Ron Gray Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 Yep, sure was, but PS2 handled it so well. I can confidently say that it is a ‘plane for all weathers but some of that maybe down to me using a 4S 3700 pack. What really got me was the lack of a stall, as I said above I did try it both up and downwind and I should also add that the C of G was spot on (tested in all the usual ways, inverted 45 degree half throttle climb, vertical dives, inverted flight, knife edges). A club member asked me what it glided like so I took it up quite high and quite a way out upwind. I then cut the throttle and flew it ‘glider style’ for the best part of 2 minutes before landing it on the strip and not once did I touch the throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 2, 2021 Author Share Posted April 2, 2021 That is great news. I am inspired to update my original 50" span Peggy Sue. Just been looking at the plan and there is a lot that could be done there. Not least the copious use of 1/64" ply that would cost a fortune these days. Also standard size servos. That was 21 years ago!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 (edited) Second video with more aerobatics thrown in and a bit of a ropey landing (no damage!!) Edited April 2, 2021 by Ron Gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 2, 2021 Author Share Posted April 2, 2021 She will great flick rolls too. Full up, Full aileron full rudder all at once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 Ron, that windscreen being removeable with the hatch looks a good idea for battery access, but I wonder if you did it again would you incorporate more of a frame at the top where it meets the former? Or has it proved just right as shown? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 @Peter Millerforgot to try that, something for next time. Did try prop hanging though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 @kcthe hatch works really well, I copied it from the one I made for my Sig Rascal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 Ron said Peggy Sue 2 flew like a Wot4 which is praise indeed. I looked at the wing section and it does seem rather thick and blunt in the manner of Wot4 etc etc but probably not as thick. I always look at the wing section before considering to build a model - the thicker sections always seem to fly better and best of all they don't seem to speed up if you make a mistake and the model heads for the ground. Gives that vital few extra seconds to recover the situation! Comparing PS2 to the 50 inch Peggy Sue 1 it seems rather thicker in section. Difficult to tell but it looks that way. The original Peggy Sue plan is on Outerzone if you want to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 2, 2021 Author Share Posted April 2, 2021 The wing section on the original Peggy Sue was NACA 2412. Peggy Sue 2 is almost certainly NACA 2413 or 14, or it may be 3413 or 14. It is on my old Vista laptop that takes ages to boot up. Next time I am on that I will check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 @kcif you’re thinking of building the Peggy Sue 2, don’t! By don’t I mean don’t think about it just build it, you will not regret it. If you want a model that is a genuine ‘go to’ model then as far as I’m concerned this is the one. The conditions I flew it in yesterday were not ideal (just look at the weather dock and smoke in my videos) but it was a pussy cat to fly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Studying the PeggySue 2 plan it seems you need to understand the various layers of the fuselage. At the cabin area there is a 1/4 sq that only goes just past the wing and has ply behind it and ply outside to form the windows. They all meet at this 1/4 sq part. All on the plan but not obvious at a glance. Peter's photos show this better than the plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 If you study it.The 1/4" sq goes back to a scarf joint with the rear longeron. Then there is the 1/4" sheet wing seat which sits on top of that and goes back beyond the trailing edge and then is cut down to match the scarf joint of the top 1/4" sq and the rear longeron. The ply is mainly a wing frame but does add strength. Between the sides and butting up against the F-4 is the 1/4" ply mount for the wing bolts. Basically build the two sides out of the 1/4" sq and the 1/4" sheet wing seat and all should become clea. I am thinking (only thinking) about an electric variation on the original Peggy Sue customised to look a bit more like a Rearwin Speedster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Not sure if these help One side on top of the other, viewed from the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 Yes.That shows it all very clearly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Ron's photos toqether with Peter's show it clearly. At a quick glance most of the balsa needed is a dozen 1/4 sq strips, 4 pcs 1/8 by 1/4 strips, 5 sheets of 1/16 by 3, 2 sheets of 3/32 by 3 and a sheet of 1/4 by 4 plus a few odd pieces of balsa and some ply. Very economical 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Make that 6 pcs 1/8 by 1/4 - I didn't notice the two underneath. Seems like 14" by12" of 1/32 ply, 7" by 5" of 1/8 liteply and 12" by 5" of 1/4 birch ply would suffice. Plus some 1/2" by 4" balsa for the cowl ( maybe half a sheet) and some small bits of 1/8 balsa would be enough wood for this model. I would always add a few spare sheets to the order for mistakes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 I usually have a good stock of wood and also a large scrapbox sojust go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 That's what I did Peter although my cowl was 3D printed as were a couple of formers, the battery box / tray and the aileron servo mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 6, 2021 Author Share Posted April 6, 2021 I do have a 3D printer (A freebie from Amazon) but never managed to do much with it. It is on loan to someone who has done even less with it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 (edited) It’s one of those bits of kit that I wonder how I managed without it before! And it’s not just used for model bits, all manner of things around the house have been printed and over the weekend my son-in-law asked me if I could design and print a couple of blanking plugs to fit his ‘bike as he had lost his! Edited April 6, 2021 by Ron Gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 6, 2021 Author Share Posted April 6, 2021 The problem is that if I started printing out cowlings etc I have a feeling that I would then be spending my time printing them out all the time once a plan came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 It can take over! The cowl took about 15 minutes to design and then left the printer to print the draft one overnight (4 hours). I then redid it as I wanted it thinner so another 10 minutes to redraw then another print. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 6, 2021 Author Share Posted April 6, 2021 I wish you could print off a new bonnet for my car.Only plastic but the wind ripped it off.Lots of broken spare ones. A new one from Italy £200 for a bit of moulded plastic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 21 hours ago, Ron Gray said: It can take over! The cowl took about 15 minutes to design and then left the printer to print the draft one overnight (4 hours). I then redid it as I wanted it thinner so another 10 minutes to redraw then another print. A bit off-topic but what CAD s/w do you use, Ron? I have a 3D printer winging (or floating) its way from Bangood as I write and, to be honest, I'm half-dreading being unable to make good use of it as I have very limited CAD experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 23 hours ago, Peter Miller said: I wish you could print off a new bonnet for my car.Only plastic but the wind ripped it off.Lots of broken spare ones. A new one from Italy £200 for a bit of moulded plastic. That's not bad Peter, modellers are paying about £500 for a chunk of moulded foam.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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