, I have the Hobby Store plans, and am not sure if you used a "std" or a "micro" servo for the ailerons. I plan to use an OS .25 AX engine in mine. Thanks and Thanks for so many great model designs! Leo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Hi Leo, I used a mini servo. These are about 1 1/4" long, 1 1/4" high and 11/16" wide not counting the mounting lugs. The ones that I currently use are Hitec HS 225BB. Hope that helps. Glad you like my designs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luther Oswalt Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Thanks Peter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Hi Peter If i build the bootlace would it affect it if i made the wing flat . (no dihedral) Edited By Gary Vinten 1 on 27/09/2012 18:56:47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Not enought to worry about. Probably you would hardly notice any difference.. Got to go and watch Channel 5 now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Yep ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derek critcher 2 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Hi Peter. just a couple more questions re tipsy junior. the plan doesn't indicate any engine off-set, did you include any plus, can you suggest alternative servos to those listed, as the supertec mini L's don't seem to be available at present. Derek Critcher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Hi Derek. Point 1) If the plan does not state otherwise the engine is set at 0-0 degrees. Works well for me. A few models needed down thrust, such as the T31M and Sandow. Point 2) The nearest that I can find an now use is the Hitec HS225 BB Mighty Mini. That is probably a better servo infact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-YRUS Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 Hi Peter. I hope this is not too leading a question. I have mainly opted for electrically powered models BUT have a OS40FS which I would like to use in a model to hopefully take my B cert with. Could you suggest one of your designs which might suit (or more if thats the case). I feel a little awkward asking this as most advice seems to be go bigger with everything but Im not so sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 Well, Oodalally would work quite well. capable of quite precise aerobatics. A nice model. Harlequin can do all the manouvres but might not fly with quite as much precision especially in a breeze. I don't really see the obsession with going bigger. Yes, really small models down in the .15 size would not be wise but 50 plus inches span will cope with most normal conditions. Just a matter of practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-YRUS Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Many thanks I was hoping for that reply. I have all the bits to hand so will start ASAP although it takes me a while to build an airframe as I am a bit of a faffer whilst building but thats half the fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john johnstone Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 hi peter, i am building the dragon dancer 2, but having a problem with the top decking at the front. can you tell me if the cockpit floor goes all the way on to f2 former or stops short.. has anyone out there built one and taken any pics of the build. thanks malc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 The cockpit floor goes from front to F-2 and then another piece back from there to the rear of the cockpit. I could have dropped F2 slightly and had a one piece floor. For some reason I didn't get notification of your post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john johnstone Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 hi thanks for your help, i have lenghened cockpit floor and fitted it. i think i just have to fit front decking now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Hi Peter Having decided to try designing and building my own plane I managed to get an A1 drawing board off Ebay. I decided it would be a good idea, for practice, to copy my Arising Star trainer at 75% size as the fus length fits A1 nicely. All is going well but I have just measured the airofoil secion which ecouraged me to investigate the subject. The section is 18% of the chord length which is , as I have discovered , very thick. From what I have read this will give good lift but a lot of drag. Also the large radius at the LE will give a low speed stall. I also read that when the chord length is changed the characteristics change so what I would like to know is ..... By reducing the chord length on such a thick section should I also reduce the airofoil thickness? or.. Would it be wiser to just use a Clark Y airofoil section. Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Hi Geoff. As you say, that airfoil section has good characteristics for a trainer. IT will be slow and stable and will not stall easily or suddenly. The airfoil has to be reduced as a unit, you can't reduce the chord and not the thickness. What you want the model to do will affect the choice of airfoil. Clark Y is an excellent section and if set with the chordline (A line drawn through the centre of curvature at the LE and the trailing edge.) is set Parallel to the centre line of the aircraft it will work quite well when inverted. If you want a similar sort of section but better for aerobatics I would choose NACA 3413. This still has a flat bottom behind the spar for easy building on the board. Lets be quite honest, at the sizes we are working with there is not a tremendous amount of difference between basically similar sections. I change from NACA 2412 through 2414a d the NACA 34 series and cannot tell the difference I use them because my Compufoil program allow me to. Indeed the old TLAR sections ("THat looks about right" drawn round the sole of your boot) work just as well. Basically you want a section about 14% thick, down to 12%. Maximum thickness at about 30% back from the leading edge. A fairly blunt nose and the nose a bit higher than Clark Y. We call this height of the nose the Phillips entry. Clark Y is a bit lower than we want for aerobatics but still works. From the mainspar back the underside can be flat for ease of building and there you have a TLAR section. Hope this helps Edited By Peter Miller on 09/04/2013 11:13:46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 That's brilliant I'll reduce the thickness to 13% at 30% back from the leading edge with a high blunt nose. Time to sharpen my pencils Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Have fun and let us know how you get on. I always say that most design is rule of thumb, and the first rule is "Don't hit yur thumb with a hammer or you can't hold a pencil!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luther Oswalt Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Peter - Could you tell which AirFoil you used on the Harmony? Thanks Leo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 I used NACA 3412 on Harmony. THis was because it was compleely flat on thbe bottom behind the spar. I used to pin down all thebottom sheet and capstrips and build the wing on top of thsoe. Now I don't pin the capstrips down and this allows me to use NACA 2412 which has slight curvature on the underside. To be honest I can't tell any difference whatsoever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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