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November 2013`s Magazine is here.


Kevin Fairgrieve
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Phew! It's arrived just in time to take with me back to the UK this afternoon!! SWMBO is running the B'ham 1/2 Marathon Sunday! Me? No - I'll be having a bacon buttie while I patiently stand and wait!

Thanks for the dials - much appreciated! Nicely done and quality printing - they will be very useful in the near future.

Mag - looks full of stuff that I will read with interest during the next few days - Lots of articles by 'famous' (or 'infamous' columnists too - great!

Terry

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A good magazine. The editorial is great as usual and all the reviews are good from what I have seen.

For Pete Lowe, it is fine to say 'electric engine' since an engine is a machine (with moving parts) which converts power into motion, the term motor is just a synonym. And an excellent article as always. Danny Fenton's scale tips are ever the more useful and entertaining to read about so all in all it is good.

How lucky we are to have such a top quality editorial team and content producers in the magazine.

CS

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I read danny fenton's article with great interest, especially the leader about finding centres of gravity on models and checking them.

My method to check c of gs is to use the fingertip method to approximate the c of g then fine tune it as follows.

I use a picture hook made out of about 2mm diameter copper or brass. Mark the position of the cof g accurately on the fuselage fore and aft centre line and epoxy a doubler of 3mm ply inside underneath the mark.

Drill a 1 mm hole through the outside through the doubler and screw the the picture hook into it from the outside.

Hang the model up by the picture hook from the ceiling or other fixed point and let the model settle.

Whichever way the model hangs in equilibrium apply weights to the opposite extremity until it balances as per the instructions, this method can be used for the main centre of gravity and also the lateral c of g.

Take the temporary weights off and epoxy/bolt/whatever an equal amount of weight out of sight in the same position you placed the temporary weights.

If the model is badly out of balance the inside of a matchbox double sided taped to the airframe in the relevant position can be used to hold the weights whilst you fine tune the airframe, physically holding the plane in the right attitude until the weights take over.

It is actually easier done than said.

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Nice to see Jim Archer being remembered in Danny's column for his Vanessa c. of g. rig.

I too have no idea whether Jim devised it or just popularised it. I corresponded with Jim a lot, and met him at Wings and Wheels once. I don't recall him ever mentioning Vanessa, it was only after he passed away that I first came across any references to it.

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Nice to see an article about helicopters in the mag - I think we cannot surpress this part of our hobby. I agree to what has been said about sizes and stability in flight, but I think for somebody who wants to have a first contact with this kind of flying machine a good quality 450 size model will do the job and limit the expenses. For me as important as the build of such a heli is the set-up. A lot of people give up because a heli with bad set-up is almost impossible to fly. Don't know what Steve is planning for the next articles, one about the mechanical setup and the programming will for sure be of help for many beginners.

Just started to fly helis, using an old 450 of my boys collection, and I have to say it is exiting when you manage your first circles and bring the machine home in one piece.

VA, heli department

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Heli bit will help me. Although can fly Helis, setting them up still baffles me, although got my 130x quite well set up, but needed a helpful heli expert to fine tweak the settings.

Next year will dig out my Rapter and get a larger heli. I can fly helis ok, but not 3D yet. So on the basis of that will get a scale body heli and a aerobatic, both 450+ sizes and micro.

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