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Peter Miller

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Having built the CAP 20L. I needed something to replace the Minnow that got demolished when I managed to switch the tarnny off whil;e reaching for the elevator trim.

This is the story.

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Basic fuselage structure.

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The top sides added/

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Underside. Note the blocks in the silencer area.

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Top sheet completed and cowl being built round the engine.

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Looking inside to see the U/C mount.

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Another view of U/C mount and silencer cut away.

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Close up of cowl being built.

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Engine being mounted temporarily. See silencer recess.

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Now on to the wing

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The basic wing being built over the lower sheet.

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Top sheet being added to one wing.

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The other wing being built, Note that R-1 is not fitted to this wing at this stage.

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Complete left wing being joined to right wing. Right wing R-1 is added now.

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CLose up of Dihedral joint being made.

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CLose up of Bellcrank bay. Slot allows pushrod to be fitted after covering. makes life easier.


Complete wing ready for covering.

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Close up of Aileron servo bay..

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I design them so I can get at the engine.

There is a very simple way to make a removeable cowl. Make the cowl as shown but complete without cut outs.

Put a facing of 1/16" ply on the rear face. Make small grooves in about three places and screw the cowl to F-1 with old servo screws.

You could even make keyhole slots and just slot the cowl over the over the screw heads

Edited By Peter Miller on 11/11/2012 19:49:09

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Oodalally is from Robin Hood. an exlamation that can be excited, happy or dismayed. Very appropriate for modellers.

About 150 published designs. I haven't a clue how many in total..

My recent Stits Junior was flyable but only just. it crashed on take off twice out of six take offs. Once in the air it wasn't bad.

A couple of others which failed due to a wrongly located CG. Needless to say not published.

Got a drawing for a TD 049 powered glider to finish off now....

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Posted by Chris Bott - Moderator on 12/11/2012 09:53:08:

Here's another way to do an electric installation Andrew.


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Removing the 4 screws that hold the motor to the X mount means the motor can be removed through the hole at the front.

Another nice design by the way Peter.

Thank you for that Chris....and for your suggestion too Peter.


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I know that Peter really prefers IC powered models however there is a growing trend towards electric especially amongst newer recruits. Therefore it would be nice if some of the free pull out plans showed a revised front end for electric power too. In this case I suppose the engine bulkhead would be needed further forward as the motor is shorter and space is needed behind for the Lipo. It wouldn't take much extra space on the drawing to show this option together with a top hatch for Lipo access. It is so much easier to build exactly to the plan rather than modify it yourself if you are a newcomer.

Frankly we need to do everything to help & encourage the new recruits to build their own models and if this means giving details of electric conversions ..... Otherwise they wont buy magazines but buy ARTF from the websites.......

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Some of us don't know what size the electric motor would be, or the batteries so it would be very hard, if not impossible to draw up an alternative front end and be sure that it is right.

I suppose I could draw it up for a Speed 600 and a 7 cell Nicad but I don't think that would work to well on a model intended for a .32 ic engine.

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When you get ARTF now they often have an electric kit which consists often of nuts and bolts to fit onto the firewall.In building a model like this using the space for the fuel tank could be modified to take the battery iexpect amd making a battery hatch would be straight forward..Most shops now can sell an equivalent electric motor,and using 100 watts per lb would also give the size required.

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Sounds good. Then the builder should be able to get all the information he needs.

As a point of interest, very few poeple build models without some modification however slight. That is the very first step to learning how to design one's own model.

However I have just bought a Wankle engine. my plan for that will show a conventional engine and the Wankle. Wankles look like brushless motors. Problem solved.wink 2

Edited By Peter Miller on 12/11/2012 17:17:49

Edited By Peter Miller on 12/11/2012 17:18:16

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No I have not seen your Dragon Dancer 2 because I went from page 63 straight to page 70 and the pension does not hit the bank until Friday.

No doubt I'll have a look at it then and have it built by the following Friday and the Friday after, Doolally will be under way.

Just keep em coming smile p

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