Will Anderson Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 I am a self confessed petrol head, I've been a keen biker for nearly 40 years but despite this, I've decided to go with electric power. I think that for me, it will allow me to concentrate more on learning to fly without the hassle of learning to start and tune the engine properly. I will keep the engine for a future model once I have more experience. So bearing in mind all the sensible safety advice I've made a test bench for the electric stuff On first attempt, the motor ran but I had no throttle control so quickly switched it off. After a bit of reading the radio manual, I realised the previous owner had it set on mode 1. I hadn't thought of this as it worked on mode 2 when connected to the PC simulator. Second attempt on full throttle read 36.5 amp and 550 watts with a 10x7 prop. I have a 11x8 and a 9x7.5 but I think the test setup is a good place to begin installing the parts into the model. Any thoughts would be appreciated Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 That seems to be as expected, I gave an ecalc estimate on page 1 of just over 37 Amp on a 11x6 and the 10x7 will be similar. It was only an estimate as I did not know all your details. This should fly a 5 to 7lb trainer OK. I think you might find the 11 x 8 towards the limit of the motor, so if you test it, open the throttle steadily and watch the Wattmeter to make sure you do not pull too much current. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Anderson Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 You were pretty close for "an estimate" Peter. I chose that prop size based on your estimate and got an extra two (one larger and one smaller) in case adjustment was needed. I think I'll go with the current setup. My radio has a function to reduce servo travel. So if, for example, I was to set the throttle at 75% would this work with the ESC? The radio is a Futaba T6X Super Edited By Will Anderson on 18/02/2019 17:53:34 Edited By Will Anderson on 18/02/2019 17:54:12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Will Good first stab with the 10x7. However. I would get hold of a 11x5. I think that'll be just right. What lipo battery do you have? Edit just seen from first page it is 4 cell and 4500mah? Plan on purchasing a few identical batteries. Field charging one battery quickly gets old! I take four or six fully charged batteries and this covers the whole session. Even having two helps as you can charge while flying. Although you need a leisure battery to do the charging from. Edited By Nigel R on 18/02/2019 18:05:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Anderson Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 Ok Iv'e found a 11x5, I'll order it tomorrow and keep the test bench as is for now. Next question is maybe for a different section but here goes.. What do you call the part I've circled in the pic? Where the push rod exits the fuselage. I'd like to replace them as they're brittle and starting to crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Anderson Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 Thanks guys. Percy, the picture is one from the build instructions and the arrow was on it already, perhaps I should have cropped it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Will, you might have already sorted the throttle situation, but if you haven't (or if anyone else is a first timer with electric), then read the ESC instructions and set the throttle up exactly according to them, which - as has been noted above - usually means first setting the throttle stick travels to their default 100/100 on the transmitter, then programming the ESC for that range by moving the stick to the limits down and up (read the instructions). I recently didn't do this properly and got into a mess trying to adjust idle and high-speed using the travels. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Posted by Will Anderson on 18/02/2019 17:51:27: My radio has a function to reduce servo travel. So if, for example, I was to set the throttle at 75% would this work with the ESC? The radio is a Futaba T6X Super Definitely not...as others have mentioned set up the ESC as per the instructions so you can be sure you are getting full power & the idle/off will be at the right point. If you find you have too much power then throttle back....that's kind of what the throttle stick does... Oh & whilst you are setting up take the prop off the motor. That way if the motor starts up by accident then no big deal...if the prop is attached then it can really spoil your day/fingers. Sounds like you are getting there Will.....not long until the model is in the air I hope.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Some ESC have auto calibration, I am not sure exactly what this means, perhaps on these if the throttle range is reduced on the Tx, then the ESC auto adjusts to give full power at whatever max throttle it sees, so setting it low would achieve nothing. Others can easily be recalibrated by certain stick movements at power up, if you restricted motor power by reducing throttle range after calibration and then inadvertently recalibrated the ESC it would then give full power at the reduced throttle range. Therefore as others have said, set the proper throttle range and choose an appropriate prop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Posted by Will Anderson on 18/02/2019 19:09:38: Ok Iv'e found a 11x5, I'll order it tomorrow and keep the test bench as is for now. Next question is maybe for a different section but here goes.. What do you call the part I've circled in the pic? Where the push rod exits the fuselage. I'd like to replace them as they're brittle and starting to crack. If it was my model, I would get rid of the screw fixing at the horn - either with a Z bend if the other end has an adjuster (no, not another of those fittings!) or with a soldered on threaded adapter and metal clevis. A constant twisting motion on the pivot nut may well loosen it - even if the grub screw doesn't lose its grip - both of which I've witnessed on more than one occasion! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Berriman Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Hi Martin. Look up Nexus supplies for your push rod outlet covers by Dubro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 hello will, have a look here also for your fittings....you get a first class service from them... ken anderson....ne...1...fittings dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Anderson Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Iv'e checked the model and it has clevis links to the rear horns and at the servo ends too . After a chat with the instructor at the local club, Iv'e decided to keep the IC engine instead of electric. He suggested that you have an extra sense to hear the model in case you lose sight of it (in the sun for instance). Something thats more difficult with electric. So I'll box up all the leccy bits for a later project. Iv'e had plenty of years experience in my youth, building and tuning 2 stroke twin motorbike engines. So how hard can it be with a wee couple of CCs single? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Will You will be surprised how hard it can be. Compared to a motor cycle the amount of fuel that has to be delivered per stroke is minute and as a result more difficult to achieve accurately over the throttle range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 I thought that as well, Will. When I took up aeromodelling when I retired I foolishly bought an MDS 40 to power the trainer I built because I assumed that small model engines were so simple it didn't matter which one I bought and the MDS was cheaper. I'd also been playing with motor cycle engines for years and all 2 strokes needed was a sound crankcase compression which is easy ... I thought. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 Posted by Will Anderson on 26/02/2019 23:06:09: After a chat with the instructor at the local club, Iv'e decided to keep the IC engine instead of electric. He suggested that you have an extra sense to hear the model in case you lose sight of it (in the sun for instance). Something thats more difficult with electric. So I'll box up all the leccy bits for a later project. Iv'e had plenty of years experience in my youth, building and tuning 2 stroke twin motorbike engines. So how hard can it be with a wee couple of CCs single? I'd never thought of it like that but I think your instructor does make a valid point....by listening to the sound of the engine you can often tell if the model is climbing or diving from the sound of the engine. Certainly not hard to operate a glow engine but it does take a little skill...you'll be well on your way to mastering it if you've been into 2 stroke bike engines (RDs or LCs perhaps...? ). Best advice is to ask the guy who turns up...starts his engines first or second time, flies without incident & goes home.... Look forward to hearing about your first solo.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Anderson Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 Certainly not hard to operate a glow engine but it does take a little skill...you'll be well on your way to mastering it if you've been into 2 stroke bike engines (RDs or LCs perhaps...? No Steve, Suzuki man here... 1st twin was a GT185 then a few GT250s then X7s.... crazy days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 "Best advice is to ask the guy who turns up...starts his engines first or second time, flies without incident & goes home...." Bears repeating. Get that guy to check yours over and get it started for you, if he is happy to spare the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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