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Connie are you to much for me?


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Hi Cliff,

I have fancied a "connie" for some time and I'm interested where you downloaded the plan from, also is it an all balsa / plywood build or is it a foam construction, it's difficult to tell from the photos.

I'm looking for a next project the thought has given me some interest.

Regards

Robert

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I'm currently building an 88" wingspan Connie from plans drawn by Philip Noel (bought from a competing magazine company).

I have to agree that a Connie may be quite a difficult build for an inexperienced builder, but you never know until you try, and I'm sure the members here will quite happy to help out with advice if you get stuck.

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No problem Robert. if you decide to go ahead i would be interested to hear how you get on. if you decide to look into laser cutting maybe we could go in together if this reduces cost?

Andy, i looked at the one you are building and it looks very nice but its a bit to big for me as I want to do electric.I also thought it was a bit expensive for the parts pack and considering how much else you have to buy it would push the cost up a lot. All the best with the build.

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If its going to be an all sheeted fuselage - then you want to avoid as much weight at the tail end as possible - the formers don't add any significant strength that's the function of the sheeting/longerons, the formers are there to give everything else its shape, so either use balsa or if you want to use lite ply, then remove most of the inside of the former

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The more I look at this the more tempted I am getting! Maybe if I reduced it by half? with fixed uc HMMMM!

I was thinking about the fuselage and concidering cutting all the formers in half vertically. Then laying on the plan top and bottom stringers at half thickness of the plan and build it in two halves on the board. I think this would be easier than trying to build it in one go as the plan shows?

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Hi Colin,

I once built a Catalina the same way it went together very well I recall.

With a round fuselage such as the "Connie" this might be the best way to do it. Looking at the plans I cannot see any sizes for the longerons. But if you reduce the thickness by half on the top and bottom longerons then when joined they will be the same as per plan.

I would certainly go for liteply for the formers Colin there is not a lot of meat on them as shown on the plan

Regards

Robert

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Hi Robert, its Cliff not Colin.LOL

If I made the formers from balsa I would keep them solid I think. What you suggest about the longerons is what I was trying to describe (badly) in my last post.

What is your opinion of the plans? There seems to be a lot of information missing to me. As you say no dimensions for the longerons and stringers, Or for former thickness and material type. Also it shows a built up fin but no templates for the ribs or sheet sizes for the solid ones. I wonder if there should be a set of build instructions with it originally.

I guess you can measure things off the plan but I was taught as an engineer never to take measurements directly from plans because of drawing inaccuracies but I suppose it would be ok in this case.

Really not sure about it with my somewhat limited experience.

Edited By Cliff Bastow on 03/05/2015 15:59:57

Edited By Cliff Bastow on 03/05/2015 16:00:43

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Hi cliff,

Sorry about Colin, I used to know a Colin Bastow many years ago.

I have had a chance to look at the drawings in some detail but on the screen and not in the flesh so to speak.

With the formers being balsa keep an eye on the weight if your going to keep them solid, weigh every piece and use your lightest at the rear end, also remember the snakes / control rods and where they are to run, forward planning pays dividends.

My own opinion on the plans are that they are challenging with a lot being put on to the builder and his interpretation and past experiences.

The plans show a rudder for example but does not show how it is to be actuated, as the Connie has three rudders you could just use the central rudder, however, this would be less effective as it is not in the prop wash especially at low speeds and on the ground, the other two could be operated with micro servos built into the tailplane.

The cowls would be slightly difficult / time consuming as there is four of them to make, (I've stalling with my present build at the moment with the cowls, I'm building an own design Short Stirling and would love a vac formed set of cowls).

The fuselage cross sections do not show the skin thickness and no mention is made of it on the drawings so as far as I can see, so one would have to make an assumption of around 1/8th or 3/32nd but too thin and you loose strength too thick and the weight goes up. The same can be said for the wings sheeting though I would assume 1/16th sheeting for the wings. The ribs again are mostly not dimentioned for thickness.

Information missing - yes loads but it is a plan build and they don't usually come with instructions as kits do, some have build notes on the side.

Measure from plans if no info available, but I don't usually do that as which side of the line do you go and in my day job as a building site manager it is a no no.

You say that you have limited experience, as I have said, these plans are a challenge in my opinion for me, but this is a great forum with many people willing to help out with their advice and experience.

The balsa and ply are relatively cheap in compared to the electrics give it a go, I usually start at the rear end on most of my builds so you get a feel for the build, don't try to rush things and think ahead and how things interact with each other. If you get bogged down put it aside for a while and pick it up later, this usually works for me.

Regards

Robert

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I think I might have a go at the tailplane and see how I get on and then decide from there.

As far as taking measurments from the plan I know its not ideal but I would not be trying to get exact measurments, just deciding if bits are which standard size, so a rough measurment should tell me which thickness it should be. ie if the skins measure nearest to 1/4 say, then its a reasonable assumption that they are 1/4.

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