Gary Manuel Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I have a WOT 4 that spent a number of weeks in a VERY tall poplar tree, exposed to the elements whilst I was looking for a tree surgeon to get it down for me . Eventually, I was re-united with by beloved WOT 4, and after a few very minor repairs, it flew again and even went on to win our local club fun tournament. A few weeks later however, I noticed that the covering was starting to get very wrinkly. It was mainly around the tail area, but some other areas were not looking so good either. I decided to re-cover the whole fuselage and patch up small affected areas of the wing. It's Hobbyking film and the wrinkly areas came off pretty easy, revealing mis-coloured sheet balsa underneath. This explains the wrinkles. Damp had got under the covering and was affecting the surface of the balsa it was stuck to. The problem I'm having is the firmly stuck stuff that I need to remove before I can recover it. Any tips on getting it off??? I have tried mechanically scraping it off, but this will take an eternity and stretch my patience beyond its limit. Alternatively, is it OK to leave it on and add new covering over the top (using Balsaloc)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Use a covering iron at tightening temp to heat & peel. Start at an edge & you should be able to peel it in fairly large sections, possibly even whole section without it tearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 hello gary...a heat gun or her indoors hairdryer...will help you along once you start keep moving and as the heat is applied it will come off...bit like stripping wall paper....... ken anderson...ne...1...... stripper's dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 I should have explained that the plastic layer has come away already, leaving the coloured / adhesive layer behind in large areas. It's this stretchy sticky layer I need to remove. I think that heat will make matters worse but I'll give it a try on a small area if there are no other suggestions. PS - I have a thermostatic iron and a thermostatic heat gun I can try. I think using the iron on the adhesive layer will end in tears - and a right sticky mess. Edited By Gary Manuel on 17/11/2015 18:17:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Tried heat. That's definitely not the answer. The bit I tried looks like a welsh rarebit with the cheese well melted into the toast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiltshire Flyer Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I've found the only way to get rid of that pigment layer is sanding, mind you, you could try heating it and use an ink rubber over it to sort of peel it back, it may work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Sanding after heating just causes it to form tiny sticky marbles which make things even worse. I've been going through my chemical arsenal and think I might have found the answer. 99.5% Acetone! It instantly dissolves the coloured layer, then starts attacking the adhesive layer. With the right amount of rubbing with a cloth to just leave a very thin smooth layer of adhesive, I think I will have an ideal surface for applying the covering to - maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I wonder is ironing some brown paper over the back of the pigment might attach it to the paper allowing you to peel it off the wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiltshire Flyer Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Posted by Gary Manuel on 17/11/2015 18:47:12: Sanding after heating just causes it to form tiny sticky marbles which make things even worse. ----------------- I didn't mean for you to heat it, I meant cold sanding 🤓 Is acetone going to affect the wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 That might have worked Steve, but Acetone is so effective, I've almost got the job finished already. Just got the tricky bits round the tail area to finish then it's all done. PS - I've also discovered that acetone is very good at melting surgical gloves Thank's for the suggestions chaps. Next time I'll use a heat gun to heat up the covering, so that it all comes off in one go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Posted by Wiltshire Flyer on 17/11/2015 19:08:19: Posted by Gary Manuel on 17/11/2015 18:47:12: Sanding after heating just causes it to form tiny sticky marbles which make things even worse. ----------------- I didn't mean for you to heat it, I meant cold sanding 🤓 Is acetone going to affect the wood? Sorry WF - I didn't read your answer properly. No this stuff is so stretchy and rubbery at room temperature, it just will not sand at all. I guess I'll find out tomorrow, when I plan to start re-covering it, whether the wood is affected. I certainly looks OK at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 This is my Goldberg Ultimate after a stripdown and repair. The remaining patchs of the original blue covering - I am sure it was welded on! (patches on the tail of the fuse and bits elswhere) I 'cheated' and mixed a bit of acrylic paint and made it balsa colour before re-covering - in fact I think it was Wickes magnolia with a bit of white in it! Does not show through though. Cheers, Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Thanks Simon. Yours looks like the actual adhesive layer is coloured blue. The Hobbyking covering uses a WHITE adhesive layer with a coloured layer on top, then the clear protective layer on top of that. It's the white adhesive layer that is the hardest to remove. I'm re-covering using the same colour scheme as before, so a bit of colour, or even adhesive left on shouldn't do any harm. PS I really fancy a Goldberg Ultimate - Wanna swap? Edited By Gary Manuel on 17/11/2015 19:57:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiltshire Flyer Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 That's a very good idea Simon 👍🏻 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 I had a quick Google to see if Acetone had any ill effects on balsa and it didn't take me long to remember why I had Acetone in my shed in the first place. It's a recognised way to lift the ink off printed plans and transfer the lines onto the balsa - hence it is safe to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiltshire Flyer Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Ah nice one 👍🏻😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Don't use solvents - solvents just drive the colour deeper into the wood. Use some parcel tape, ironed onto the remnant sticky mess and then pulled off - experiment with the angle and speed of the pull. This method works for exactly the situation described in the OP - where the colour layer has come away from the film and is stuck to the airframe. Some before and after piccies of the technique in use -posted mutliple times before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Anyone who makes their own glow fuel should have no problem with this. Nitromethane shifts it .It will also remove /dissolve C/A glue like magic .and no it won't affect the balsa . Any solvents do not affect balsa as they evaporate off leaving the wood unharmed. Just keep it off the joinys as they could get softened I hope this helps John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Thank you Onetenor for that obtuse, and very useful piece of information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted November 18, 2015 Author Share Posted November 18, 2015 Everything looks OK this morning. Now for my favourite part of any build. Hinging and covering .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Posted by onetenor on 18/11/2015 04:01:56: Anyone who makes their own glow fuel should have no problem with this. Nitromethane shifts it .It will also remove /dissolve C/A glue like magic .and no it won't affect the balsa . Any solvents do not affect balsa as they evaporate off leaving the wood unharmed. Just keep it off the joinys as they could get softened I hope this helps John I don't think that there's been any suggestion that solvents damage balsa in any way, it's just that unlike Leccy's method they leave the wood stained from the colour layer of the old film. Personaly I've often used solvent but then given the balsa a coat of light coloured paint same as Simon's method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted November 18, 2015 Author Share Posted November 18, 2015 Well I've started covering on top of what's left of the old covering. I don't think I'll have problems with it pealing! The thin layer of adhesive I must have left behind is acting like Balsaloc and making a really good key for the new covering to stick to. The only problem I'm having is that the sole of the iron keeps picking the white adhesive when it comes into contact with the balsa. I normally clean the sole with Meths every so often, but I'm having to do it after each piece of covering I apply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 If I'm having trouble with the sole of the iron picking up any adhesive etc I keep an old towel beside me & wipe the iron with it, sometimes have to do it with a fair bit of pressure rubbing back & forth. It saves the iron from cooling & any smell etc from solvent/meths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted November 18, 2015 Author Share Posted November 18, 2015 I'll give that a try when I carry on in the Morning Pat. I've just been using meths soaked tissues which makes quite a stink as you can imagine, and also causes the old finger tips to get quite hot. A relatively coarse tee-towel might drag the adhesive off better than a smooth tissue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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