john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 Don't that sound good John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 28, 2014 Author Share Posted November 28, 2014 Enjoyed that Terry thanks for sharing Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 Thank you Lord Terry. That brought back some long lost memories. Next time we're in the Members' Bar in the House, remind me to buy you a pint. Don't spill it though, Guinness stains the ermine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 John - that was a real treat thanks - good start to Sat morning! Danny - thought you might like that one! Colin - I'll dust off me robes! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Chaps, Can any confirm that the tailplane spar should be symetrical? Looks like mine is warped!! The spar was rotated 180 degrees and i get this Kind Regards SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 They sometimes move when cut from a sheet SW, cut another from your plan John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nev Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 I hope they're symmetrical, I fitted one of mine upside down! Had to recut the hinge slots but other than that I don't think it matters too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 SW is referring to the tailplane spar not the wing trailing edge Nev. I reckon it should be symmetrical, or. As near as possible CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Herron Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Hi Danny has any one thought about an open /close canopy i see Mick Reeves does a sliding tube, Im just starting my upper fus or am i getting way to ambitious when i see every body else's progress i thinks it's brill. Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Hi Nigel, yes a couple have asked to see it done. I am still in two minds about doing it. Mick does indeed do some 1/4" brass square section that is slotted. There is however a much lighter and more accurate way of doing it. This is my BT Hurricane it has a sliding canopy. The rails are made from aluminium square section which has the slot cut using a dremel. I can show you how to do this if people are interested? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Danny I would certainly like to see how its done, hope you are doing it on yours. Would it be possible to use some "Plastruct" square section for the rails or would that not be durable / strong enough ?? Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 If you've got the time then yes please Danny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatscoleymo Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Danny - I'd like to see how it's done too. I bought some of Mick's tube in anticipation, but would like to see your alternative way. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Timmis Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Danny Yes please. That cockpit looks so real. This is like having a "Make it scale' column every day or two. Fabulous. Cheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Thanks Guys, We will have to see how I feel when i get to that point This was the jig to make the rails, its very simple, and could be used to make the slot in styrene I am sure. Alloy square section works very well and is lighter and stronger than styrene IMO. The section is turned through 180 degrees and fed back through to ensure the slot is central. The runners are "I" beam section styrene Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Hi Danny What dimension aluminium section would you suggest for the Chippie ? Also do you source the blue foam from a model or builders supplies ? Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 ""I" beam section styrene" What's that then Danny and where do you normally source it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 Hi Chaps, such enthusiasm for sliding rails The aluminium square section I used on the Hurricane was 1/8 x 1/8 I have shown a link to where I get my K&S metal strip from before. Again, I have no connection with Macc Models, but they are always very prompt and always seem to have stock. There are no doubt others that can supply the material. For the Chipmunk you will need three strips, Bought four to allow for errors I said "I" beam section styrene I have checked and its "H" beam that works better. I find this section works well with Canopy runners as it has a wider base than "I" for gluing the canopy. You can use small bolt heads too but they are not so easy to hide. With 1/8 (3.2mm) sq alloy I use 1.5mm "H" section. I use Evergreen Styrene usually from the train model shops. Here is a link to the styrene on Sherwood Models site. If anybody needs some slotted square section and doesn't want to do it themselves let me know and I will cut some, you just need to cover my postage and a pint of beer Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 Sorry Martin missed your question off the list. Blue foam I used to get from Sheffield Insulations, Styrofoam SP-X it was 2.5 mtrs x 600 mm for about a tenner. However it is no longer manufactured I have yet to find another source of blue foam and the need will become more urgent as my stock dwindles away. Does anybody know of a spec that is similar? Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 02/12/2014 09:20:52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Danny Thanks for the details. I ended up getting all the bits from 4D modelshop (no personal connection) but they had everything I needed including some tools. The foam they have is Blue Styrofoam, which I hope is correct I just bought a small piece to give it a go on the fairings. Larger sheets look to be nearly as much again to ship !!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 I don't know the specs on blue/pink but pink is easily sourced..insulation board local diy shops, a big sheet cost £6 ish and it's very light. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 There is blue styrofoam and there is blue styrofoam. The stuff I am using is made by DOW. Without doing a comparison with other foams I cannot comment on whether the pink from B and Q and the likes is as nice. I guess I will have to buy some and see. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Day Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 I'm sure that wheel sizes and sources were discussed earlier but I'm blowed if I can find anything. The tailwheel should be 33mm (approx) but what should the mainwheels be and has anyone identified a good source of appropriate/realistic ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 3, 2014 Author Share Posted December 3, 2014 Hi Nigel, I went for DuBro 3 inch jobs, but with hind sight they are heavy so may get changed for some foam ones from my LHS in Hong Kong Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 They where from H.K Nigel, I remember it Its like trawling the Atlantic finding the bits n bobs now, we should have had them in an accessories thread John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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