john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 cheers Colin, it worked then bought a little Nikon fitted 1/16 ply full depth in battery bay, 1/4 to canopy to stop squashing when launched motor open for ease + cooling, dremelled for wires little box's for servo's did single seater to keep weight down 241/2 oz allup simple colour scheme (rubbish at it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iqon Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I think it looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 It's amazing the difference you can make to how this plane looks with a bit of tinkering. That looks brilliant John! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 enjoyed doing it very much, might revisit some small builds with electric been perusing Traplet. couple more pics. seems you can teach an old dog new tricks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Miller Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Looks like it will be easy to see, well done. I hope that arrow isn't to show the direction of travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 thanks fella's it's to remind me props at back Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Cavie Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Having just read through this thread I have ordered the PC plan and hope to be joining all you guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brfc7 Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Still not installed the motor mount yet But I have finished off the canopy retaining magnets. I'll sort out pics later and possibly glue motor mount in baz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Carr Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Posted by brfc7 on 15/02/2014 11:05:56: Still not installed the motor mount yet But I have finished off the canopy retaining magnets. I'll sort out pics later and possibly glue motor mount in baz Seen Baz's pushy cat in the flesh at our club meeting on Thursday. Super job Baz, looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 The squadron is getting bigger! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brfc7 Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Here's my way of retaining the canopy. I've put a dowel in the front and used 4 strong magnets on the rear. I got a piece of balsa the same thickness as my magnets and drilled 2 holes through slightly bigger than the size of the magnets and then glued this to a piece of ply and I then glued the magnets in the 2 holes on to the ply and glued all this in to the fuz with some triangle as support For the Canopy side I cut a big square roughly where i thought the magnets would need to be. I then put some cling film over canopy hole on fuz and put the magnets all together. I then filled the hole on the canopy with epoxy and quickly pressed it down in place on top of the magnets and left to dry over night. This is now a very strong tight seal Also EVENTUALLY I've installed the motor mount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Privett Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Posted by Martin Cavie on 15/02/2014 09:40:17: Having just read through this thread I have ordered the PC plan and hope to be joining all you guys Welcome aboard, Martin! Hope you enjoy the build, and it's a good model to fly, I've clocked-up 60 flights with mine since it's rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Cavie Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Thanks John, i'll need some advice on motors soon, nearly all my planes have glow engines. I did think about a .10 or .15 on the back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Privett Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 I'd leave it as electric Martin. Otherwise I think you'd have balance problems with the glow engine and tank being heavier than an electric motor and no battery up front... Besides, one of the great things about the PushyCat is just popping a battery in and flying it. Have a look back over the thread at what others have powered theirs with. Mine has a 2200kv motor with a 6x4 prop running on 3-cell 2200mAh LiPos. Most others (from memory) use the same battery, some use a lower-revving motor (1200kv or thereabouts) with a bigger prop. But do ask any questions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Cavie Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Thanks again, I have loads of 2200 3s as I have a Wot 4 foamie so I think a motor similar to yours will be the order of the day. I have looked at a Turnigy 2826-6 2200kv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 a question for those with PushyCat form - has anyone tried leaving the wing as 1/4" sheet with just a radius on the leading edge? I can't help wondering whether putting a section on a 1/4" sheet wing actually achieves anything other than a big pile of shavings. My Polaris has a flat 5mm depron wing and apart from a strong dutch roll at silly slow speeds it handles just fine. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 I bet it wouldn't make much difference and it would save an awful lot of wood shavings, someone has to be the first to do it! The only down-side Ican see Bob, if the aerodynamics are ok, is that there is a very noticeable difference in the weight of a wing panel after you have planed it, sanded it, disappeared under a large pile of shavings and half choked to death in the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Now the building board is clear I'm about ready to have a go at a PC, so I'm thinking I'll leave the wing flat plate as there are other advantages - the ailerons will be more rigid, no shaping the booms to fit an arbitrary wing section, less time to build and less mess. This will be a quickie build as I want to start the Jabberwock. Sort of a direct opposite build to Erfolg's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 make some shavings Bob its theraputic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 ooh no, BEB wants the variety, vive la difference and all that. I want a quick dirty build after the last one and then the Jabberwock will be the therapy! Though I might put some taper on the ailerons as a compromise Edited By Bob Cotsford on 17/02/2014 15:04:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Cavie Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 My plan arrived today and I have glued the wing panels together. I have a question about the motor mount. I planned to put the out runner motor out in the breeze so should I shorten the fuselage by that amount? I was going to move F4 forward by 20mm or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 I left former as plan Martin and shortened fuzz, mines in the breeze also saved a bit of weight senior moment, I moved former back, had nowt to glue to when I shortened fuzz left mine on show, paid £8 for it Edited By john stones 1 on 20/02/2014 21:23:37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brfc7 Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Martin, If you are doing away with F4 then make a former/motor mount the right size for your motor and then glue that at the back of your fuz that has been shortened the length of the motor If you look up a few posts you'll see my picture of my motor installed on a different former but still with the original F4 so my motor is hidden from above which I think looks much smarter rather than having the motor on show. baz Edited By brfc7 on 20/02/2014 21:16:02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 I certainly moved the motor back, and left the motor on show. Although I am not certain now, I think i just moved the former for the motor back. Having written that, I now think that I checked that the motor mount fitted onto the former. Unlike brfc7, I have no aesthetic issues with the motor being on show,contrarily, I think it looks good. Also from a practical point of view, the motor receives excellent cooling and the motor wires are easier to arrange for correct motor rotation. One more thought, i use wing mounted servos, not torque rods. If torque rods are used, there may be a minimum or practically convenient dimension at this point. If so, that could determine the minimum size for the motor mount former. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brfc7 Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Posted by Erfolg on 20/02/2014 22:30:52: Unlike brfc7, I have no aesthetic issues with the motor being on show,contrarily, I think it looks good. Also from a practical point of view, the motor receives excellent cooling and the motor wires are easier to arrange for correct motor rotation. Never been an issue of overheating the motor on any of the 6 or 7 PC's other members of my club have built with enclosed motors Also if you look at my last picture above I can't see how the wires could be any easier to change not being enclosed as their still going to be in the same place baz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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