PeterF

Can't help you on this one, I painted all my wooden structure before painting, then coveted with natural solartex then painted the outside. The only covering that can be seen from the inside is black and my build photos show this. I do not know what the prototype is like but my model being black is not an issue. What I have done at times in situations like this is with plastic handle paint brushes is to bend the handles (heat gun may help) to get an angle the the head, of for wooden ones cut them down then glue them back together at an angle.

I was in the same position with a plan of Miss Lizzy, got round to building it over winter electrified. Flew it again yesterday, a really nice model. See a couple of posts down at https://forums.modelflying.co.uk/index.php?/topic/24961-forum-members-new-models-lets-see-them/page/195/&tab=comments#elControls_996254_menu

Looking at some pictures the movable mounts for the motor/prop combos look a bit flimsy. I know they will have been engineered and should be suitable. They will experience a mix of forces, torque from the prop rotation along with tension from prop thrust not to mention the gyroscopic forces when the props transition from hover to forward flight and back again and added in to that in hover the prop is forward of the hinge point.

Richard, hat off to you on this, I did think about going the chain route because that mimics the full size but could not find the parts. I am a little embarrassed now at not having worked through to this detail. I ended up with a wire breaking on the ground and swapping to low profile servos in the wings. Still flying the plane, last out a week ago and it still flies well and looks good.

Even if the UBEC is not drawing any current the device will still keep the output wires at the correct voltage so the voltage control and monitoring circuits will still be drawing current and there will be some leakage current through the power circuit creating a standby current draw. A 6 milliamp current draw over a week will flatten a 1000mAh battery.

One thing I would suggest is to ask your examiner to demonstrate the A test to you. I am an area chief examiner and find this can be really helpful for both A and B candidates. It is one thing looking at videos and reading texts and trying to understand these, but if I fly what is required in front of them, they can see what is expected and there is no confusion.

Thst sounds like much to much fan for a 2700mAh battery, that size battery is typically running 55mm fans, it.might do 2 55mm fans but not 2 70mm fans. I have a model with twin 70mm fans on 4S, it pulls 105A and I use a 62500mAh battery. Your may not be that high powered but as said above, you should always have a Watt meter to check.

This is an outcome of fluid flow dynamics, for a specified thrust it takes less power to move a large mass of air slowly (prop) than a small mass of air rapidly (ducted fan).

IIRC the government wanted to reduce it to 15%, held a consultation and got pushback from BMFA and probably the RC car fraternity and probably other users/ producers and it was set at 30% so ready mixed high nitro fuels did not get included. Can not remember the exact details.

I am guessing you mean Tayna batteries and auto correct has changed it. They have a very good reputation.

Richard, I have been away for a few days and missed these recent updates. I am glad you have got back to your Moth. Excellent modelling, puts some of my work in the shade, especially the slats, I simply screwed mine in place. I look forward to seeing your ongoing work and the plane flying.

If the model needs me to cut out the formers and ribs then getting started is the rate limiting step, I do not like cutting parts, I find that I am less than accurate. Once over this stage I am OK. If it is a ready cut kit, no issues, straight in and through the build.

Spent a lifetime designing methanol production plants, they typically produce 3,000 to 6,000 tonnes per day, but the minimum order quantity needs a small tanker (ship tanker not lorry tanker) to collect it with if you order direct.

I have had it once on a NiCad Rx set many years ago. Someone recommended running a dehumidifier in my garage workshop to keep it drier, only run it for 2-3 hours twice a day. I have not had black wire since then, but not sure if that is due to the dehumidifier or the move away from NiCad Rx batteries.

First flights today, what a lovely plane, flew on rails straight away and inspired a lot of confidence in the first couple of minutes, well balanced, positive controls and responsive so I put it straight through most of the B test on the maiden flight without any issue. Why have I waited so long to get around to building it!!!!.

Just completed this and ready for maiden at the weekend as weather looks more promising here in the north east. It is Miss Lizzy, a Peter Miller plan from RCME September 2005. I am surprised how long I have had this squirrelled away, I always liked the look of it as well as the earlier smaller Tequila Sunrise. Since stashing the plan away I have swapped to electric only so I have converted this by making the space between F1 and F3 into a battery bay which has plenty of room for a 3S 5000mAh battery and cut a hatch into the top of the sheeting. Other changes are swapping the u/c to a small carbon fibre unit, 3D printing the cowl and moving the tailplane servos to the rear to offset the battery weight. The pilot and windscreen are also 3D printed. It all comes out to 4lbs 1oz including the battery and with 525W of power it should have good flight performance. ps, I have just gone back and checked Peter's build article (RCME Miss Lizzy build article) for the weight and that states 4lb 1oz, exactly the same as I have achieved with my electric conversion. Just curious if the quoted weight is with or without fuel, mine is in flying condition including the battery weight (13oz).

Are the ailerons the same thickness, are the control horns on the ailerons set the same distance back from the hinge line. Otherwise as per Martin, it depends how you have generated 4 servo outputs from the Tx / Rx and if all channels have the dame end points / mix.

Here is the best one I have seen so far. I was looking at ornithopters a bit just before this topic came up. Very few commercial kits available and lots of impressive solo development that does become available. I would consider building one of these if plans were available. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fBADJ7-elHQ https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SDOsZTtSMjE

One model I use an APC IC prop on is my Ripmax Rapier which runs a 9x7 at >16,000rpm in a full power dive as the motor unloads. This is on the APC limit for E props (150,000/9 = 16,700rpm) but IC at this diameter is good to higher rpm (190,000/9 = 21,100rpm). In terms of relative performance of IC and E props, APC publish information on each prop for thrust and power at APC Performance Data.

Here is a jointed wing ornithopter https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2Nd8BA3OHCc

I use it on rudder, elevator and ailerons.

If you swapped the gimbal leads over what about the trim switches, they will still be in the current locations. Can you get a manual for your tx. As an aside, this is the first time that I have heard of a club specifying what mode you must fly.

Presuming you have a hand launch Spitfire, I have a Ripmax one with 12" diameter prop and have not had any issues breaking props over 15-20 years, just make sure power is off before touching down. I do not have the brake set on the ESC so the prop is windmilling on touch down and it stops on first contact. If the brake is set and the prop stops with a blade pointing down then that can lead to breaking a blade as the brake tries to hold the blade in position. As noted above, with the shape on the bottom of the spitfire nose, a folding prop will still sit proud if it stops when pointing down. As you will need a larger than typical spinner, you may need a slightly smaller prop because setting 12x6 blades on a 60mm hub will give you a prop disc more than 12" .

Just done the account update from the email, password input and all past orders and addresses are on the new system.

Got the email, tried to log into my account last night, account not recognised, thought it was a glitch and was going to email them today. I will likewise leave them be to sort it.