911hillclimber Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 That’s better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Looking good hillclimber. Just a thought... Is the prop driver fully on your motor shaft or is your motor shaft just longer than mine? I know that I have a slightly different motor. My motor shaft is 13.5mm long and the hole in the prop driver 12mm. Sometimes the hole gets partially blocked by swarf when they cut the slots in the driver. I have a few of these motors. My motor casing is 6mm longer which may account for the difference - I don't wish to sound pedantic! Edited By Piers Bowlan on 11/01/2018 07:53:55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Incidentally, this is how I solder the 3.5mm bunch connectors onto the ESC wires. I drill some holes in a lump of wood and push the female connectors into them. I find it is better than using a vice or mole grip which tend to wick the heat away. I use a pair of thin nosed pliers to hold the wire vertical in the connector when I apply heat to the tined wire/connector. You have probably done this a million times before. The one on the left is the one I did earlier - as they say on Blue Peter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Ballinger Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Definitely better. Talking of soldering aids I found this for a fiver in one of those tool emporiums. Not Rolls Royce engineering but I love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dai Fledermaus Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Just a thought, have you taken into account any down thrust or side thrust which the ic version might have had? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 Just to comment on the points: The drive sleeve/collet is as deep on the shaft as I can persuade it without a hammer! The hub does look too far out as the shaft looks vulnerable so to speak. I'll check it again to see if I can get it a bit deeper. I have NEVER used that trick to solder wires. You learn something every day. When I work on the various cars (real ones) it is mostly done in the vehicle, not a lot of bench assembly so never really needed any aides, like the idea and certainly have realised a few small tools are required for this game. All my tools seem very very crude... Everything you pick up is feather light and will not stay on the bench unless pined or weighted down. I found building the mount quite irritating due to this 'new-world', but this is partly why I want to do the plane, new skills or at best remembering them. You never forget the smell of balsa cement do you? As to motor alignment. I checked the model's bulkhead, the plan on the internet and the mount to original builder used. All are 'true' to Zero degrees, nothing seems to have any angles built in (or drilled into the mount). The motor mounting can be shimmed using 'C' washers depending how much trim the radio needs to dial in on flight. (as if I'm an expert..) Need to cut the top cowl to cover the new mount but it might be easier to build a new one. That will be tomorrow's task although Life might get in the way until the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 Been away from the Stol for a few days, but have the morning to myself, so started the radio side.... The TX I have is a 3 year old Spektrum DX6 unused. It came with the RX and no more.I have trimmed the rudder/elevator Futarba servos and they fit well into the RX. I have also plugged the ESC into the 'throttle' position. It is the rest that is confusing me! The motor has it's own battery, now in the plane.(Turnigy 1300LiPo) This battery has a 4 way connector R/Bl/W/Bk. The motor diagram shows 2 wires going from the battery (big Red/Black) leads to the UBEC (not sure what that is) The ESC is a Turnigy dlux SBEC 2-4S I guess the Blue/White leads are redundant? The motor diagram shows 2 leads from the RX to the UBEC Further on, I think the RX has it's own battery. I presume the connection to the RX is via the 'AUX'. What is a suitable battery please? Help as ever required! I presume I need a separate battery for the RX and this plugs into the RX/ AUX position. Edited By 911hillclimber on 16/01/2018 11:52:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Have a look on the 4-Max website, lots of useful information regarding connecting motors, ESCs etc: **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Woe HC, the battery will provide power for everything. None of the wires are redundant, and it sounds like you have hold of the balance lead, Used in the charging process, and for checking voltage of the pack and individual cells Use extreme care at this stage until you fathom it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 The 4 way connector is probably the balance plug only used whilst charging and it's important to plug that into the charger to avoid problems. The charger should have a suitable socket or it's the wrong type of charger. Not used during flight though. The Rx can have it's own battery or be powered by the ESC when the Lipo is connected. Be very careful to remove the prop before plugging everything in for the first time! Edited By kc on 16/01/2018 12:35:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 OK: Thank you for the advice. Nothing is charged up and I have kept the battery 'balance-lead' not connected. I think I have found my answers to some things. The ESC has the BEC The ESC lead goes to the RX and powers the RC, so no need for an additional battery. The battery has 4 leads used to charge the battery. There must be a need/desire to have a general on/off switch in the system. This model has one for the Futaba system that was in it. I want to have this isolation switch so to isolate the battery or maybe isolate the power feed from the ESC to the RX. Not sure if I really need this switch, what do you think please? Finally (for now....) Which way do the trimmed Futaba servo connectors go into the RX? Does the white wire go next to the function name, or the black wire? Similarly, which way round does the ESC throttle connector go into the RC, Yellow wire to function name? I'm getting there once past the jargon. Thanks in advance! Edited By 911hillclimber on 16/01/2018 12:36:21 Edited By 911hillclimber on 16/01/2018 12:44:10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 If a seperate Rx battery is used then the switch is used, but not used with BEC. Be sure you read my comment added later about not having the prop on when connecting up for the first time or at any time whilst setting up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 Great forum, even better advice! Prop is not on the motor, even I saw that hazard coming my way! No need for the switch, so simplified, I like simple. There are no polarisation notches on the RX for servos etc, but there must be a correct orientation, or is it trial and error to get the servo moving correctly to the stick movement? I need to get a car sponge today to stuff the fuselage and cut out cavities for the battery and the small receiver. I think I need to enlarge the hole from the cowl through the bulkhead for the ESC, I feel it is too small. The ESC will be right on the fuselage side of the b/head so should get a direct air flow to chill it. For the shopping list is a suitable battery charger for the Nanotech LiPo and I would love one of those dremmel kits to cut/enlarge holes etc. My Junior Hacksaw blades seem a very blunt tool on this plane. I REALLY appreciate everyone's help, this is far more intricate than I expected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 If you look in the radio manual it usually tells you not to surround the 2.4 Ghz Rx with foam to avoid overheating. Most of us use a tiny bit of self adhesive velcro on the back of the Rx which then mates with the opposite velcro which is on a suitable part of the plane. ( coat balsa with a smear of epoxy, velcro will stick better to the DRY epoxy) Rx is then surrounded by air but will move safely in a crash ( we hope!) Ensuer the aerials are at right angles or as instructed for your RX. The servos won't work if plugged in the wrong way round. When plugged in correctly they may still need reversing in the Tx memory for that model. Servo connector types are shown here. I keep a copy of a similar diagram on the workshop wall. Edited By kc on 16/01/2018 12:59:39 Edited By kc on 16/01/2018 13:06:1 Edited By kc on 16/01/2018 13:11:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 Excellent, thank you. There is a perfect spot for the RX on the servo mounting plate. I'll Velcro the battery down to on the fuselage floor. The DX6 instruction manual is huge, lots of setting stages which I'm dreading, but nothing on RX installation. Sounds like servo settings will be a tease too! Just ordered the battery charger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 You might get a better idea of how everyone does electric stuff if you visit a club or if you can get to the Alexandra Palace show this coming Friday, Sat & Sunday there will be many models on display on the club stands and helpful people who will demonstrate how everything is done nowadays. Good place to buy a minidrill etc But note that it is not really an aeromodelling show but other types of models use the same technology now. BMFA will have stand and indoor flying. Edited By kc on 16/01/2018 13:23:57 Edited By kc on 16/01/2018 13:25:50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 Thank you, but too far away! Here is the plane with the parts all dropped in place, RX and Batt not velco'd down. ESC is inside the front bulkhead cavity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Servo leads - yellow/white/orange = signal lead, red = positive, black = negative. The Rx usually shows which way round they should plug in: Edited By Ron Gray on 16/01/2018 13:41:01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrman Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Don't rely on just a flat piece of Velcro to hold the battery in place. IT WON'T. Use a velcro strap which goes around the battery and a suitable part of the airframe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911hillclimber Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 Thanks, nothing on the RX about orientation. Will scour the manual again. Take your advice on the battery fixing. not sure how to get a strap in there, but there must be a way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy48 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 You need to fit a proper connector onto your ESC, not rely on the two separate connectors. Its very easy to connect them wrong way round, and goodbye ESC, and probably receiver. They could easily work loose in flight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Screw or glue the middle of the strap to a bulkhead or floor and wrap the remainder round the battery. Simples Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Keeping the aerial well away from the servo would be a good idea with one vertical and one horizontal. Velcro can easily unstick so as jrman says a strap right through the wood is best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrman Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Don't want to worry you but didn't the FAKE Spektrum receivers have no orientation markings on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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