What soldering iron

[Tony Harrison 2]

Never been much good at soldering, never bothered to learn how to do it properly. But I want to improve, not least to solder up lots of bullet connectors and XT60s. What iron should I buy? How might I best teach myself how to do it properly?

Thanks, Tony

[Dave Hopkin]

For bullet connectors - a small butane gas torch **LINK**

Off cut of wood, drill a hole in the wood to fit the bullet, strip and flux the wire end (the gloopy type)

Heat the bullet when hot take the flame off it and feed in the solder so it fills the receptor - then apply the flame again for a couple of seconds the plunge the fluxed wire end into the receptor - wait until the flux stops boiling and the solder is set - file off any over flow and put the heat shrink on.....

[MattyB]

When talking soldering stations, bigger (in terms of power) is better. Forget 20W irons - you need at least 60W, temperature setting capability and a selection of bits (several different shaped large ones are useful for soldering today's high amp connectors). I have one of these bought last year - it works great on Deans, bullets and XT60s with the right technique:

Maplin 60W soldering station

I thinks these are the bits I bought to go with it.

Edited By MattyB on 10/10/2015 19:47:14

[kc]

Modern soldering irons are higher temperature for lead free solder, so don't use an old one unless you buy old fashioned lead solder ( still available from The Component Shop etc )

Somewhere here on Modelflying there is a tutorial on soldering.   This is the one

A Maplins 40watt mains iron does the job for me.  I like to buy Lipos already fitted with XT60 connectors to save soldering onto Lipos.  Then it's only necessary to solder the mating XT60 part onto the ESC - much less risky.

Edited By kc on 10/10/2015 20:06:32

[Allan Bennett]

I use a 50W Antex iron, an older version of this one. Most important for soldering connectors is to have a large bit -- I use 6mm for that, and have a selection down to 0.5mm for other work.

[Shaunie]

You'll get tons of opinions on this one!

Here are mine.

As already mentioned 60W is about right, make sure it is thermostatically controlled, if you have one that isn't, cut off the lead, hammer it into the ground at the pits and use it as a model restraint.

Use leaded solder if poss, it's much easier to work with.

Use the largest tip you are happy with but not so large it feels clumsy, it's all about heat flow, if the tip is too small then you will not heat the joint in a reasonable period of time. This is why a thermostat is important, the large tip gives prompt heating whilst the thermostat stops the joint getting too hot.

Try CPC Components they have decent irons at very competitive prices.

When making a joint:- Ensure the iron is hot,the work and bit must be clean, tin the tip of the iron, apply the iron to the work, the solder on the iron is what conducts the heat to the joint. As the joints heats apply the solder to the junction of the two. As the joint is now hot you should be able to run the solder over the joint, you will find the solder tends to draw towards the heat. Now this is the important bit; once the joint is made don't take to long between stopping feeding the solder and withdrawing the iron, when you stop applying the solder the flux evaporates quickly. When the joint is done take away the iron quickly, if you are not prompt here you will draw out a long spike of solder, done correctly the solder should ball back into the joint. Let the joint cool naturally without allowing it to move.

Hope that helps, Shaunie.

[Geoff S]

I use a 125 watt Henley Solon iron I've had for nearly 60 years. It was man enough to resolder a vintage motor cycle fuel tank when I first used it (probably stolen from my dad ) so it's more than good enough for battery connectors. For more delicate soldering I used to use a Weller temperature controlled iron almost as old as the Henley but it gave up the ghost a years ago and I replaced it with a Precision Gold A55KJ with easi;y adjustable temperature control and a variety of differently sized tips. I think I got it on eBay.

I'm sure heavy, simple irons like the old Henley are still available and perfectly adequate for bigger soldering jobs, including bullet connectors or even undercarriage legs. However, whether or not you need a fancy temperature controlled iron like my smaller one depends on if you do a lot of lighter jobs like (say) extending servo leads. I would feel lost without either of mine because I've had them available from childhood.

One thing that is well worth buying is a so-called 3rd hand. A heavy stand with adjustable clamps to hold things together as you solder them. It saves you from committing the greatest soldering sin of all (according to my old Dad) - carrying molten solder onto the job with the iron instead of heating the joint to the correct temperature and feeding the solder onto it. They're very cheap.

Forget about lead free solder, too. Only use lead/tin alloys preferably with a flux core. I've been it using all my life and it's never done me any harm ... I don't think

Geoff

PS What Shaunie said, too about cleanliness especially

Edited By Geoff Sleath on 10/10/2015 21:56:25

[Shaunie]

The old adage is "a poor workman always blames his tools", however it is easier to do good work with decent tools. Many people who struggle with soldering find that a thermostatically controlled iron transforms their work.

When working on a lead free circuit board then don't try to use leaded solder, you can form unfavourable alloys. Given the choice though leaded is better.

[TheFlyingCrust]

+1 for a thermostatically controlled iron. I was allowed to keep my one, a Weller 50w soldering station, that I used in a previous job. You can buy spare tips for different temperatures and sizes. But I just checked the prices and... err.... expensive. The station I have is upwards of 150 quid now! It does the job beautifully but its a pro tool and beyond most hobbyists budget I'd guess.

Ian

[Phil Green]

I use an Antex CX 20 watt iron for everything from delicate surface-mount chips to deans connectors to piano-wire undercarts. I find that gigawatt irons aren't necessary unless you're plumbing yorkshire joints

[onetenor]

I use a mini gas blowtorch for the heavier joints and silver soldering . The soldering gun can be used for small and large joints as the heat is instant almost and easily controlled. Remembering to release the trigger when leaving the joint.otherwise it will get red hot ,and if you don't release the trigger sharpish it will burn out. Other wise a very handy tool. Also a gas soldering /blowtorch which as a soldering iron has a very fine tip. The other tool I have is a 30W iron useful for a range of smaller jobs. For Yorkshire joints I can use either a hot air gun or a gas blowlamp which can tackle really large jobs like brazing heavy joints.. Just my collections over the years as I worked in Garages and as a plumber.. Buy the best you can afford

[Paul Harris 5]

Hi

For XT-60 & 3.5mm Bullets I find my Antex 25w more than enough and if I need something heavier then the same iron with a 10mm tip fitted does the job as well.

The correct size tip is often all that is needed and often forgotten when selecting a Soldering Iron.

For me a 25w Antex with 3 different tips, or to be more accurate 3 Antex 25w Irons each with a different tip fitted (Pointed, 5mm & 10mm) does 99% of all my RC Related Soldering.

Paul

[Paul Harris 5]

oops double post

Edited By Paul Harris 5 on 11/10/2015 07:06:49

[trebor]

I usually end up tinning each end to be joined first, let them cool and then dip one end in the flux and just warm the two together. It takes a bit longer but its controllable and seem to work for me.

[Tony Harrison 2]

Thanks one and all for the excellent detailed advice. I've put together a Word table with your selected info, and now I'll go shopping.. Then some practice is called for, got to replace some bullet connectors and do those XT60s.

rgds Tony

ps I don't think anyone mentioned gas soldering devices, such as the little Versapoint that seems well thought of. Are they a different sort of beast, and really not a good idea for aeromodelling...?

Edited By Tony Harrison 2 on 11/10/2015 11:47:11

[Phil Green]

...very handy for field repairs but they dont hold an accurate temperature, tending to be over-hot if anything. I have a Weller Pyro-Pen and one of the attachment tips is a tiny hot air blower for heat-shrink tubing, its my most undowithoutable tool for electronics

Incidentally Lidl do one almost identical to the Weller, £15 as opposed to £80

[Rich too]

I use the Dremel gas torch and love it.