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lipo rx battery


Phil 9
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When I use a 2S LiPo I use a Power Box Digiswitch. It's a bit expensive but is software driven and has an inbuilt LED to provide a warning of low voltage. However, if you are using on-board telemetry, then all you see is a voltage of 5.9 v. So, by the time the LiPo actually reaches 5.9 v it's done for.

I am now also using a 2S LiFe which does not need a voltage regulator as it's 6.6 v off charge. I'm using this setup in a 35 cc petrol model with another 2S LiFe pack to supply the ignition system. I use JR servos and they are fine with that voltage. An ordinary good quality switch is fine with a 2S LiFe pack.

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The other alternative is to use a SBEC, several around but the rating would depend on the size of the model and number of servos. You could of course just use high voltage servos which are designed to run on a 2s Lipo and not use any voltage regulator.

Like Peter though I use 2s LiFe which has the same voltage as a 5 cell Nimh battery, rather than Lipo and regulator.

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I have a LiFe battery and it is this I wanted to replace. The reason being there is no reliable way of checking the remaining capacity. your supposed to work out how much power is used per flight and calculate how many flights each battery will give you allowing a reasonable safety margin. but I'm not great at keeping count of flights and would much prefer a reliable method to measure the battery before each flight hence the reason to change to lipo.

you have just reminded me I do have a powerbox sensor switch **LINK** but I always thought it was a bit bulky for my acro wot

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Where possible I am changing over to 2s LiFe packs. My scale models have just two x 700 ones feeding a Failover switch. I previously used two x 1900 Eneloops. The LiFe packs seem to take very little re charging in comparison for reasons beyond me. I would say that if you do a lot of flying in one session then either re charge during the day or fit spare packs to be safe. There is no way of checking them.

Other models of mine seem quite happy on a single 700, 1100 or 1800 pack.

I also use them in my Tx`s and they seem to last forever compared with higher capacity NiMh`s.

If you are worried you could use a suitable UBEC or even adapt a speed controller.

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You should never leave a LiPo connected and in the aircraft when you are not using it. The current drain with the Powerbox switch is minimal during the time of operation. I always fit the LiPo before flight and remove at the end of the session. You need to have a LiPo outside the aircraft to charge it. The same does not apply to LiFe cells.

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Posted by Rich too on 06/04/2018 07:15:47:

You could experiment (on the ground!) with a low voltage alarm set at 3.3v. With decent batteries you may get a lot of time to land before the voltage drops to 3v and then falls off the cliff. I may try this myself.....

I don't have any telemetry. I think I will try a lipo. It will get rid of the doubt I experience after I have been at the field all day and start to clock up a good number of flights

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I found that my Hitec servos were not happy being driven directly from a 2S LiFe. After taking some measurements, it appeared that 6.2V was the maximum that they'd tolerate before they'd start to operate in a rather jittery manner. Worth checking. Futabas are all happy up to 7V I find.
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Phil: The question I would ask is after a days flying, how much charge does the LiFe take? You can then work out quite easily how much longer you could safely fly.

Personally, I'm a great believer in simplicity. A voltage regulator or battery backer is just one more thing to go wrong. I've also found that nearly ever case of mysterious radio issues that I've investigated can be traced back to a regulator or backer.

LiPos also drop off very quickly when exhausted, and whilst the available battery checkers can give an indication as to how much charge is left, I do question their accuracy! I struggled to find two that give the same result connected to the same battery!

My advice would be to stick with the LiFes, and just check how much it takes to recharge after a set number of flights. That should give you a good indication of how many flights you can reasonably expect - but remember to leave yourself an adequate safety margin!

wink

--

Pete

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Or if you are really worried about power running out why not just buy a spare or bigger LIFE, as if you are considering switching to LiPo you would need to be removing the battery for charging anyway. With my LIFE batteries I do monitor how much I put in on each charge to make sure it seems correct given the number of flights I had . I seem to use very roughly 300ma on my typical 3 or so flights on one of my models . Given the battery is 2000ma that leaves a lot of safety margin. I have telemetry but don’t visually check that whilst flying but do the usual ground checks on servos using it. If you don’t have telemetry I believe some of the other battery testers can also test voltage under load?

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 06/04/2018 09:59:05

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M​any thanks for all the replies. Lots of food for thought there. There is an argument that even with LiFe batteries I should be using a regulator. Maybe Peter is right and I should go with the old adage"if it an't broke dint fix it"

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Just a thought, but for the planes where I use a Lipo for the Rx I don't remove them for charging as they are buried in the fuselage. I just balance charge through a 3 pole socket in the fuselage. Admittedly I only use 2s Lipo and they are small ones (300mAh), but it has worked OK for me for several years.

The downside is that you need to make up suitable adapters to link the main leads and the balance leads in to one 3 pin.

Dick

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Posted by Timothy Harris 1 on 06/04/2018 09:58:25:

Or if you are really worried about power running out why not just buy a spare or bigger LIFE, as if you are considering switching to LiPo you would need to be removing the battery for charging anyway. With my LIFE batteries I do monitor how much I put in on each charge to make sure it seems correct given the number of flights I had . I seem to use very roughly 300ma on my typical 3 or so flights on one of my models . Given the battery is 2000ma that leaves a lot of safety margin. I have telemetry but don’t visually check that whilst flying but do the usual ground checks on servos using it. If you don’t have telemetry I believe some of the other battery testers can also test voltage under load?

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 06/04/2018 09:59:05

that’s exactly what I do, and generally use around 200ma per session or six flights - that’s per battery so 400ma in total. The mininum I use is two 1100mah batteries so tons in reserve.

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Just a note, as my own hangar consists of 12 sport and scale models within 5 to 6 foot wingspan

A 60 size motor is rather big in my collection, so there are not many extra gizmos

All models have external charge/voltage check socket, and all powered 4.8v packs with 4 to 6 std servos

Are checked for full charge on arrival at the field, then every flight after the 1st 3 flights of the day.

If just one green light goes down of the row, the field charger is attached until the beep beep beep of full charge again.

It has been found that although this is not the best way to treat your receiver pack

It is absolutely the best way to treat your friends safety and that of the public, and the bonus is that you usually

Get your model back in one piece

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