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self contained i/c engine starters


Don Fry
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I have recently cost the French government a fair bit in physiotherapy costs to sort out tennis elbow caused by my habit of starting engines by hand. Getting old and knackered. Thats the engines, I am still a sex god, but accepted a mishapen one. Is there a bit of electric gagitry, electronics whatever which would allow me to strap a lipo batter under an electric starter to get a self contained unit and protecting the battery from excessive discharge.

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I recently acquired an Align heli starter which you pop your own 3S 2200mAh (or thereabouts) LiPo into.

Seems to do the job OK, and you can get a conventional starter 'cup' attachment to use in place of the heli 'wand' if you want. I just have the heli wand - I got this starter as I was sick of the push-in heli wand on my other starter never being lined-up properly. So I have the old starter to use on f/wing models and this one for helis.

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I use a three cell 3600 mah LiPO with my starter, starts anything up 26cc petrol. I dont have it attached to the starter it just connects using 3.5mm bullet connectors.

It should not be difficult to affix to the starter if required with either velcro or with tape around the starter body.

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I have a entry level Irvine Starter (**LINK**), cut off the crocodile clips and soldered bullet connectors onto it, and am powering it using 3 Cell 11.1V lipos.

I'm firing up a .46 two stroke engine and it doesn't struggle at all, and I don't have to worry about wires getting caught up in the propellor.

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I've done it slightly differently. I have a toolbox on wheels, and the starter battery and fuel supply live inside. The starter itself has been fitted with a plug and the battery is wired to a socket on the box. Similarly the fuel supply is plumbed to a fitting on the box, the dubro sort that you can fit on a plane. So you trundle it all out to the pits, plug in the starter and the fuel pump (manual in my case) and away you go. The charger for the electric plane plugs into the same socket. All quite convenient. You do need to park the box in a place that keeps the curly cord away from the prop. The main merit of the 18AH sealed lead acid battery I use is that it was free.

I did just discover that the non geared type of starter has a limit to the size of engine it will start, and had to buy myself a geared one. Well, it is a toothed belt, not a gear drive, but anyway it will at least happily start my ASP 400R, which the non geared one did not like at all.

John

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  • 1 year later...

I am now of an age where I no longer kneel as it's hard to get up again. So I have made myself a folding table with aircraft supports. I can stand my flightbox on a side flap but my 12 Volt car battery has to remain on the floor. I have a Sullivan Hi Torque starter runnimg from the car battery but had to change the wiring as the original was not long enough to reach from the table to the battery on the ground.

The wire I used came from a now disused clothes washing machine but after I had started the engine the wire was very hot and I feel will be dangerous. I cannot read the wattage on the starter to ascertain the ampage.

Can anybody advise me please as to what would be suitable flexible wire.

Thank you

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