Den Moran Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 Hi, Does anyone know where I can get a pukka wiring diagram for a basic i/c layout, please? Cheers, Den. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 Just battery, receiver through switch Den? Or something more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 If you mean for petrol Den, have a look in dle manual here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Den Moran Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share Posted August 9, 2017 I just mean an absolutely basic circuit showing a glo setup. I used to use a nimh four pack, and just need to know the layout - really basic! Cheers, Den Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 This is an old diagram Den, but just substitute NiMH for the drawn NiCad A four cell, 4.8v NiMH is still a valid installation The loose cable from the switch is the charging cable Edited By Denis Watkins on 09/08/2017 21:10:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Den Moran Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share Posted August 9, 2017 Thats just what I wanted - thanks, Den , and everybody! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 How about THIS..? Ignore the title, the throttle servo is clearly drawn! Edited By cymaz on 09/08/2017 21:15:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Den Moran Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 That's great, Cymaz, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 That wiring diagram is for Futaba with Futaba servos which have a tag to prevent plugging in the other way round. It works just as well other makes of modern servos which don't have tags on the plugs, but you have to decide which way is correct or it doesn't work. Aligning the white (signal) wire is one way but some have no tag and a different colour instead of white. Hitec is yellow ( instead of white) while JR is orange ( instead of white) Extension leads of non Futaba make also have no tags and often no 'slot' for the tag in the socket. In that case you may need to slice the mating tag off carefully with a scalpel. ESC ( Electronic Speed Controllers ) also have no tag so you need to work out which is correct way to insert into Rx. Cutting the tags off Futaba type is OK but you then have to connect the right way round. Very old Sanwa servos with F connectors don't work with Futaba for some reason but all modern servos work with all modern Rx with similar connectors as far as I know. Somewhere there is a page of different servo connectors in colour- does anyone have the website? Edited By kc on 10/08/2017 12:28:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 Can be seen HERE on the Dutch forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Den Moran Posted August 12, 2017 Author Share Posted August 12, 2017 HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEElp! I'm trying to set up a receiver on an i/c 'plane. Battery, an enerloop nimh type is charged and tested. switch on 'plane is tested working well. Battery wire to switch switch wire (NOT the charging lead!) to receiver last position (bat/bind pins) put in a servo wire (elevator servo- tested, working) Switch the transmitter on Switch the power supply switch on....... nothing , no light on the (brand-new) receiver, no servo movement ---- zilch! What am I missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 ... sounds like you omitted the 'binding' phase first, Den... ... but then I'm only an apprentice, so I'll grab my coat... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Den Moran Posted August 12, 2017 Author Share Posted August 12, 2017 Hi, Chris - I 'bind' my electric ones to match the esc, but how to bind an i/c which does not have an ESC, or even an available bind plug slot ( because for the i/c setup, its a .Bat. input?) So back to the question - what am I missing ? On the old 35 mghz, the crystal match would direct the receiver/transmitter relationship, but 2.4 ghz? If its a binding process, how do I do that for the i/c setup. please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 Perhaps the battery does not have a tab so it has been put in the wrong way round. Make sure the black wire is on the correct side. Same with the switch harness lead - could be wrong way round if no tab fitted. If so have you bound the Rx to Tx see instructions for that TX. Edited By kc on 12/08/2017 18:11:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 What make & model of radio? Anyway binding is the same for ic once power is switched on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 Just plug your battery pack into any of the servo outputs whilst you use the bind plug. The positive and negative tracks are common to all the ports, so it makes no difference. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 Den, I think your Tx has to 'talk' to your Rx first. Check your binding procedure for your equipment, but generally > - put your 'bind' plug into 'bind/bat'. - connect power from your battery to the Rx. Any of the open spaces will do as it's a 'common rail' anyway. - pull ( or press) your bind switch on the Tx and switch it on. - after binding is done, remove the bind plug, switch off your Rx and to end switch off your TX. But this should be very probably better explained in you Tx/Rx manual. Cheers Chris EDIT > Tim was a looot faster. Sorry. Edited By McG 6969 on 12/08/2017 18:22:47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 Of course you don't have bind plugs with Futaba FASST only Spektrum etc. All the Rx I have in models have the black leads adjacent to the outer edge of the Rx case - thats Spektrum AR610. Futaba 617F and FRsky TFR6. And the white ( or yellow etc) leads are towards the label on the case. So it's fairly safe to say thats most RX. are like this. If you have the black lead from the battery or the switch with the black lead on the other side that's the fault. Two other possibilities are that you 1. used the charging lead from the switch instead of the Rx lead. This means it would work with the switch OFF but not when it's ON. 2 . you have the switch on/off plate the wrong way round so that it shows ON when the switch is actually OFF Edited By kc on 12/08/2017 19:05:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Den Moran Posted August 12, 2017 Author Share Posted August 12, 2017 I'll try that , thanks everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Den Moran Posted August 12, 2017 Author Share Posted August 12, 2017 I've sorted it out, thanks to your help - I double checked the throttle settings, and eventually hit the right combination! All the servos/control surface flicked into position, to my great relief. So once again, thanks, all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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