Hamish Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 My first blog which will have as many questions as answers. A start made This will be a basic build with no jigs etc and only hand tools. An example of my balsa stripper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Your first blog, Hamish... ... and I'm your first visitor. If that's your "balsa stripper", I'm wondering about your 'heavy' hammer? Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Love your balsa stripper Hamish, enjoy your build John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted December 7, 2016 Author Share Posted December 7, 2016 This is the tool I use for the "precision " work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Feather Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 you mean that big screwdriver on the left? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted December 7, 2016 Author Share Posted December 7, 2016 No! that's the watchmakers tool. (What screwdriver? eyesights getting worse) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Are you building from the kit or from scratch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted December 7, 2016 Author Share Posted December 7, 2016 In the title "A scratch build" Enjoying the freedom a scratch build gives in changing shapes and sizes to suit materials I have . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted December 9, 2016 Author Share Posted December 9, 2016 Slow progress but fuz formers cut out. The rear wing fixing not clear on the plan so made up a plate. Not to keen on the front wing fixing with a peg some distance from front of wing so made a similar plate and will bolt down from top. Hopefully will glue formers in place today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted December 27, 2016 Author Share Posted December 27, 2016 Just a quick update on progress, which has been slow. Tail feathers made with a modification that I abandoned the hardwood joiner in the elevator and replaced it with piano wire, easier and saves cutting a junk out of the rudder. Having cut out the wing ribs I used them as a template to fashion the block in front of wing , W35. I made this difficult for myself in that I should have retained the block as a square and then I would have been able to mark the rib profile on the side to cut out more accurately but lesson learned. Main spars W1 & W10 have been replaced with spruce and dihedral braces cut out from 3.5 mm ply as it was what I had. Following on from David Davis's excellent link to theTopmodel's ARTF I will be using a Satio 40 I have which has had the bearings replaced and is running very well. I just consider models of this type must have a 4 stroke engine fitted. Must get on, Hamish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 Hi Hamish, Not a "slow progress" at all. It seems that all your small bits and pieces are cut and prepared already. Your tailplanes are done and you made a start regarding the wing. I would call that a nice progress. Do you think it is necessary to use spruce for the spars instead of hard balsa? Their 'section' is quite deep on the plan. By the way, how went your fuselage? Did you build the sides following the plan or did you use the 'twin' method? Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 Hi again, Hamish. And sorry to interrupt here once more, but I have been looking at the Vicomte plan again and I really don't feel the need to replace the balsa spars by spruce. They are a vertical 10 x 3mm. So, that combined with the LE and other top spars gives plenty of strength in what's becoming a 'virtual' D-box. If you're really 'worrying', you could combine a 3x3mm spruce on the outsides with a 7x3mm balsa piece to make up the showed dimension. But, it's 'your'' build, of course. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 Only thing that matters is what Hamish thinks, looks an enjoyable build John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 OK, fine for me anyhow. I just apologize for my two earlier posts then, John. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 Apologies are not needed Chris, the beauty of blogs is being exposed to different ideas, we all see things from our own perspective and then we choose to follow a plan or mod it, vive le difference. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven S Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 Yes, my preffered method is to use 1/4x1/4 balsa spars with 1/16th vertical webbing, so that's what my Baron will have.Chris - maybe you should start a Baron discussion thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 Posted by Steven Shaw on 27/12/2016 19:59:59: Yes, my preffered method is to use 1/4x1/4 balsa spars with 1/16th vertical webbing, so that's what my Baron will have. I'm sure that will be fine. I'm restricted to working with the kit materials. I think that the kit is over-engineered. It's supposed to be a trainer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 John, I just forgot for a moment that the advice from an 'apprentice' couldn't be appreciated as a "different" but honest one. The target for the Vicomte is a dry weight of 895gr. I was just trying to avoid Hamish to have surplus weight - even at the CoG - right at the start of his build. I realize the Vicomte isn't a common build in the UK but there are thousands of them flying perfectly - even as a slow trainer - in France following the 'original' Chauzit plans. But then as you wrote > "Vive la différence"... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 @ Steven, As I thought your proposal was worth the attention, I just created a 'General Info Thread' for the Baron or Vicomte. So, we won't interrupt Hamish's build blog anymore... You can all find it here. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted December 27, 2016 Author Share Posted December 27, 2016 I appreciate all the comments that are being made and take them as nothing but constructive. I recently lost a Baronnet, which is virtually identical, but smaller, due to the wing folding. I suspect I had damaged the wing and this was the reason it folded and not through the design. In view of the wing folding I decided to upgrade the wing in the Vicomte by increasing the size of the spars and replacing the main spars with spruce. Overall I do not consider the change will make a massive bit of difference to a power model but will give me the confidence that I should have a strong wing. I had also considered fitting webbing however was advised that this was to prevent the wing twisting in aerobatic manoeuvres, something I understand this model was not designed for or capable of. I appreciate all comments so keep them coming. Starboard wing 80% complete. On a different topic , having lost three models in a row, I have lost confidence in my Taranis, even although it was checked by a competent engineer and tomorrow am picking up a Spectrum DX7 which will compliment the DX6i I have. Stopped building at this time as I need good daylight. Hamish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted December 31, 2016 Author Share Posted December 31, 2016 Just a quick update as starboard wing section complete. Following David's blog No1 I infilled between the main spars where the dihedral brace will be. Included in the photo are two tools that I recently purchased which have made the build so much easier and more accurate. Previously I just hacked away with a scalpel but now use the saw which gives me a vertical clean cut. In addition the Permagrit block can be slid across the bench with part being modified on the chopping block ensuring a square face. Will make a start to the port wing. Hope my rambles may help somebody. In advance, a good new year to one and all Hamish Edit. Decided to make the wing tip as per the Baronette and Duke as much easier. Edited By Hamish on 31/12/2016 11:50:11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 An update on the current build. All the balsa bashing has been done and the metalwork for the undercarriage. I made the bending jig as described on another thread and what a difference it made in forming the undercarriage. I also made a jig to hold wire in position for the silver soldering. I have shown them in a pic, not very elegant, but did the job. The wheels are not really appropriate to the model but until I source a more suitable wheel will make do. Will be using the old OS40FS shown in pic. I stripped it, replaced all the bearings, decoked and ground valves in and it runs a treat. Just noticed that no rear skid fitted o will attend to that and then start covering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Good progress made and now ready for maiden once the wind drops. Clever me fitted the battery off/on switch exactly where the CoG is marked only to find it tends to restrict the throttle push rod but it does appear to be working ok. The old OS I fitted does not have an output for pressurising the fuel tank and previously ran ok. How it continued to run I am not sure as I only had a fuel outlet and a filling tube which was sealed so I assume could have created a vacuum within the tank?? Have fitted an open loop this time just in case. Hopefully wind drops over the next few time, but anyway on with the next project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Just on the OS40FS Hamish, I was lucky enough to spot a 4 stroke bullet silencer, with nipple at the last Nat's swapmeet for a few quid, and it fitted perfectly. The point being that with pressure added, the tickover and running were greatly improved, as well as drawing a whole tank of fuel to empty. Though motors do run without pressure, I found the motor stopped at an optimum point with fuel still in the tank, probably below the gravity fed level\ suction level Edited By Denis Watkins on 25/01/2017 17:02:43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Thanks for the info Denis. I will see how I get on and can easily silver solder a take off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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