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Sticking down wayward decals


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I have found the canopy glues very good at sticking so called "self adhesive" decals.....apply a thin smear & hold the decal in place with masking tape (the glue takes 24 hours to set).....carefully remove the masking tape....job done...thumbs up

Blenderm tape here.....very sticky flexible tape by 3M.....designed to stick to greasy human skin to hold bandages etc so sticks well to most other things too....wink 2

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No need for any sort of glue or tape if they are of the self adhesive type, simply set your covering iron to low (#1 if it has a numerical scale) and using a cotton sock on the sole, gently iron the decals back into place. I use this technique on all my foamies and have never had any decals come loose again.

Edited By Bill_B on 09/04/2012 08:02:19

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I agree with SteveW-O. On a recent u-tube clip someone sent to me , the process of making our foam models in the far east was filmed .After each moulding was taken out the heated mould was given a liberal spray of release agent . this probably explains the problems with decals . Do test the alcohol on a scrap prior to wiping the model off as some can make the foam dissapear quicker than a fly awaysmiley

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The moulding process for a Hobby King Mustang and use of release agent is on U-tube clip. same process as all foam moulding I suspect.

 
 
very interesting clip, but cant imagine a young lad doing that here in the UK. It shows how they can do it so cheaply.

Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 10/04/2012 18:34:35

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Posted by Engine Doctor on 10/04/2012 16:00:43:

The moulding process for a Hobby King Mustang and use of release agent is on U-tube clip. same process as all foam moulding I suspect.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3NGYTcn9_E
very interesting clip, but cant imagine a young lad doing that here in the UK. It shows how they can do it so cheaply.

I have some clips of my brother-in-laws factory that makes,cuts veneer for plywood, I must post that, then you can compare factory conditions with the UK smiley

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Steve - I have visited plants in China andworked in and visited plants in the UK, the biggest differences are H&S, and cleanliness. The Chinese plants tended to be much cleaner and tidier!

The one area that China tends to fall down is working conditions in terms of pay, hours and safety. A company I used to work for had a facility in China to assemble our products, and we paid more than most to keep the best people, but still a lot less than the UK, and a 10 hour day was considered short! We also applied the same level of H&S to our China plant, as it was considered the only ethical thing to do.

Even with these measures, it was still a lot cheaper than doing the same job in the UK!

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I had this problem recently on a GWS EPO FW190. I had found the supplied waterslide decals useless so had made my own from self-adhesive vinyl. After a couple of days one of the decals curled off the surface of the fuselage and refused to restick. I made a replacement for it, but that did the same (strangely all the others stayed put).

So I sprayed the back of the decal with 3M Craft Mount (Permanent) and then reaffixed it to the model. It solved the problem perfectly. I would not have tried this with standard EPS (Styrene) foam, but hard EPO/Elapor foam is impervious to the solvent in the adhesive.

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Hi folks,

For waterslide decals there is a product called "Decalfix" by Humbrol specifically made for sticking down waterslide decals on the solid scale models. I tend to use it to seal the edges of the larger decals we use, although the working time does allow a brush to cover quite a large area before the decal is laid down. A soft cloth is then used to press the decal down on to the surface and smooth out the decal.

Ady

 

Edited By Ady Hayward on 13/04/2012 05:52:42

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