Acro Wot ARTF (balsa) chat

[Flanker .]

Good see that others feel the same. Have signed the petition .

As an aside I tried using Z pliers on one of the scraps of supplied wire. It snapped. Tried a few times. They ALL snapped. I would still advise that users who feel that theirs are OK should replace them anyway or check with strong light and a glass for fatigue cracks. If this wire can't take a simple Z bend what will it do over time with vibration ?

I am going to make up some carbon rods for the ailerons.

Good luck ! F

[Brian Clamp]

Have signed the petition.

Should we not inform Chris Foss of the faults as well? It is after all a reflection on his design which is an all time great.

[John Allen]

Yes, we should inform Chris of the changes we'd like to see in future AcroWot ARTFs, especially seeing as I hope we see the XtraWot coming as an ARTF too.

And while we're at it, for the older generation such as myself, may even an AcroWot XL

[Flanker .]

And another thing .... The rudder wires n bits were fine, easy , no probs.

Now the instructions. Can any one tell me what the tiny black "bung" is for ? And how about those little bits of black wood with fore screws in a bag ? They look like cockpit parts but I left alone. The 'strucions don't mention them !

While the instructions are quite clear there are gaps. I also feel that the should high light the need to do some jobs in the right order.... Don't ask ! I got over the self induced probs like leaving the tail wheel to near last ... It needs to go on BEFORE the rudder..... Stuff like that. No fault of the kit except I do read the things and "warning you can stuff things up by out of sequence work would be nice. BUT yes MY fault really.

F

[John Allen]

Peronsally I find the closed loop rudder stuff difficult.

The tail wheel mounting could follow Blackhorse/Seagull's latest where the tail wheel control wire is in a plastic attachment at the bottom of the rudder.

[John Allen]

It would appear that most people are perfectly happy with the contents of the ARTF AcroWot, as we only have 5 signatures so far.

Are people really happy with the kit as is?

[Flanker .]

Thing is faffing around and swapping bits and overcoming snags is kind of normal when assembling an airframe these days. So with this one being a nice flyer at the end I doubt if many will sign the petition right now. Most folks will deal withthe snags n go n fly, without looking at forum posts.

Letting Mr Foss know - nicely - would help I'm sure..

F

[ken anderson.]

the thing is will C Foss be bothered-i tend to think not as fair enough - he designed the original A/Wot...but this one is his in name only......the people who make the ARTF model will be the one's responsible for any short commings it may have......and the people who are their agents? ..

ken anderson.......... A/Wot dept.....

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Flanker .]

Nice ! I use an old bolt. I will enjoy using a "real deal" - until I lose it in the grass.... again !

And the little black wood pieces ?

GW F

[dav84]

The little black bits go inside the lip of the cockpit against the backwall. This thickens the lip so you have something to screw into if you screw the canopy on. One screw front and back and then one screw either side into these blocks. Took me ages to figure it out.

[John Greenhalgh]

Hi, Just finished my Acro wot and setting up the radio. I am having difficulty in centralising the rudder. When I move the stick to one side or the other and let go to allow the stick to centralise the rudder. The rudder is always a couple of mm short off centre (tried in both directions).

I've tried adjusting the cable wires but the problem is the same.

Has anyone had a similar experience?

Regards John

[John Allen]

Worked fine for me, tighten the wires (but not too much), ensure your servo is actually returning to the same center position too.

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

As John A says John G you need to be sure the servo is centering accurately.....disconnect the wires & fix a pointer near the servo arm......move the stick in each direction & ensure that the servo arm aligns with the pointer each time.....if it doesn't then you've found the problem & a new servo should be fitted.

The other possibility is that the wires are too tight....or indeed too slack......they should be tight enough to take out any slack but not under any noticeable tension either........if you can get a top 'C' by plucking one of the wires they are definitely too tight!!!

Final thought.....how straight are the wire runs? Ideally they should be nice & straight & its is often worth crossing the wires over in the fuselage (make sure they don't rub against each other as they move) so the wire from the left servo arm attaches to the right of the rudder & the one from the right servo arm goes to the left of the rudder....

Closed loop linkages usually provide a very accurate & secure method of moving a control surface......well worth persevering to make this work correctly....

[Flanker .]

I found the rudder setup a breeze. The 'structions stress the need not to foul the elevator rod. Check that and the centreing mentioned above.

Also make sure that you do not have any slip in the cable ends.

Good luck ! F

[Flanker .]

Arrrrrggggh ! Just took the spinner off to fit my air filter. On screwing it on again one of the screw heads has sheared off. Great ! Glad I did not have a starter on it. Stump is flush with the plastic so no chance of easy extraction. Mind you now I know its quality I don't want it anyway.

COME ON Ripmax ! I have NEVER broken a spinner screw in 30 years of fliying ! This is just not good enough. I would happily pay a fiver more for good hardware.

Humph. (again) F

[Flanker .]

Some GOOD news. The model balances spot on with a .60 two stroke up front. No lead needed. Nice !

Set up the throws, kick the tires nlight the fires, and it's maiden time.

Looking forward to that.

F

[Flanker .]

Took it out today. No worries flies very well. Gets small quickly. Flaps cause a down pitch on this one so around 2mm of up elev dialed in when using airbrake is just right.

Didn't make me grin like my YAK though - sigh

F

[John Allen]

Yes, flies well, performs aeros well, almost as stable as a Wot4. For excitement it does not compare to my BH Yak 54, but falls well into the category of great fun. As with the Wot4, I'll definitely get another one when this one expires.

[Flanker .]

After flight four I found that one of the wing bolts had stripped its thread. Examination shows that the captive nut is a different pitch to the bolt. Two spares froma Phoenix kit are the same pitch and grip really hard.

Check your bolts ! Bet you do anyway !

Lovely flier -F

[Brian Clamp]

Hi Flanker,

the problem with the wing bolt captive nuts was highlighted very early on in this forum.

replacing them was the very first thing I did. The nuts have practically no thread depth. The screws look like 1/4 whitworth. I started out by buying captive nuts from B&Q before I realised the screws are not 6mm thread. Had to get matching my nearest model shop. Not as close to me as B&Q unfortunately.

beware if buying on line there are two sizes of screws available some black some white. To me the illustrations show different threads.

[Mark a]

Evening all.

Just putting the finishing touches to my Acro Wot ARTF. I've fitted a SC .61 two stroke to it and was wondering which prop to put on it ?.

 

Regards.

 

Mark.

Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 27/01/2013 06:27:04

[Tony H]

At a guess i would run it in on the ground with a 12x6 or 13x7 and then fly on a 13x8 or 14x7

Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 27/01/2013 06:27:16

[Bob Cotsford]

I don't have an SC61 but I do have OS SF/FXs and SuperTigre G61, and I wouldn't run them on a 14" prop in an Acrowot. 12*8, 13*6 or 13*7 at most. If you want it to motor then a tuned pipe and a 12*8- 12*10 should make it quite interesting.

Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 27/01/2013 06:27:27

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Posts moved across to this, the existing AW thread. Just being tidy.

I'd probably go with a 13x7 for starters Tony.