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Warbird Replicas Bf 109 club.


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Ive seen two of the local guys now finish their 109s and they have both done amazing work .

I saw Dave's one last week but i think he is too modest to post a picture . So ......

I'll do it for him ! Unfortunately the I phone gives a rather "fish eye view " but you get the idea . Its a cracking job with a cool paint job . I really like the all white tail (which takes some nerve to go for ) but looks really neat in the flesh . There are some nice little fabric details on the rudder just like the real thing .

The white tail was employed by squadron leaders , so that his gang could reform on him after they had swept through an allied bomber group creating mayhem . Well done "modest " Dave !!!wink 2109 dave.jpg

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Then , today , Paul brought his one round . Well , I have to say , its a stunner . The weathering is what makes it for me . Its not difficult , in fact its more process than skill . But the end result is totally believable .

The photo's of both models dont really do justice . I did try to push Paul out of the door without the model but he is about six foot four and 30% heavier (no offence ,I'm a jump jockey ) so that was never going to work .

However I know where he lives , so I might send the lads round one night to pinch it back .

Anyway , 37000 viewing on this thread and 79000 on the Bf110 . I'm glad they have entertained people for the last year. We must have tickled the fancy of a few people ,if nothing else .

Paul has documented the build superbly and I'd like to thank him for that , Secondly I would say that in the 25 years I have been making kits , I havent seen one of mine finished as well as that since Kevin Acres did the first 109 in 2002 .

I wonder If Graham Ashby has tuned in to this thread ? As I know he enjoyed Kevin's model so much he made him bring it to office for photos way back then . Graham's a good lad by the way for any that haven't met him .

I suppose it shows that you don't need to spend a shed load of money to build something that would be the king pin in most clubs , Isn't that what modelling is all about ? Inspiring to all of us . Well done lads !

Richard

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I went round to Richard's today to see Paul's 109, this time I took MOAMS instead of Haribo's so the lads didn't savage me. I wish they would go back to smoking the wacky baccy. I have come back home GREEN with envy, you should feel as proud as punch Paul, a brilliant looking model, I loved the weathering and the oil stains just add to the realism. It looked as though it had just returned from a dog fight. The sound system, well what can I say, it sounded just like the real thing. I'm now looking forward to seeing it fly. I only hope my Spitfire looks as good as your model when I finish it.

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Thanks for the high praise guys. Glynn, told you the MOAMS would work.....

Richard is definitely right about it being a process that is learnt...

It's certainly not difficult..... what is does take is the courage to try it out on your newly painted model that you have painstakingly built, painted and now your about to draw lines, rub black half dried paint on it. ..... Then when you have....wow it's worth it.

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Just a quick follow up for the brave who have not tried the weathering before and may wish to have a go.

After you have undercoated and then put your top coat on I used a black thin permanent marker to mark the panel lines, if you are nervous as I was on the first attempt use a pencil. This can be erased using a simple rubber if it's not where you want it.

Once the black lines are draw, highlight each black line with a white pen, ink or gel pens work, draw the same side to keep them looking consistent, I used out board for the wings and behind, then for the fuz, behind and below. You can see it if you look at the pictures. For weathering and shading I used Humbrol dust wash on the upper surfaces and Humbrol ochre on the underside. This was done using a cheapy airbrush and a piece of paper to prevent overspray at the front of the panel lines again look at the picture .

For the exhaust smoke I used Tamiya smoke lightly built up to I thought it looked ok. it's difficult to over do this one as it goes on very opaque. I also used Humbrol oil wash, which is a gloss, to show some 'leaks' in appropriate places.

Go on have a go you know you want too...!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Paul, Talking with Richard today about your excellent 109. It is looking really good with the weathering.

I have to remake my elevators and rudder as somehow managed to warp them badly after covering. A question about panel lines - once you have laid them down, do you then overspray them them with the dust wash to tone them down and blend them together?.

I certainly hope to give it a try on both the 110 and 109.

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Hi Graham,

I held a piece of paper along the lines to create an edge for the 'dust' I didn't use it to blend them in. The best advise Richard gave me in the past was to look at aircraft reference books that have colour plates of the subject but those that are not true photo's. the artist creates an illusion of a 3D surface on flat paper. These very often show how to create a '3D' impression through shading. Richard has previously, on the forums, suggested the use of pastel chalks and paper to create the shading. If you rub the chalk onto the paper, line the paper with a panel line then using your finger rub the chalk in the direction of the airflow you will create a good shading effect. The beauty of using chalk before trying an airbrush and paint is that if you don't like it it's easy to remove.

Don't try to re invent the wheel by trying to have an artists eye for shading...... cheat and pinch their ideas from their drawings...

Richard is correct in that anyone can pay mega bucks to have someone create a model that is a work of art. What we are trying to achieve is an illusion that passes close to the real thing from a few feet away. By us non artist, run of the mill hobbyists.

If you create scale accurate panel lines and individual rivets on the scale we work with you can't see these from anything but a foot away from the model and then with our eyesight... well you get the idea.

Next time your at a museum see how close you have to get to the thing to actually see that sort of detail. Let alone from the air!

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted by parridav on 24/02/2019 19:12:49:

Paul, I've really enjoyed following your build, and am in process of building mine. My question is what side and down thrust, if any, do you have on your model?

Hi

I have none on mine. No doubt this will spark some debates wink

I have yet to maiden her so have as yet no feedback for you.

In my case downthrust, tends to have more prevalence to high wing aircraft.

Side thrust again can be added by washers or mixing rudder to throttle...

Or by a AS3X receiver.... it's got heading hold....laugh

I'll let you know how I get on when she gets maidened..

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  • 2 weeks later...

Very nice Dave . In the bare bones state it shows off the lovely clean lines of the 109F/G .

A very tidy build by the look of it , well done .

Regarding down and side thrust : If you have a look at the plan , you can see that the wing and tail plane incidences are both positive (though not to the same degree) . That means that when the flying surfaces are in level flight , the fuselage with have a nose down stance . Consequently the motor already has down thrust built in because the whole fuselage is at a negative angle . When you watch a real 109 flying , it also has a characteristic nose down stance .

Now, we are using a big propeller that produces lots of torque, just like the real thing . To that end , the throttle must be used sensibly . Side thrust is a bit of a waste of time, but you can add a couple of degrees if you want to . There is an initial surge to the left at the beginning of the take off run , but that should be corrected with rudder and can be easily overcome as long as you throttle up gently . Once in the air the requirement to correct to the right disappears.

The FMS 109 exhibits all of the same traits and has been around for a few years now . It may be worth looking at their thread regarding take off and landing examples . There are some excellent videos on the site.

Its not a difficult plane to fly but that big propeller has to be considered at all times , just like the full size .

I am personally a big fan of both the model and full size . With the sound system in, it is very difficult to fault in emulating the full size .

Keep up the good work

Richard

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I've not decided on a colour scheme yet, so many to choose from, illI wait until I've had my first go at covering with brown paper. Everything now on hold as i go skiing at the weekend.

Thanks for the information Richard and I will look at some of those videos.

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Glynn, are these AS3X units , (excuse my ignorance), stand alone gyros, if so would they work with futaba? I know speccy recievers some have it built in gyros, guess this would be away of eliminating ""fish tailing" ?? Being an old fashioned modeller don't do new fangled electronics very well.i

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Posted by Glynn on 06/03/2019 11:59:52:

Paul

I have two AS3X standalone units, your more than welcome to use one. I had one in Tigger and it was better at flying than I was, they are just sat on my shelf doing nothing.

Thanks for the Kind offer Glynn,

All my warbirds from Richard have the Spektrum AS3X 7 channel receivers in already.

Being switchable from the TX it's nice to have if the wind decides to have a go..!

P.S. anyone know what a clam day looks like lately?

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Posted by gillyg1 on 06/03/2019 12:49:50:

Glynn, are these AS3X units , (excuse my ignorance), stand alone gyros, if so would they work with futaba? I know speccy recievers some have it built in gyros, guess this would be away of eliminating ""fish tailing" ?? Being an old fashioned modeller don't do new fangled electronics very well.i

Hiya

The Spektrum receivers have to be set up remotely using a blue tooth 'dongle' (gismo that plugs into the receiver) and connected via a phone app. Or by a laptop and seperate usb lead. (all Extras to the receiver).

So unless you have a reasonable understanding of the system you will find it daunting.

( I'm an electronic engineer by trade cheeky and I had to go through it quite a few time to get it all talking to the app and receivers, then you have to test during flight to set up the feedback gains, this can be done remotely on the Spektrum Tx's with telemetry)

Still interested? Don't want to put you off if you fancy a go but do do some research before outlaying for one as they are expensive.

Oh by the way they do work really well though as Glynn said.

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Posted by gillyg1 on 06/03/2019 12:49:50:

Glynn, are these AS3X units , (excuse my ignorance), stand alone gyros, if so would they work with futaba? I know speccy recievers some have it built in gyros, guess this would be away of eliminating ""fish tailing" ?? Being an old fashioned modeller don't do new fangled electronics very well.i

They are 3 axis gyro's with accelerometers so work on the elevator, aileron and rudder and work in heading hold mode or Rate. So they help when the weather interferes with the model. They go between the receiver and servo's and you need an extra channel to switch between HH & Rate and gain, I used it with a Futaba 14SG with one of the rotary knobs so centre was off, CW HH gain and CCW Rate gain. When off the servo signal passed straight thru. several times on my high wing trainer I shut the motor down and with no input from me it was putting elevator in for a perfect glide slope, and a couple of times it was so perfect I let it land on it's own. Spectrum build them into some of their Rx's, not cheap they were £100 plus but very good, much better than the cheap ones from HK. They don't stop you from crashing but do stop fish tailing.

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