Craig Thomas Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 The pilot seems to be settling in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 She seems happy with it Craig, apart from 1 of the formers maybe John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Hi Craig, In fact, the same kind of problem with both your F3 and your 'cheapo'. The first one is missing a few millimeters and your second is clearly not missing the 'millimeters' , but at least some Swarowskis... and a bit of nail polish on the 'raised' one... Please Sir, do something about it. Hakuna matata Chris BRU - BE / CTR Swarowski Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 Leave it with me Chris. I'll raid the wife's nail varnish. See if I can bling the nails to life. Might even have some stick on Gems somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 Well, just a quick update all the formers are in and glued, and the 1/4 sq strip at the front is in and have now started on the stringers. After all the good advice I've received on spacing them equally, that all went out of the window. I've added 7 of them so far and not a single piece looks equal. I'll add pictures when they are all in. Should be good for a laugh. 😕 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Mine are miles out Craig, once the infils are fitted and it's covered you can't tell, tricky innit John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 I thought I'd be clever on mine and cut the balsa infill/spacers according to the plan, which worked fine for the front former but not so well for F10 where I started running out of room for the bottom stringer. John's right though, once covered only you will know they're out of place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 If I'm honest with myself, I never expected it to be of a high quality build. It's my first scratch built model, and attention to detail has never been my forte. I'll be happy if it flys let alone how close to perfect my stringers are. I mean, don't get me wrong, I would love fo my model to look like some of others that have been built, but I have to be realistic, 1 big part of the learning curve is that I need to learn to control the use of glue. I can't help myself, I just slap it I so that its oozing out of all the joints. Then I wonder why I have dry lumps of glue every where. 😕 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 Craig, there are lots of models out there that are a mess internally, have warped wings, surfaces out of alignment, covering glued in place - but they still fly. Maybe not as well as a perfectly aligned example would, but they give their owners/builders hours of pleasure. It would be nice to know that your model is minimum weight with perfect joints, just enough glue an no more, perfect wood selection and everything aligned to within 1mm, but that does not happen in real life. Lumps of glue on the outside sand off, lumps of glue on the inside are your secret. To be honest I'd rather see an airframe built with a little to much glue than not enough - I've bought a few of the second type and they may be light but they don't last. I keep some scrap balsa handy (i.e, I don't clear my worktop off) and use a piece to wipe out any excess glue that oozes out leaving a small fillet. My airframes don't tend to fail in flight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 Craig, as long as you get enjoyment from building and flying it then that's what counts at this stage. If you enjoy the build then you're likely to build more from plans and kits and that's where experience and craftsmanship start to develop. Besides, your Ballerina seems to be coming along very nicely. Looks quite tidy and the important bits are more than accurate enough to ensure good flying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 Right guys. Whilst glue is drying, the wife is sat watching home alone 2 and the dogs are fast asleep, I'm sat here pondering about the best way to tackle the cowl. I'm unsure weather to go for wood or a glass fiber version. If I opt for a glass one I was thinking of trying a carbon fiber one. You can get a sheet big enough for a tenner. Anyone ever tried this before? Is it fairly easy? My fuse is gonna be silver almost a chrome effect and so trying to get a paint to match will be almost impossible so that's why I thought about a carbon fiber cloth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowerman Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 An easy way to make a cowl is to use nylon tights and epoxy. I saw this system in a build article in RCMW Speedy build,Jul 15, also in March 16 Mini Cavu build. I have made cowls for Mini Jazz and Jocasta using this method and am happy with the results. As an experiment I made one using WBV (Wilco) this produced a good looking cowl but did not harden leaving a slightly floppy unit which could still be used. Pictures in my album. Edited By Mowerman on 06/03/2016 16:46:29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 As you're fitting the 4 stroke I think I'd build a wood cowl onto the fuzz, mount inverted and leave bottom completely open for access and cooling, fit a remote glow for starting (someone's already done this ?) that solves the colour/covering issue and it'll blend in with the model nicely. Only reason I made a glass one was because of access to the lecky motor, not an issue with an I.C one. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 Well, I've finally finished the stringers. Started the infills at the rear. Just have to sand the curve in them some how. Then on to the front. I've also attend the piece of balsa there the rudder sits. From what I can see, the plan did not stipulate what size to use so used 1/8 as had a nice piece almost the perfect size. The next job for tomorrow is to cut the rudder out and instal the snakes. They were terribly curved so have strapped them to a board to try and straighten a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Hi Craig, Your stringers just look great, you know. Don't worry too much about them - as other forumites already said - once covered you are not going to notice any inaccuracy. Regarding the 'curvy' snakes, I had exactly the same problem with my HK ones. I tried to straighten the outer by hanging it up with a 200g weight taped at the bottom. It didn't change much at all. But maybe your method gives better results, so let us know, please. Concerning your cowl. If you never worked with carbon before, I wouldn't suggest you to try it for your cowl. The problem with carbon is that you don't 'see' exactly how much resin is going to saturate it. So, you're tended to overload the tissue ending with an enormous amount of extra weight & even fragility. That's why the pros are only using carbon fiber in a vacuum bag. For small pieces you could also use the weight of sandbags to drive the overload of resin away. Of course 'peel off' sheet helps a lot as well if you have some experience with it. I would stick to glass fiber possibly covered with some carbon-look vinyl if you desire that effect. Hakuna matata Chris BRU - BE / CTR Carbon Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 Ok, after a couple of people's opinions and ease I think I'm gonna stick with a wood cowl. I really want it to be removable, that's why I thought of carbon/glass fiber. So will look at a way to build the cowl so that is removable. I'm sure it can be done, I've seen examples. It's just trying to keep is as easy as possible to allow a novice to succeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 I'll also keep you updated on the straightness of the snakes Chris. Fingers crossed it will help straighten them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Have a look in Peters build here Craig it may help with the cowl John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 Thanks for that John. Food for thought there I think. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Craig, I will build a wood cowl too, and never thought it would not be removable. I think I will build it as described in the article (with the motor installed to get the front ring right). Sshape and sand it and then using a hacksaw seperate it from the firewall. Glue 2 (or 4) small hardwood block on the firewall to take the screws going in from the sides. (or glue to block to the inside of the cowl and fix the screws from behind, through the battery hatch) Lucas I intend to glue two blocks on the firewall to take the srews and build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Mikail Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Great build. Thumbs up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 It's coming along very nicely from where I'm sitting. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 Thanks for the words of encouragement guys. That's. Good idea Lukas thanks. Done some more today have finished the infills between the stringers what a chew on that was. Tried to sand them to give them a curved effect. It was pretty easy really, didn't want them too much as I kept on snapping them. At least I've attempted it, Mr Miller will be impressed Also fitted the wing for the first time today the wing seat is not perfect, but a blind man would be happy to see it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 I'm in the middle of adding the wing bolt plate inside the fuse. Have also cut out the tail fin and rudder. Come to think about it, I've managed quiet a bit today. It's amazing what you can get done when there are no woman about to distract you. 😂😂😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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