Decided on 60cc aircraft expressly designed for electric flight

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Still watching, but nowt to add, you seem to be managing o.k

[Adrian Smith 1]

Thanks for your interest, John. I am always happy to receive suggestions, but so far no major issues. I just felt there is little by way of instruction on t’net for big electrics. I don’t want to start an I/C vs electric discussion, but I just like the pure simplicity of electric flight compared to my time as a petrol/glow head. That said anything over 60cc equivalent in electric is prohibitively costly whilst there is little noise reduction benefit for example with a 100cc electric equivalent.

[Rich too]

I don't care about electric v IC, I enjoy following either way!

[Adrian Smith 1]

Well the servo bling has arrived from Steve Webb Models! Futaba arms are compatible with Potenza servos.

Also bought an HV RX switch from 4-Max

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 03/11/2018 16:26:30

[Adrian Smith 1]

Loose assembly of the aileron servos after putting cyano in the screw holes to harden the thread pretty straight forward.

1.5" servo arms for ailerons.

[Adrian Smith 1]

I had to use a blade to open up the servo arm slots in the elevators. Make sure its a sharp blade though!

The servo slots in easily. I used a thin piece of string to pull the servo wire back out again.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Last job for the day is to install the rudder servo and couplers prior to threading the wires through the fuselage. The manual suggests crossing wires within the fuselage.

That's a 4 " arm by the way.

[Adrian Smith 1]

On to the tail wheel assembly. Looks sturdy enough for the job I guess.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Now to the job in hand.

This where I have hit my first snag. The assembly has only two bolts holes as the fixing plate is too short for any more + the angle of it is way to hight for base of the rudder!

[Adrian Smith 1]

After a bit of thought I decided to L-bend it. Hope this works ok.

Difference is 3 cms in levels.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Final adjustment before finishing.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Next I am going to fix the air scoops in the cowl.

All sorts of dire warnings in the manual if you don't fit them! I used 30 minute epoxy for this one.

Refitted the cowl and I am glad to say the scoops line up fine for my chosen motor option.

[Rich too]

The tail wheel is an odd one, and it has the potential to twist now? It will likely be ok though I would think. I think perhaps I would have just put a slight curve in it.. 👍

[Ron Gray]

I agree with Rich, when the tail wheel bracket deflects, the rudder control wire may dig into the rudder.

Edited By Ron Gray on 06/11/2018 07:20:33

[Adrian Smith 1]

Yes, gents I tend to agree and I can't say I was completely happy with the end result. It's a shame as the assembly itself is of very high quality and I wanted to use it, but I may have to have another think. I have plenty of replacement rod so I will first try the "curve" arrangement Rich suggests. I was surprised given the overall excellent kit fabrication that such a basic error was made.

[Martyn K]

If you adjust the tail wheel pivot so its at 90 degrees to the base of the rudder then it should be fine

Martyn

[Adrian Smith 1]

I had rethink on the tail wheel steering rod as a result of the help received here. I found a slightly thicker piece of rod and formed it so:-

Looks much better!

[Adrian Smith 1]

While I was in wheels mode I thought I do the main undercarriage.

Those wheels are 4" in monsters with light foam solid tyres!

[Adrian Smith 1]

Test fitted the U/C collars and they are fine without the need for adjustment.

The axles are then attached with a locking nut and washers. I also used blue thread locker here.

There is plenty of room on the spindles for the wheels and collets.

I tend to position the grub screw facing towards the ground so that I can still access it if needs with the spat still on.

Finished using blue thread locker on the spat bolts.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Moving on to the rudder, it now time to thread the cables in the usual way ensuring the wire is threaded back on itself before crimping the ferrule.

There is a preformed slot in the fuselage to feed the wire through. I just needed to cut the covering. Helpfully, there is a piece of plastic tube inside the fuselage to assist with threading the cable.

[Adrian Smith 1]

I used a couple of pieces of thin balsa and bulldog clips to strap the rudder centrally prior to attaching the wires to the rudder servo.

The wires are crossed in the fuselage prior to attaching to the rudder servo, as suggested in the manual. Hopefully, it can be seen in the picture. I will obviously be tidying all the servo cable up at a later stage!

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 06/11/2018 16:36:16

[Ultymate]

The tailwheel's the same as Goldwing supply I just used a longer ball link epoxy'd into the rudder and just left the rod straight on my Slick 540, ground handling is excellent

[Rich too]

Posted by Adrian Smith 1 on 06/11/2018 16:17:26:

I had rethink on the tail wheel steering rod as a result of the help received here. I found a slightly thicker piece of rod and formed it so:-

Looks much better!

I agree, that’s much bette. My other suggestion was going to be a much lighter/thinner wire, and just let it bend naturally.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Now is the time to set up the radio and working surfaces. I am going to start with the elevators. The elevators are operated via the Ailervator programme using CH2 & 7 on my Futaba 14SG. I strapped the elevators similar to the rudder.

I was a simple job to measure the distance between the bolt holes on the servo and elevator horns and adjust the push rod length and couplers. The couplers are threaded with one end threaded conventionally and the other counter threaded. This allows the rod length to be adjusted with a spanner without dismantling the whole assembly.

That looks fine.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Similar methodology with the main wings by rigging them up on the main spar. Doesn't look pretty but it's the easiest way I can do it.

Finally adjusted.