Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 TBH - yes its less than ideal. And it would be much better if it was straight and square. But "lesson learned" hopefully - think and measure, not twice, not three times, but four times,... then apply the glue,....and then check again before its set! But you know - it won't be a disaster with this model - just carry on. OK it might need a bit of TLC at the trimming stage - and it might always have a few funny "traits" when you try to do complicated stuff with it - but hey ho - it will be fine for want you want to do with it - i.e. learn to fly! For future - if you are unsure about any step - just ask - before you do it! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Thank you - I'll just leave it. To be clear, I've always known what I need to do, it's the execution that is the problem. Edited By Nelmo on 03/11/2014 21:30:54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Hi Nelmo, I admire your tenacity, keep going. You must realize that most of us started out like you, with all the inherent problems, and for the older guys there was no internet, forums for help. LoL. The day will come when you will see your hard work taking off for the first time, and boy what a feeling that is. Cheers FB3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 What's the bike Nelmo? This is my latest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 You've cheated by washing your bike before taking the pic - looks great! Mine is a Honda NC700X and because I mainly commute (when I'm in work), it always looks a right mess. I service it myself and so when I started the modelling, I thought, no problem, I've already got a load of tools - before realising that 25mm sockets aren't going to be much use for a 2cc engine (or whatever it is) This is from a rare camping weekend trip this summer - great weather this year: (Sorry for going off topic everyone). Edited By Nelmo on 04/11/2014 09:17:01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 OK, putting the prop on and my instructions usefully say. 'Attach the propellor' - great, thanks for that. I think the pic below is the correct order but would like confirmation - not quite sure if the metal washer/disc thing should go between prop and nut or prop and backplate, as shown: Also, there seem to be 2 basic positions the prop can fit into the backplate - one has it flush against the backplate which seems best but it then potentially has more ability to swivel if loose. The other way seems to hold it a few mm off the backplate but with less room to swivel if loose. Not sure if that makes sense... Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Nearly! Backplate -prop- washer - nut - Then tighten finger tight. Check that the spinner can be screwed on propery... remove spinner.. tighten RIGHT UP!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 If you can try and start the motor by hand using a chicken stick all the time. Those spinners are terribly soft and chew up badly in the face of a fast spinning electric starter...it can get messy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Thanks Stevo.... Was not planning on using a starter - after watching a few videos of people starting manually so easily, I don't quite understand the need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 when you fit the prop turn the engine anti clockwise (viewed from the front) by hand until you hit the compression stroke. Then, fit the propeller so the blades are at about 2.40 (imagine a clock face) as this will help with hand starting. Hand starting is an art and required the correct prep before the engine will go. But we can deal with that later. The other thing to check is that the cut out in the spinner is big enough to clear the prop completely. if you don't the spinner will either not sit straight and wobble all over, or can cut in to the blade roots and might cause a failure of the blade at high rpm...which would be alarming to say the least Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Thanks Jon but...er... how do I know when I'm on the compression stroke? Piston at its lowest point, presumably? Do I just look into the cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Turn the prop anti clockwise ... as soon as its starts to get tough you are on the compression stroke! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 As Steve said, you could also take out the glow plug ( 8mm box spanner) and put a BBQ skewer in. TDC will be reached when the skewer is at its highest point. Here is a thread about hand starting a 2st Edited By cymaz on 09/11/2014 22:35:14 Edited By cymaz on 09/11/2014 22:35:46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Posted by Nelmo on 09/11/2014 18:08:19: OK, putting the prop on and my instructions usefully say. 'Attach the propellor' - great, thanks for that. I think the pic below is the correct order but would like confirmation - not quite sure if the metal washer/disc thing should go between prop and nut or prop and backplate, as shown: Also, there seem to be 2 basic positions the prop can fit into the backplate - one has it flush against the backplate which seems best but it then potentially has more ability to swivel if loose. The other way seems to hold it a few mm off the backplate but with less room to swivel if loose. Not sure if that makes sense... Any ideas? When it's all tightened up, make sure that the cutouts in the spinner cone are actually clear of the prop blades. If they're not, the cone will distort as it's secured with the screws and will (over time) damage the face of the prop blades. You may need to carefully open up the blade cutouts in the cone with a modelling knife or Dremel to get adequate clearance. "Was not planning on using a starter - after watching a few videos of people starting manually so easily, I don't quite understand the need" Although not 'rocket science' hand starting an engine does require a certain knack - especially if the motor is brand new and tight. Like a lot of things in aeromodelling what looks to be simple has a bit more to it than meets the eye. A starter is not a necessity, but when you're over the flying field in the freezing cold, with freezing fingers and your motor is resisting all efforts by hand, a starter is a godsend. If you can get someone to show you how to start and tune the engine it'll be much easier to see what's going on........then of course there's running the motor in, a subject that will be sure to fill a few paragraphs Edited By Cuban8 on 10/11/2014 07:55:35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Posted by Nelmo on 09/11/2014 22:06:43: Thanks Jon but...er... how do I know when I'm on the compression stroke? Piston at its lowest point, presumably? Do I just look into the cylinder? Sorry nelmo, I forgot that you might not understand that as its something we all take for granted. But, stevo is quite right. If you fit a glow plug turn the engine over until you feel a resistance. As it happens this will be the liner pinching up at the top of the stroke and not compression at this stage but that's not important. Just remember to turn anticlockwise when viewed from the front. We can go through the starting procedure when you are nearer the time to start up. As has been said, hand starting requires a certain technique and if the engine dosent start its behaviour can give you clues as to why. You need to understand these clues and then what steps are needed to rectify the situation. The same is true when the engine is in the air. Many people say glow engines are unreliable, this is untrue. Glow engines (good ones anyway, I don't mean MDS etc) will be 99% reliable if set up correctly, and this is where most people go wrong. Edited By Jon Harper on 10/11/2014 08:46:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jez Harris 1 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Hi. Just a quick point - but something to be aware of when using your motor - the type of prop you are using APC - have very sharp edges so be careful when rotating it - especially when you are turning it backwards against compression. I had to have a few stitches in a couple of fingers a few years back as I slid my hand down the back of the blade.. Jez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Jez is right. deflash the prop leading/trailing edges and tips with 400 wet and dry paper. Don't go mad, just enough to remove any sharpness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Trebor, Here is the video I made. Your picture showing the prop and nuts...it should go engine backplate,blue spinner backplate,prop(the size stamp facing the front),thick steel prop washer, nut, spinner cone. Edited By cymaz on 10/11/2014 17:29:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 OK, prop on ok (I hope) - thanks for all the advice. Next problem - I bought an on/off switch from a model shop and I think the guy asked me what model of transmitter it was for, but maybe he didn't - can't quite recall. Anyway, came to plug the switch into the receiver and it doesn't fit - seems to have a little extra bit of plastic moulding on the side which makes it too big (see pic below): So, is it normal for an on/off switch to be transmitter-specific? Can I get away with trimming off that little extra plastic lip (just on the right of the plug in the pic) or is that dodgy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 that tab is used to make sure the plug is not put in the wrong way around. If you use futaba gear then they will have this tab and are designed to accept it. Almost all other brands do not use the tab and so you can very carefully trim it off. What radio are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Such nicely manicured nails, too Yep - it doesn't fit, does it ! Don't worry, that's a Futaba plug, and no doubt you are trying to plug it into a JR or Spektrum receiver or similar. Take to it with a pair of wire cutters and take off that tab on the side. Job done! I will add that if you do connect it round the wrong way, you won't damage anything, it simply wont work. Edited By Stevo on 10/11/2014 17:56:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Yup, it Is spektrum - and I would have told the bloke in the shop that, assuming he asked Thanks, i will get trimming... Glad you like the nails - i had to take that pic with my nose because i could not hold the phone and press the button with one hand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prop Nut Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 He didn't ask because he (wrongly) assumed you'd know that it's a universal fitting - or it is when you cut off the pesky tab. I found out the same way as you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 if you are using spectrum I hope he sold you a 6v receiver battery... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 What is the best way to attach the receivers? My spektrum has 2 receivers, connected with a 6" wire (to improve signal pick-up, says the manual). The manual shows a picture with the smaller receiver on the fuse wall but doesn't suggest how it stays there - glue? I'd imagine you'd want to be able to move it, if necessary? It also suggests wrapping the battery and main receiver in foam and velcro. I was thinking to glue the velcro to the body but should I not be doing that, just wedging it in? Not sure if that would be secure enough... Suggestions appreciated.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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