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Super Marauder FS


Peter Miller
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Back in the late 70s I designed a cntrol line stunter called Nebula. THis was a lovely model and great for windy weather. I once flew in a Novice stunt event and afterwards a judge asked me "Do you always fly a team racer in stunt?"

I then designed a smaller version for .19 size engines which was just as nice.

A few years ago I took the design lay out and designed a .25 powered R/C version. THis was fast. I have flown it in winds gusting up to 30 mph. It didn't half move going down wind on that day!!

Recently I have been feeling totally burnt out and lacking in inspiration. and then I tought tht maybe a larger model with a bigger, thicker wing would be nice as I find small fast jobs are a bit hard on these old eyes and fingers.

This is the history of Super Marauder FS.

Now on to the building. Nice and very simple because I am still lacking in much drive.

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The fuselage is very simple butthe cowling gets complicated

marauder fs 001.jpg

The box is pretty standard but with 1/4" triangular stock on the edges

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The underside view Note cockpit floor. The tank is accessable when the cowl is removed.

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The nose is built with 1/2" sheet grafted onto the fuselage sides

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At the rear there is a 1/2" sheet tailplane platform. This is used to take the dowels that hold the fin on as we shall see.

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The sheet tailplane platform fitted.

marauder fs 005.jpg

The fuselage with all the bits including the 1/4" sheet top.

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The fin is vertially just butt gued to the tailplane with very little support. This is a disaster waiting to happen.

marauder fs 016.jpg

The tailplane is spot glued down and holes are drilled using an angle guide.

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1/4" dowels are glued into the fin and these go through the tailplane and that 1/2" sheet block under the tailplane.

marauder fs 019.jpg

Which then seats firmly on the tailplane. There are two very small fairing blocks that just fair the fin into the spine.

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marauder fs 020.jpg

The cowling is built from parts cut from the fuselage sides. with a 1/4" sheet bottom, 1/8" liteply duct roof, and ply intake outlines. The two long 3 mm caphead screws hold the cowl on.

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In side view of the cowl with engine compartment and tank bay.The hard wood blocks just behind F-1 hold blind nuts for the cowl hold down screws. The two hardwood blocks in the cowl are drilled for the long cowl hold down screws

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This view shows the tank location and the cut away in the duct roof. to clear it.

I will have to arrange some shielding as it is possible that the hot air from the engine could make the fuel boil off. I have had this happen with a rear exhaust engine but that was hot. THe fuel boiled out of the vents in a C/L stunt tank in about three laps!!

A remote glowplug connector will be fitted in the side of the fuseage.

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  • 1 month later...

Finally finished the Suoer Marauder. No wing pictures have been posted as they are almost the same as all my others.cheeky

The model is 58" span, nearly 600 sq in, weighs a mere 5lbs 4 ounces with a wing loaiding of 20 oz per sq. foot. Power is an OS FS 52 .

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Now all I need is a calm, sunny, warm SUnday to get the test flight and flying shots.

OH, and it only needed 2 1/2 ounces of lead in the tail to get the balance right.

Edited By Peter Miller on 17/03/2016 09:35:37

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Thanks for the kind remarks

As I said, originally the styling staged tout on my contolline stunters from the 70s. I have always thought of a Chnace Vought Corsair in the past I didn't think of it in this case.

I always fancied a Corsair with the wing tilt as an R/C model. Must do it one day.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted by Tony Cook on 11/04/2016 19:54:49:

Very Nice Peter, new to forum after joining UKCAA, really enjoy the older stuff (must be a sign of getting older) do you have any problems with inverted FS installation? If so what do you do to remedy poor starting/idling?

I don't have ANY problems with starting and a superb tick over just above stopping setting.

Plans will be sent in in a few weeks, juust got to inish the plans and write the text and I have other jobs to da before then. Anyway next month is my Peyret Maubouusin plans in RCM&E. Pronounced Payray Mahbooson. After that it is up to the Editor

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  • 3 months later...

Hello. I've been out of fixed wing modelling for a few years now but seeing this plan in a copy of RCM&E I bought whilst on holiday I decided I had to get back in and build this beautiful simple (?) model.

I am looking for advice as to how the wing is built. I am concerned about building it flat with no unwanted twists.

As the wing tapers slightly towards the tip,would it be better to to place a tapered packing piece,at the T.E. on the board to counteract this?

As I am going to fit retracts I will need to build it slightly differently to keep the bottom sheeting off til I've sorted them out.

I am hoping that Peter or anyone else might have some photos of this or similar wing builds to assist me.

Thanks in anticipation .. John

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Hi John.

The wing sequence in the instructions works perfectly as described and guarantees a perfectly true wing.

Now you will see that I fitted the U/C mount loosely on top of the bottom sheet, then added the wing ribs and then lifted the 1/4" ply U/C mount up and glued it ti the ribs as the lower sheet was raised to fit the underside of the leading edge.

I used exactly the same method when I built my Dalotel with retracts for R|/C Model World.

So cut your ribs to suit the retract bearers. Lay them down instead of the 1/4 ply U/C mount and then carry on with the sequence.

Once you have completed the wing you lift it from the board and cut away the sheet for the retracts.

Trust me, it works. I shall be using the same method on my next scale model which also has retracts.

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