Pete B Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 There you go, Jon....Code of Conduct Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Ok, engine in and looking much better - very slight offset to the right and bolted in nicely. Servos in and the switch (real pig to do with my fat fingers) and feathers glued in (thats the right terminology for the fin and rear wingy bit, right?). Looking more like a plane now... Oh yeah, and just to point out that the same b-word I used is in this month's RCME mag (pg. 50 under the title 'Fly in the ointment'. If it' s good enough for them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Nelmo - I suggest that you read the CoC urgently! As even obscured swear words are banned as well - which you keep repeating! We have an absolutely zero tolerance policy in this area. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 What the editor chooses to allow in the magazine is up to him, Nelmo - there are a stricter set of rules here as this is a much 'looser' medium and so it is easier for us to have a 'zero tolerance' policy. I'd also recommend that you read the whole of the C of C, particularly the section on discussing moderator decisions on the forum, please..... Now, back to the build.... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Posted by Nelmo on 23/10/2014 21:58:10: Ok, engine in and looking much better - very slight offset to the right and bolted in nicely. Servos in and the switch (real pig to do with my fat fingers) and feathers glued in (thats the right terminology for the fin and rear wingy bit, right?). Looking more like a plane now... Birds have feathers Verticle and horizontal stabilisers I know them as. Please excuse the US spelling Edited By cymaz on 23/10/2014 22:35:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 I think he means tail feathers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 Stabilisers - right, got it As requested, some pics for critical appraisal: That troublesome engine mount - note it is now black (the original one is blue): Half-term next week so unlikely to get much done...kids will need entertaining (and the sight of me drilling holes in my hand probably isn't ideal ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Oh that is sooooo shiny and clean! With your internal switch make sure push in is for "on". That way you can't accidentally turn it off when carrying out to the strip. Also make sure the charging fly lead from the switch is easily accessible for field charging and checking battery voltage and condition. No criticism - just friendly advice Edited By cymaz on 24/10/2014 15:39:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Looking OK so far! One thing though, I notice that you have mounted the switch on the main servo board, that will mean you having to take the wing off to turn it on and off - not ideal! You could leave the switch where it is, then connect a short length of stiff wire to the switch which then runs to the outside of the fuselage. That way pushing the wire in and out turns the model one and off. Or you could move the switch and mount it on the side of the fuselage so you can operate it and so turn the model on/off directly from outside. If you do the later, then mount the switch on the side opposite to the engine exhaust so it doesn't get covered in "slime"! (Or perhaps more accurately get covered in less slime ) BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Great minds think alike Cymaz! BEB Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 24/10/2014 15:43:11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Gorham_ Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 I always mount my Rx switches internally, it's especially helpful when flying off water in keeping spray out of them. I don't like to use stiff wire to actuate the switch, I prefer two small lengths of nylon monofilament fishing line looped through the hole in the switch dolly. One length comes through the port fuselage side and the other length out of the starboard. It's pull one side for on and pull the other for off. Experience has shown that rigid wire can vibrate when the engine is running, transferring that vibration to the switch and it can also be prone to being knocked when the model is in the car on the way to the field, flattening the battery. My method is very unobtrusive too - the monofil. is hardly visible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 When I started out in this wonderful hobby of ours (way before the internet) I bought a copy of Boddo's 'Building and Flying R/C Model Aircraft'. Sadly now out of print (I still have mine though). Can I suggest that although we live in the internet age, a beginner invests a few quid in one of the similar books that are available and reads it from cover to cover before embarking on a build? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 My mistake, still available **LINK** Worth every penny IMHO. Ignore the comments about it being old fashioned, the basics of aeromodelling (especially for the beginner ) remain unchanged. Edited By Cuban8 on 24/10/2014 16:32:32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Posted by cymaz on 23/10/2014 22:33:19: Verticle and horizontal stabilisers I know them as. Please excuse the US spelling Tailplane and fin are the usual British terms! ... and as regards remote switches, at risk of confusing Nelmo, I always rig mine up to push off and pull on! That way you don't end up with a flat battery because you've switched it off by mistake loading the model into the car! I always check that the controls are still working just before take off and "Push Off!" is easy to remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 The instructions actually show a switch with a wire going through the fuselage - however, the switch wasn't in the kit (not clear if it was supposed to be there). When I went to a model shop and explained, the guy said it wasn't essential to have that and sold me just that normal switch. Being cynical, maybe he didn't have one with the hole for the wire... And the switch has 'OFF' and 'ON' molded into it, so hopefully, i should be able to work it out. Edited By Nelmo on 24/10/2014 17:01:53 Edited By Nelmo on 24/10/2014 17:04:51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 I usually bin most of the engine mounts that come with these as I usually fit four strokes. However I've two ARTFs that use that blue 'jelly' engine mount with no problem. I end up re-drilling the bulkhead and making a load of work for myself! How are we doing now? Have you a new mount? I usually buy a few at a time of different manufacturers and just keep them in a drawer for a best fit. Why is the servo incorrect in the wing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Posted by David Davis on 24/10/2014 16:54:17: ...That way you don't end up with a flat battery because you've switched it off by mistake loading the model into the car! I meant, " ...switched it on by mistake...!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 Posted by Stevo on 24/10/2014 17:58:20: How are we doing now? Have you a new mount? I usually buy a few at a time of different manufacturers and just keep them in a drawer for a best fit. Why is the servo incorrect in the wing? Yes, got a new mount - same as the old one (except colour), I just filed it down to get the engine in neatly before drilling the holes. First servo I ever installed and I didn't know to use the rubber grommets and brass sleeves - just need to unscrew it and put those bits on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Aargghh - made yet another mistake - looks like the tailplane isn't glued in straight I measured it all as the instructions said. However, the instructions advised doing all the markings and cuttings from the top side of the elevator which has a very pretty pattern on it but is useless if you're trying to line something up. On the underside, however, is a very useful checked pattern with straight lines - why didn't they advise using that to help line it up? This is the result: Not sure of my options now - can adjustments be made with the setup of the servo/horn to counter it (seems unlikely)? Can i un-glue it and try again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 It doesn't look too bad in the photograph but to be certain, measure the distance between the front dowels and the tip of the tailplane. I use the left-hand dowel with the right hand tailplane tip and vice versa for some reason, but I don't suppose it matters. Ideally the measurement should be the same, but providing the difference is less than about 5mm, I don't think that it will matter very much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelmo Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Got all excited, went and measured - 9mm difference - that sounds bad to me... Edited By Nelmo on 03/11/2014 15:00:09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Ofcourse if you are familiar with models and tx & rx etc ,its dead easy but if like this guy a novice well he needs to leave the job alone and seek help like his model shop who would be more than happy to advise or a club where I am sure there will be an abundance of advice .,but don't try doing things if you don't know what you are doing you'r model will last a matter of seconds .but good luck . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Don't stress nelmo, while far from ideal it will not make too much difference on a trainer. The worst you will get is a bit of screwing out of loops etc which is a little way down the road. When it comes to glueing my tails on I NEVER measure them as I always get hopelessly confused due to tiny inaccuracies in each component. I install the main wings and tail before walking a good 10-15 feet away and sighting head on through the wings and tail to see how straight they are before tweaking as required. When happy with that I stand up on a chair to look down on the model and just do it by eye. basically, if its wonkey enough to be seen its too wonkey. If you cant see it then you are just fine. I have used this method on every model I have ever built and am yet to get a bent one. As for your switch leaving it as is with a rod would be perfectly ok. the alternative is to mount it in the side of the fuse but if you do this make sure you mount it on the side opposite to the exhaust. In any event, keep building. you are still climbing the steepest part of the learning curve so mistakes are inevitable. Look on the bright side, every mistake on this model is a mistake you will not make with the next Edited By Jon Harper on 03/11/2014 15:20:28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Just seen you'r pic of the tail plane .you can see it is on sque whiff,just line the leading edge of the elevator up with the tail of the fuse then it will be straight more or less .It is out quite a few deg..I had an Arising Star and it is a fairly easy thing to put together ,you need to not touch anything except the manual read and digest before touching anything , that's my advice .for what it's worth . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Nelmo, you have two choices. You either reposition the tail or leave it as it is. If you chose to reposition the tailplane, you'll need to break the glue joint. To do this I would use a long, sharp, thin knife, something like a vegetable knife, and cut away the glue joint until the tail is free then re-glue it with half hour epoxy. Bernie's idea of getting an experienced modeller to help you is sound too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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