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1/3rd Classic Scale Tiger Moth -


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Posted by Martyn K on 19/03/2015 09:26:09:

Hi Jez

Lovely work..

 

How do you hold small parts together when silver soldering? I know you need at least 4 hands..

Martyn

 

I tend to use 2 vices = one holds a pair of mole grips that contain the main bit - the other will have either more mole grips or some other grips. Its proper bodging at times as I use whatever is at hand to wedge things in place to support various bits.

 

Here's an example from another thread...not pretty but it does the job!!

 

ila_rendered

Jez

Edited By Jez Harris 1 on 19/03/2015 21:35:17

Edited By Jez Harris 1 on 19/03/2015 21:39:01

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Nice engineering great kit. Will look great when finished. I have the classic scale Tiggy 72" kit but as it was inherited with the fus almost complete the wing plans are missing for some reason. Can anyone help with a loan or copy of the said item I will pay cost and p&p.I can get a set from classic Scale but at £ 38 a set they are too rich for my little pension I might be able to struggle through without but some bits in kit I do not recognise. Plese HEEELP. This will be my 4th Tiggyv starting back in the 50s with a rubber job about 18" span Either Kiel Kraft or Veron . May even be Mercury or even none of these. The last one was the one in Aeromodeller. Hope someone can help. Thanks for reading

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Re the exhaust connecting there may be some plumbing, gas or air control fittings which may help you out.. There are myriads of weird and wonderful fittings that can get you round all sorts of bends and curves. Many air control fittings are alloy and very light. Give it a try.

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Posted by Jez Harris 1 on 19/03/2015 21:31:28:
Posted by Martyn K on 19/03/2015 09:26:09:

Hi Jez

Lovely work..

How do you hold small parts together when silver soldering? I know you need at least 4 hands..

Martyn

I tend to use 2 vices = one holds a pair of mole grips that contain the main bit - the other will have either more mole grips or some other grips. Its proper bodging at times as I use whatever is at hand to wedge things in place to support various bits.

Here's an example from another thread...not pretty but it does the job!!

ila_rendered

Jez

Edited By Jez Harris 1 on 19/03/2015 21:35:17

Edited By Jez Harris 1 on 19/03/2015 21:39:01

Ah - the photo is very helpful - thanks. I tried using a helping hands but this just wrecked the springs on the croc clips.

I'll try your way next time.

Martyn

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  • 2 months later...

Wow - I can't believe its been 10 weeks since my last posting on this build!!

The rebuild of my 1/4 scale cub got in the way a bit, then I decided to do a quick wot 4, plus some flying, - I had my first go at float planes - its great!

I've also dabbled in leccy stuff with a Crack Yak build and a couple of other foamies including a slope wing and a Radjet.

Anyway - Since stuffing the D8 in at Greenacres due to a duff switch, I've decided to crack on with this one!

I got the engine and tank in..

pictures 001.jpg

It all lines up ok...

pictures 002.jpg

The cowl cheeks all line up nicely too. I'm replacing the top cowl for a lithoplate one as the supplied ABS one isnt a great fit.

pictures 003.jpg

I still need to create some sort of connector between the exhaust port and the exhaust/engine mount. I will be using copper piping to do this. In this shot you can se the lower cowl piece in place - scope here to add a fake exhaust system.

pictures 006.jpg

Jez

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The cowls open fully on both sides allowing great access to the motor. A clearer shot here of the missing manifold - I will buy a couple of flanges from somewhere and use copper gas pipes and elbows I think.

pictures 007.jpg

Moving on now to a little bit of finishing off the rudder and tailplane -

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The Moth is full of bits you can spend a bit of time trying to replicate..

Here's a shot of a full size undergoing restoration - you can see the rudder is full of all sorts of bits and pieces that appear as lumps and bumps - mainly they are gussets that reinforce where the frame is welded together. At the nose of the rudder is a bump that allows you to add ballast to balance the rudder..restoration project.jpg

I want to copy these and the easiest way is to use a bit of thin cardboard - a cereal box to be exact. I used a few bits of paper as templates to get the shapes right as they have to fold around the metal outline of the rudder..

pictures 010.jpg

These were glued in place...and thin cyano used to stiffen them up..

pictures 011.jpg

They look about right..

pictures 012.jpg

so it was on with a bit of covering..If I could do covering of models as a full time job I would be a very happy bunny indeed - I love it!! Basic covering first off with silver solartex..

pictures 013.jpg

Then its out with a tube of glue and a bodged together set of nozzles..

pictures 014.jpg

For a bit of fake stitching..

pictures 015.jpg

Jez

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When dry, its just a simple matter of tearing strips of tex to add as rib tapes and edge tapes..

pictures 016.jpg

Washers glued in place then covered add more scale detail..

pictures 017.jpg

and the fin is done to match - no stitching here so dead easy..the fin post is wrapped in a spiral as per the fullsize.

pictures 018.jpg

Thats it for now - starting a new job on monday so fingers crossed I will be able to do as much tinkering as possible - possibly not though...sad

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Looking great Jezzer!!

How are you fastening the top cowl on? On the ones I did, the top cowl was attached to the other half of the hinge that is fastened to the side doors. Then, in effect, a leaf (x3 each side) of the hinge was cut out so they were separate to the other two bits. These 3 new leaves were used to fasten the whole lot to the frame. This means that with the removal of the two hinge pins, the whole top and sides are removable. The bottom cowl tray is hinged from the rear so can swing down for total access, is this shown on the plan?

Covering looks grand too!!

Ian.

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Hi Ian,

Ahh - I see what you mean - mine is the earlier kit and the fixing method is to attach the hinges of the side cheeks to the top of the engine bay rails. The top of the cowl is attached with two wooden beams fixed to the bottom of the cheeks - these are affixed to the engine bay rails - still removable but not as quickly as your method!!

Yes the bottom is hinged.

Cheers for the feedback - see you on Sunday at Warbirds over the fens!

 

Jez

Edited By Jez Harris 1 on 05/06/2015 21:23:43

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Hello Jez

I got hold of a old pilot 1/4 scale Tiger Moth a few months ago. Was partly build, but sitting around since 2003 and in a bad shape. But I am getting there. I have been checking all your photos to what you have done and it's so pleasing to see the way you have mastered this build. I will keep checking in to see how you are going if ok.

Take care

John

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well - I'm chipping away at this a bit at a time...lacking time to keep this thread updated plus some of the stuff I have done such as covering isnt exactly rivetting or different.

Here's the update..

The fus is covered - I have used silver solartex - I bought a 10metre roll for £30 at Gaydon last year so its not too expensive. I reckon in total I will get through 12- 16metres - 4 metres will be used just for rib tapes, edge tapes etc.

dscf0035.jpg

Next up comes the centre section - its a fairly straight forward piece with a couple of sandwiches made from ply and ali and a few brackets.

dscf0037.jpg

The centre section is a surround for a fuel tank. On the full size this sits on a cross brace and is fixed to cross brace at the rear using metal brackets. The tank in my kit is plastic - There were some metal ones available originally and I would love to have one. Anyhow - its got some nice details moulded in and there is scope to improve it further...

dscf0038.jpg

dscf0039.jpg

dscf0040.jpg

dscf0041.jpg

As per the ful size there is some metal work to attach it..

dscf0042.jpg

dscf0043.jpg

dscf0044.jpg

dscf0045.jpg

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So here it is mounted in position - I need to add a few bits of rubber to stop it rattling on the fromt mount - The full size uses the same! I will add the various fuel gauges and other items on the top of the tank later.

dscf0046.jpg

I am going to have a quick go at the fuel piping as I will need to make holes in the fus and cowl for various pipes, shut off controls etc.

This is the first thing I want to replicate..Its the fuel cock - this is the fuel feed pipe and the pilot is able to shut off the fuel by activating the valve.fuel cock and drain 4.jpg

I have got a lathe, nor the ability to use one, so I have to improvise!

A quick root around in the spares boxes produces some useful ideas and some possible components....

dscf0063.jpg

With an old glow plug as a starter, I joined up some nuts, a bit from a filling valve and a piece of scrap metal...

dscf0064.jpg

That'll do!!

dscf0065.jpg

Jez

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More catching up..

The step came out well - It will be scuffed up when the weathering is carried out later..

First the real thing..

footstep.jpg

And mine..The angle looks odd because the step sits on a wonky angle when the tail is up..the step is level only when the tail is on the ground.dscf0036.jpg

The cockpits have seen a bit of work..front..

dscf0048.jpg

And rear - The doors were a pain - I had managed to build all four with the latches at the rear of the doors instead of the fron so I had to remake them all.

dscf0054.jpg

dscf0058.jpg

I will be onto the wings before I know it!.....however I still need to cover the tailplane, hinge the elevators, sort out how to attach the tailplane, paint the undercarriage, finish the cowl, mount the engine, make an exhaust connection...Oh well...it may be a while before I get onto the wings...

Jez

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Posted by fly-navy on 26/06/2015 17:52:57:

Oohhhh that's looking lovely Jez. Might be talking load of bolo's here mate will you be able to get the rudder bar in and through now it's all covered that end, and knowing the size of your maulers the air might be a bit "Ripe" laugh

 

Hi John..yes mate - It wil just slide through - there is a servo sitting ready in the centre console for it..it is a bit tricky to access but its do-able.

I haven't added it yet as the fus still gets roled from side to side occasionally and I will end up with a Z - shaped one knowing me!

Thanks for being my quality control engineer! - The pasties were ace by the way!

Edited By Jez Harris 1 on 27/06/2015 10:00:43

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A little bit more work..

I covered the horizontal stab and made a few brackets and bits of detail..

First off here is the finished sprung tailspring in place...No glue used as all the nuts and bolts do the job as per the full size. The unit bolts through the tailpost holding the fin neatly in place.

pictures 003.jpg

pictures 004.jpg

The nose of the fin will be bolted through this black bracket which in turn is bolted to a bracket mounted at the rear of the fus. (note to self - I must countersink this a touch more!)

pictures 006.jpg

pictures 007.jpg

The rear of the horizontal stab is held on with a pair of brackets that allow for adjustment.

pictures 005.jpg

pictures 010.jpg

The front is bolted to the bracket which holds the fin on..the joint will be hidden by a couple of shrounds and the anti-spin strakes.

pictures 013.jpg

Jez

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Fantastic job Jez.

The two levers in the cockpit should be on the left, they are the elevator trim levers.

If the Tiger you are modelling has slats there should be a similar but smaller lever on the right in the rear cockpit only.

Shout if you need any full-size detail photos.

Gary

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Cheers Gary...great to hear from someone who actually flies these things!

I went on the following picture for guidance but can see now where I went wrong..

view of cockpit showing rh side.jpg

I'm using a CD I bought from t'internet for my reference and although it has 1000's of pictures, its from loads of different aircraft. I guess I would have been better off finding a moth locally and crawling over it with a camera.

I'm also constrained a bit by what is in the kit, this wont ever be a super scale replica of a single aircraft as the kit comes with a certain type of instrument panel and a certain set of instruments - I realise that almost every moth is different- I'm happy just using a great kit to build a plane that looks ace and hopefully flies as well.

Some pictures would be great - especially the cockpit floors to give me the layout of ruddr pedals and all the other gubbins down there.

If you are able I also need good pictures of the underneath of the fus - I havenet been able to find anything at all and I realise there are all sorts of hatches, rubbing bars, bolts, fasteners etc.

Keep the feedback coming - great to have your input!

Jez

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NIce stuff Jez

on the subject of covering and rib tapes et al!!

I have the first batch of tapes ready for delivery, 32 rib tapes and 16 perimeter tapes, that's 2 mtrs gone!! the left overs I will cut some inspection patches and rings ifn you want em mate, the ins patches are great to have in stock they make great authentic repair patches for those little holes that "appear"

chris

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Cheers Chris!

Laser cut pinked rib tapes - perfect!

What width did you cut the rib tapes and perimeter tapes please?

I will definatelty have some rings and patches too - I will give you sizes shortly.

I will need some more rib tapes I think as 4 wings x 10 ribs on each which need top and bottom doing plus the riblets will eat through the 32 you have done in no time - plus there are the tail plane ones too..

What do you reckon?

Jez

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