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A Little Atom, A Medium Mossie and a Big Cub


Chris Barlow
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After playing with the slats I concluded that the proposed 1/2" of movement probably wouldn't open up the slot enough to be effective. The linear movement for the flaps is 17mm so to simplify horn lengths I decided to make the slat movement 17mm as well. This also meand that the torque tube will now be in the center of the wing thickness to get the high, slightly downward angle for the slat pushrods.

I started by cutting the 8mm carbon tube bearings and lite ply supports. Unused servo horns were also cut down and drilled out to a tight fir on the 6mm carbon tube

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After careful positioning these were glued to the wing ribs. Servo mounts and spruce blocks were also glued in for the wing and jury struts.

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After a break for food & playing with the kids before bedtime (well I needed something to do whilst the glue dried) the flap/slat servo tray was screwed in and connected up

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A GF horn was made for the flap which was taped in place and a pushrod made up to connect it to the tube.

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Pushrods were then made up to connect the slat slides to the tube

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So the complete arrangement looks like this

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Now to find out if it works or just jams up!

Flaps up, slats closed...

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Flaps down, slats open....

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End on view looks like there's probably enough movement

Flaps...

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Slats...

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and the torque tube (wing is upside down)

Flaps down...

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Flaps up...

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So although it doesn't look like much this slight modification to the design has taken up the best part of a week, and there's still the other wing to do yet!

It might not make a big difference to the performance of the cub, it might not even work, but I'm happy I kept to the specification I have in my head & didn't allow myself to compromise and go for an easier setup.

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks Josip I don't know about awe though, probably more like humour!

It's been a few weeks since any updates but I haven't been slacking! The second wing has had the torque tube installed and linkages set up and both wing tips laminated up. I've also been flying most evenings and weekends so progress has slowed a little.

The wing tube has now been lined up and installed in the fuselage and carbon locating dowels near the trailing edge fitted. Lighting has also been installed in the wings and together with servo connections would make a lot of plugging in before flying. To simplify this and just for the challenge the connections have been made through multiplex plugs in the wing seat which will plug in when the wing is married to the fuselage. Captive muts have also been fitted to the root rib so the wing is held in place with 2 M6 nylon wing bolts from inside the fuselage.

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Doesn't look like much but all the soldered connections are now done.

This weekend I got on with fabricating the undercarriage and started with making myself a stronger and more long term wire bender.

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This all metal version is more capable of bending the 9g and 10g wire needed. With the new bender it didn't take long to produce the parts needed ready for soldering.

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These were cleaned and bound together with desoldering braid and then soldered together. I decided to go with a functional bungee connection for the lower brace, mainly because I fancied the challenge! I cross drilled some brass tube that was a good fit over the wire, passed a short length of wire through it to make a "T" then soldered it to the u/c

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The DuBro inflatable wheels were then fitted to the 9g axles on brass bushes with a single collet inside the two halves of the wheel. The tyre was then fitted and the 2 halves bolted together. The assembled undercarriage was then fitted to the fuselage with conventional saddle clamps.

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The bungees and covering boots will be added later!

A quick check of the balance shows it to be massively nose heavy and a quick check of the plan reveals 6oz of ballast is needed in the tail! Because of this the next job will be to relocate the fuselage servos and flight batteries to the rear of the cockpit with a service hatch under the floor!

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Work of art, Sir..work of art

P.S. I used bicycle inner tube for u/c bungee boots, works a treat. Just remember to leave it bunched up when the legs are at rest.

Edited By cymaz on 04/05/2015 06:49:10

Edited By cymaz on 04/05/2015 06:49:32

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Cymaz, I was thinking of rubber bicycle inner tube for the boots too!

Colin, Insomnia can be a handy affliction sometimes!

Paul, I'll make you one. Got plenty of plate left. It needs a slight redesign so that the handle doesn't clash with the base plate but that's just an extra drilled & tapped hole.

John, the cover is just plain grey like the wheels. The Cub is going to be more like a custom Valdez job so I might omit the covers, turn the bolts around & leave the nuts on show.

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Learning some lessons here Chris. My next but one build, maybe next but two, has functional flaps and slats so some very useful tips here. The wire bender will be a God send mate couldn't do without mine now. Personally I would've brazed that under carriage, but only because I can cheeky thanks to a £100 present of an oxygen/gas torch from the better half, God she's good to me occasionally wink

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Learning some lessons here Chris. My next but one build, maybe next but two, has functional flaps and slats so some very useful tips here. The wire bender will be a God send mate couldn't do without mine now. Personally I would've brazed that under carriage, but only because I can cheeky thanks to a £100 present of an oxygen/gas torch from the better half, God she's good to me occasionally wink

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Phil, I was 50/50 whether to braze the U/C which I would usually do 10g & over with a plumbing torch & mapp gas, but with the addition of the thinner wire and some tags that still need to be done I went with silver solder & desoldering braid.

So not only do you have the Keter work bench I'm after but an Oxy Acetylene torch as well! I'm propper jelous! wink

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Chris its not an oxyacetylene but oxy map gas, much safer and cheaper, Arguably,

there are 3 varieties out there

the oxyturbo 90 110 and 200 kits, all a bit pricier than

the Eutectic/Castolin sets (which I have)

and a Swiss made set the name of which escapes me

the oxyturbo are slightly more rugged and favored by roofers for lead welding where as the Eutectic sets are very suitable for DIY use in small workshops, both have fully interchangeable fuel/oxygen bottles and nozzles and the delicacy of the flame with the micro nozzles is a real boon when silver soldering/brazing small parts. as a trial I used mine to both braze and weld 3mm mild steel bar, and braze 16g piano wire and it does both admirably with just a change of nozzle. You do have to shop around for the best prices for the fuel/oxygene bottle but they do last pretty well in a small workshop environment.

Edited By Phil Winks on 05/05/2015 19:10:37

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Posted by Chris Barlow on 05/05/2015 19:16:14:

Thanks for that link Phil.

It's now in my watch list awaiting approval from the house treasurer. laugh

Aside from the £'s I wonder what this is going to cost me???

I wouldn't like to think fella probably something equally costly.

If your going for the Eutectic set, I'd suggest you need these or these as that set only comes with one large No 4 or 5 nozzle, great for welding up to 3mm but over the top for delicate brazing and silver solder jobs, and it uses a lot of Gas, I have the 1st set sizes are the same, prices are the same and those look far more robust to me also the holder doubles as a key to change the nozzles.

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