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New switch required


cymaz
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THESE are a bargain at the moment.

Ideal for petrol with electronic ignition. Switch for the ignition, switch for the receiver and a fuel dot for the juice.

Also ideal for glow with battery / switch redundancy.

I ordered some and they have arrived this morning. Proper AGM switches in sealed packets.

 

Edited By Gary Manuel on 06/09/2017 12:54:18

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Posted by Peter Christy on 03/09/2017 23:09:20:

Cymaz, I don't like the look of those crush marks on the wires, where the back of the case has obviously been trapping the wires. Proceed with caution!

--

Pete

I filed out the indents on the back cover to release the bending strain when the lid clipped on. It seems to work. Have holiday today so will work on my other switches. I have a hot glue gum and will experiment with that. If it works then it will be quicker than epoxy.

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My new switch arrived. Its a Etronix from RCWorld

new switch4.jpg

The switch movement is very positive and needs firm movement to move the toggle. It should not be able to switch it accidentally. The quality of the machined body is very good. The charge socket has its own separate bay and is fixed by a plastic grub screw.

new switch6.jpg

The only problem I can see is water getting into the back of the switch through the plastic sleeve.

new switch2.jpg

I filled this with hot glue. This will also stop the wires being pulled

new switch7.jpg

new switch1.jpg

new switch5.jpg

new switch4.jpg

new switch3.jpg

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You'd think so, but the only switch that I've ever had fail on me (a couple of weeks ago!) was a miniature toggle switch very similar to the one built in to that unit. I do change standard switches if I feel or suspect the slightest iffyness.

Luckily it happened (a) while I was checking the model over prior to its use for toffee bombing at our open day a couple of days later and (b) on a model equipped with dual batteries and switches so a failure at a more critical time should have avoided disaster.

A clubmate mentioned that it wasn't unusual for these to fail if they get knocked inwards and sure enough, the toggle did float in and out, although the switches are inside the model and unlikely to get hit by anything.

P.S. I do like the look of those double switches that you posted Gary...

Edited By Martin Harris on 14/09/2017 00:00:02

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I forgot to say that the original switch that arrived from RCWorld had Deans plugs, even though it was labelled as jr sockets. A quick email to Martin and the problem was quickly sorted with a new switch...Thanks Martin. The wholesaler had mislabelled the packet.

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Posted by cymaz on 14/09/2017 17:21:01:

Rich, make sure the back of the switch connectors cannot get damp or wet. That's why I filled mine with hot glue. Also it adds some strain relief

Pete on the back of these switches there is a specially made plastic cover covering the terminals offering protection and I won't be using it out in the rain and my shed is not damp wink

Edited By flight1 on 14/09/2017 21:33:34

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Posted by flight1 on 14/09/2017 21:33:00:
Posted by cymaz on 14/09/2017 17:21:01:

Rich, make sure the back of the switch connectors cannot get damp or wet. That's why I filled mine with hot glue. Also it adds some strain relief

Pete on the back of these switches there is a specially made plastic cover covering the terminals offering protection and I won't be using it out in the rain and my shed is not damp wink

Edited By flight1 on 14/09/2017 21:33:34

You could fit one of those little brollies that you get in cocktails over it. cocktail

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Can you guys let us know the make and tech specs of the actual switches mounted in those units, please?

I notice that they are wired to switch both +ve and -ve wires. When making up my own harnesses, only the -ve wire is switched, but both poles are used, so doubling the contact area and increasing current handling capability. I'm pretty sure that's how the bog-standard JR and Futaba type harnesses are made up these days, as well.

It would be interesting to hear pros and cons to both approaches.

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Just done a dissection of a big standard little switch not sure of the make but suspect Hitec. As suggested both poles are used switching the positive. I retire these switches regularly In this case it was a retired switch which I was using whilst gearing up a new model. Although both sides were parallel the radio worked perfectly The on board voltage monitor showed instantaneous bolt drop on servo movement. The new switch that I had on order arrived and did not show the same drop. JR in their transmitters use a grotty little switch and switch two circuits separately. Suspect it's something to do with buddy boxes. Beware of minature toggle switches some of these are as dodgy as little slide switches

 

Edited By gangster on 14/09/2017 22:40:08

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Well had a look at the toggle switch both the neutral and positive are switched ( belled it out) and what i can read on the side says 5a at 125v so it would be more for our approx 6v usage . and i have checked the agm site and they state * With heavy duty switch 2A/250V AC max 20A DC for 10 min
* Very good quality Gold plating connectors

so reading into all that it will be good for 8amps continuously and if you are using 8 amps continuously then OOOh!! you got some big servos.

I change my switches out every few years as a safty messure before they get worn and fail or develop a poor contact leading to volt drop on load, been there !!

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