Terry Walters Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Posted by Peter Miller on 09/05/2013 08:16:11: Just shape the T.E. from thick sheet...or are you out of that as well? Have fun! Hi Peter, You got it in one Peter - no 3/8" sheet and the nearest decent model shop is in the UK! I could create a layer sandwich to make up 3/8 and shape but might be prone to warping? Looks like rain this pm after all Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 Actually laminating it and making sure that it stays flat while the glue is drying will make it less liable to warp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Hi Terry, Can't help with that stock but you could get some by the middle of next week from Lindinger - and postage is only €6. I'm sure you'll need a few other bits as well... Balsa and service both excellent Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Yes - thought about them Pete and translated their descriptions. Wrote to them asking how you order grades got an official response from them to say they 'don't do grades of balsa' just different sizes but they may be the answer. This just makes 4 projects on the go at once now! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Terry, rather than laminating how about making them up from 3/32 sheet top and bottom, assuming you have some of that. Add a few triangular riblets plus a sheet LE. Will need to reinforce where the hinges are. Probably take no longer than shaping a thick sheet, if you had one that is, and lighter too. Edited By Piers Bowlan on 09/05/2013 09:38:18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Posted by Piers Bowlan on 09/05/2013 09:35:56: Terry, rather than laminating how about making them up from 3/32 sheet top and bottom, assuming you have some of that. Add a few triangular riblets plus a sheet LE. Will need to reinforce where the hinges are. Probably take no longer than shaping a thick sheet, if you had one that is, and lighter too. Edited By Piers Bowlan on 09/05/2013 09:38:18 That might be a good option Piers I've got some 3/32" sheet - thanks Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Posted by Peter Miller on 09/05/2013 09:08:37: Actually laminating it and making sure that it stays flat while the glue is drying will make it less liable to warp. Peter - strange - this post didn't arrive until a minute ago - that's good news tho'! Thanks Terry Edited By Terry Walters on 09/05/2013 10:07:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 IT showed up as posted on my computer. SLEC do grades but I don't know their postage to France. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 'The Balsa Cabin' Here, do grades and ship to Europe too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 A bit of rain yesterday so during the afternoon I made all the formers, nose ring and cut out the blanks for the rudder and tailplane to add to my full set of ribs. Not bad so far but I definitely need a new blade on my hobby saw!! Quite satisfying. Weather here looks good enough for flying today though. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will123 Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 I am completely new to building, I have not even completed a kit, but I have been looking for a project. From the first, I liked the look of this plane and decided to build. I have cut out most of the parts and starting to assemble but I need some advice. 1. I cannot seem to find any stock of 1.25" x 3/8" trailing edge stock - can anyone advise on a source, I have tried LMS and web searches. 2. The trailing edge spar(made from 1/4 sheet)- am I correct in assuming that the strip is simple cut over wide, such that it can rest on the building board and it is sanded to size and shape after gluing? If this is the case what is the best technique to achieve a good result? 3. People here are suggesting to scatter the under carriage holes- by how much? 4. When assembling the wing ribs, what is the best method for ensure the correct "angle of attack" and therefore make the wing flat- do you just rely on the vertical leading and trailing edges and the corresponding spars to get the positions. Thank you in advance for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 I expect Peter will reply in due course but my advice is :- 1. This is mentioned above. 2. No, I think you shape it first. I would use a razor plane. see "cross section at root " top left of plan. i would use a full width 3 inch sheet double sided taped to edge of bench,and plane down top and then bottom, finally trimming off the 1/4 strip. If you get it wrong first then just trim, say, 1/8 off and start again. 3. Stagger is the correct term.....one piece of piano wire goes directly behind the other, therefore the hole centres are exactly 1 piano wire dia apart so the 2 wires fit in a double u/c clamp.( plan seems wrong here) 4. seems to be explained in the text. If you exactly follow Peters sequence of building it should work as it's the same as many other of his models. Edited By kc on 13/05/2013 15:45:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 SLEC can provide 1 1/4" X 3/8 trailing edge stock. I think they would like you to buy some extra wood as two trailing edges would be rather vunerable in the post. Perhaps the 1/4" sheet for the tail parts. I glue the trailing trailing edge spar down and then shapt it to match the ribs with a razor plane and sandpaper. I suggest a Zip Razor plane from Balsa Cabin. Just be careful not to shave the ribs as well. As KC says. The undercarriage holes a re staggered . Actually I have changed my set up slightly. Instead of a hole I now cut a slot in the 1/4 ply uprights. Draw lines down the middle of the ply and the cut a slot that will just take the wire in front of the line for one and behind the line on the other. I will just say that this slot system was adopted because of suggestions on this forum. Forget "angle of attack" THis is set by the shape of the fuselage. Just follow the instructions with the wing built flat on the board. Edited By Peter Miller on 13/05/2013 18:47:36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 The way I make these u/c slots is to use two pieces of ply the thickness of the wire, one has a slot slightly smaller than the wire cut into it with a saw, the other is plain. Glued together. When the glue is dry I cramp them onto a bit of hardwood and run a drill down the slot to open it out to a perfect fit on the wire. This is easier than trying to make a slot to exact size with a saw.because it easily gets oversize and a sloppy fit on the wire. Actually many Boddington designs only use the 1 piece but I prefer to have 'cover' which does not need to be quite as thick as the slotted part. If for some models you need the u/c raked forward its so much easier to rake the slot rather than put the bend forward in the wire. Bending a wire u/c in the other plane too is much trickier than making it 'flat' and you need to get 2 identical but 'handed' pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will123 Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Thank you for the replies: SLEC does not list 3/8" x 1.25" trailing edge on their web site but I have emailed them. Also now that I have looked at the plan properly I can understand the need to stagger the undercarriage holes. However I still cannot see how the ribs are placed on the building board and be sure they are all at the same orientation, ie that they are all level and not tipped forward or back because there is only one point of contact with the board. Are you relying on the vertical leading and trailing edge of each rib butting squarely with the sides of the leading and trailing edge strips to set their position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 I don't understand what you mean by only one contact point. and not being able to ensure at what angle the ribs are set. If you are refferring to the fact that there is a slight curve on the underside of the ribs this is alowed for because they actually rest on the leading edge sheet and trailing edge capstrip. so there is 1/16" clearance for the curve between the these two pieces of sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 We are off tomorrow in the Camper van 'to see the sea' for a few days but so far I have cut out/made everything I can before starting to actually build. Also this week I started running in the ASP 32 that is to be driving force! Forecast is for rain and very strong winds so reading materials in bulk in the cupboard and I shall think about a 'vintage scheme' that is at least a little different to the prototype! (Trouble is I really like yours Peter!) Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 I find that looking at racing aircraft or homebuilt pictures can help with inspiration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 I'm with you there Peter - already looking - thanks. Terry Edited By Terry Walters on 17/05/2013 19:30:28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 Use the GP 42 in Dragon Dancer and the .32 in Oodalally. Oodallaly is the lighter of the designs. Probably a little less wing area too. I like the smaller models because I have a small work bench, a small car and I just like working to those sort of sizes. The lower fuel consumption is an added bonus. Edited By Peter Miller on 29/05/2013 08:43:42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 And those are just the plans from RCM&E! I seem to remember that Dragon Dancer had an SC 40 in to. I just design and build what I like. They never work as well when I have to do something someone else wants done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 I just realised something. You are talking about Dragon Dancer 2. When I was talking about using the .42 in Dragon Dancer I was thinking of the Mk I which was a bigger heavier aircraft. FIre Drake was even bigger and heavier with an RCV 58 and retracts. The Mark 2 is quite light so probably the 32 would be bettr in that and the .42 would be OK in Oodalally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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