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Valdez Stol Record breaker build blog


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  • 2 weeks later...

It looks like you're planing on inserting the battery from the rear of the cabin. I'm just getting ready to cut my formers out, but I think I will start on the wing instead until I see what you end up with.

Also are you going to add the motor 3D files to your link? It looks like something that I would like to put onto the front of my Li'L Cub.

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It looks like you're planing on inserting the battery from the rear of the cabin. I'm just getting ready to cut my formers out, but I think I will start on the wing instead until I see what you end up with.

Also are you going to add the motor 3D files to your link? It looks like something that I would like to put onto the front of my Li'L Cub.

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Having completed the dummy motor, attention has been focused on fitting out the wings and airframe.

I had moulded the slats a few weeks ago, my first attempt ended in failure as it delaminated due to insufficient glue. For the 2n attempt is used 1 x 1/16 and 3 x 1/32, it’s thinner than Peters plan, but laminated is plenty stiff enough, it the slot gap which is important more than the aero shape, after a bit of planing and sanding, the final shape is emerging. I used Titebond glue, leave plenty of time to dry before removing. These come in at 23g each, it the weight of the glue!

I printed up the 10 slat fixings on the 3d printer, to get the exact wing LE profile, I’d traced round the wing profile, scanned the image into inkscape, and created a 2d outline, the SVG file was then exported and imported into 123d and the 2|d shape made into a 3d object, the whole process took no more than 10 mins, I just then printed out 10 fixings, they are hollow and weigh about .3 gm each.

slat fitting.jpg

Slat fixings

slat test.jpg

slat trail fitting, final sanding and finishing still to do, undecided about what glue to use, cyano works well for pla to balsa as does Kaufner 2 part Acrylic glue.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Martin

Yes,the magazine plan was wrong, I missed that when proofing the plan.

I used 2 layers of 1/32" sheet and three of 1/16" sheet. Tim is using a slightly different combination.

He seems happywith hist,I liked mine but Iknow that one could use four of 1/16".I think my original gives a better sharp edge ar reg slat trailing edge

I hope that helps

ACtually my instructions are correct in thex magazine

Edited By Peter Miller on 18/06/2019 20:51:21

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  • 4 months later...

I posted in error on Martins build blog yesterday, **LINK**,

iin response to Stevens question on battery location, I have not finally made the choice, will depend where the CG comes out, I made a hole in former F2 to allow the battery to be located longitudinally hopefully with underside hatch, otherwise flush against the firewall if it needs to be further forward.

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tailw1.jpgThis is my simple steerable tailwheel, it’s based on an HK item, although only the metal bracket remains from the original, a bit of 2mm wire is bent to shape, a 3d printed wheel mounting bracket was printed up, and cyanoed to the wire, a 2mm axel was added and 16mm Banggood tail wheel used, a 2mm nut was cyanoed on to retain the wheel.

A groove and hole is made in the rudder, and the whole assembly will be mounted on the plain, you need some reasonably stout rudder hinges, I am using pinned hinges, fluffy Mylar would not be strong enough.

tailw2.jpg

Edited By Tim C on 13/11/2019 09:07:57

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The HK system works well enough on light weight electrics, Its only about 3gm total AUW. I have used it on several of my models. The main body of stress is taken up by the bracket attached to the fuse, the rudder merely provides the turning action, a pull pull system provides a degree of stretch negating the need for separate linkages, the 3d printed arm has a degree of flex as well. I always use MG servos on the rudder as well.

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I'm building the wings now and came across a small problem on the plans. The layout at the front of the ribs shows the top and bottom sheeting stoping at the end of the ribs. I had to recut the sheets so that the leading edge strip would sit between them. Just some info for any future builders. The red circled notches were just there to remind me to add notches to 8 ribs for the dihedral braces.

ribs.jpg

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I am sorrry. My original plans show the sheet going to the front of the LE. Unfortunately the final draughtsman makes mistakes on a regular basis.

I do proof the plans but some times miss small things like that.

Sometimes I pick up big errors and moan and they are not corrected.

I can send you PDFs of my original drawing to prove this. Just PM me your email address

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted by Peter Miller on 17/11/2019 20:48:33:

I am sorrry. My original plans show the sheet going to the front of the LE. Unfortunately the final draughtsman makes mistakes on a regular basis.

I do proof the plans but some times miss small things like that.

Sometimes I pick up big errors and moan and they are not corrected.

I can send you PDFs of my original drawing to prove this. Just PM me your email address

If so many errors are being introduced why not publish your original drawings without them being redrawn?

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