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Oodalally


Peter Miller
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  • 1 month later...

This is the clearest shot showing the nose and cut away. The cut away area is also shown on the plan. You can adjust your cut away to suit your engine by checking the engine and silencer against the plan.

At the moment Oodalally doesn't have a nose due to a failed aileron horn. That is why I entered the competition for a set of pre cut parts for the model!!!!

oodallay (10).jpg

 

Edited By Peter Miller on 15/07/2013 08:40:44

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By the time you get the silencer in that huge hole in the cowl gets fairly full. You could add more wood round the engine if you wanted but you need access to get the engine in an out and for the carb etc.

One thing that I have leanred over the years. Being able to get at things to servie them is vital. The hours that I have spent struggling to do a job on a full size aircraft because the access was so poor has ingrained that need for access into my brain.

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Hey Peter when I saw this plan back in april I knew id have to build it. Unfortunately ive had a terible radio failure and ruined my favorite model Seagul PC9 .. Fortunately this plan is almost exactly the right size and I, m using it to rebuild the PC9. I'LL post some pics when shes finished

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A control horn snapping due to sunlight is worrying as it was on a newish model. Could it have been transferred from model to model or left around in the flightbox for years or some other explanation?
I presume it was a normal British made item? Could it have been one of those cheap imported jobs?
I suppose we must all check these carefully now.
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In fact two snapped on that model, then several snapped on other older models. The manufacturer has been contacted and has found some old stock has gone brittle, these have been chucked out. One old model 7 plus years had two snap and two fine..

I am told that the supplier of plastics keeps saying "That one is no longer available, This is the replacement plastic"

What I suggest is that you give your control horns a quick bend test before flight or better, before leaving the house.

While the problem has been with the one type of horn that I use most I suspect the same problem can occur with any white plastic horn as the plastics suppliers will be sending the same sorts of plastic out to everyone.

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Hi Peter, Oodalally had it's maiden flight today, no nasty surprises on take off, just a few clicks of trim here and there and all's well. Originally I intended to use a 3s LiPo battery, 1000kv motor and 12x6 prop but the battery wasn't heavy enough, so I put a 4s 3300 in it. That got the C of G almost spot on. This is a lovely little model, not hard to fly and quite quick. I wonder what might happen with a 12x8, I know there's one around here somewhere. Cheers Richard.dsc00017.jpg

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Andrew, I made the cowl in the same way as shown on page 7, 3/8" sheet for the top & sides, 1/2" sheet for the bottom. 3/4" triangle balsa is glued to the 4 corners inside. Think of it as a tapered box. Once you have glued the nose ring in place, plane and sand it to the profile on the plan. I hope this is of some help. Cheers, Richard.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Peter,

As soon as I finish Harmony I will start building Oadalally. It is very nice simple plane ... just what I like best ... of course with the Great Looks. I have the Oodalally plans from RCME and am reviewing them. My question is the Landing Gear (U/C) on the Oodalally does not look like it would live long as drawn. The landing gear on the Harmony is some what similar but, is very strong. Am I just missing something?

Leo

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Hi Leo.

Not sure why you feel that it won't last as drawn. I am using this method on all my designs at the moment. Not suffered a single failure except when I snapped tha saddles but that only takes a minute to replace.

I am now cutting a slot up the 1/4" ply side pieces just long enough for the leg uprights. THis saves trying to drill holes which sometimes break through the side. See the Swamp Rat build photos.

AS point of interest. I lost Oodalally dues to a snapped aileron conrtrol horn. I am now build another model baiscally the same but just cosmetic differences because I liked it so much.

No, It will be in another magazine.

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Hi Peter,

What is to prevent the wheel from twisting on landig with just glue holding the wire in a slot withe just the pressure from a small pc of sheet medal held in place by wood screws? I remember some folks folding Ring Master Profile stunters in the very old days. The wheels ended up it the wins! I'm just wondering and the Engineer in me says Hmmmmm? I understand Harmony and it looks just fine but I don't understand what prevents the gear rotating in the slot in Oodalally. Got to run.

Leo

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The undercarriage upright goes into the slot in the ply upright. The leg then goes across the fuselage underside before going down to the wheel.

The leg cannot pivot round the upright because it is held to the bottom by two nylon double saddles which hold both legs.

The leg cannot rotate backwards in the saddle because the upright prong in the ply upright keeps it vertical.

Consider it this way. The upright is held in the slot. Ther parts of the leg that go across the fuselage act like torsion bar suspension.

Let me put it this way. I use high quality 8 SWG piano wire. Some of my less delicate "arrivals" will bend that wire but the never make the undercarriage rotate in any way.

JUst a few of the models that I have used the method on. Harlequin, Swamp Rat, Oodalally. Melody.Study the build blogs on these models and see how it works.

Non RCM&E plans include Dancing Queen, Panic Attack, Alley Cat (not yet published) Witt Vee, Minnow, Wee Mad Arthur. Those are the ones that I can remember off the top of my head.

It works.

Edited By Peter Miller on 28/08/2013 20:01:49

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Peter,

I must have been having a Senior Moment ... of course it goes across just like the Harmony does and is strong as a Wild Horse! Forgive me me and thank you very much! Now to find some "real" piano wire!  Our little Hobby Shop is basically RC Vehicles.

Leo

Edited By Luther Oswalt on 28/08/2013 21:35:40

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