Andy Meade Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 To be fair, I'd look for a decent walk-around online that shows the section. I wouldn't trust a plastic kit as far as I could chuck it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 Punch tanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted September 12, 2019 Author Share Posted September 12, 2019 Thanks Mark, Awesome Pics Andy.. Slightly off topic but my mind was wandering and I thought about what happens to the tanks after being dropped, you may well of seen this before but check this link out, Amazing. **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 Oddly enough I'd just seen that on my Facebook feed just recently. Very clever! The good lady wife took those piccies, she can steer it well when she wants to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 Great drop pictures Shona. Andy (Meade) does diecast make a difference? To the accuracy that is. Diecast is heavier how far can you throw them. Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 12/09/2019 18:58:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 Probably just as bad Mark, if not then worse (yes I did see your Youtube cockpit video!) The problem is, all of the little models are drawn up as artists impressions, or how a CAD monkey might perceive the full size. Can't beat getting up to the real thing, or good photos / videos of someone else doing so. There must be a preserved Sabre in the UK for a group visit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 Yes that sounds good let's do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 There's one at Midland Air Museum, just up the road from here - where we went before as a group. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 Diecast Andy heavier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 Sorry Andy Edmead this is your build blog, we're having a laugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted September 12, 2019 Author Share Posted September 12, 2019 Mark, it's fine, It's not the 1st of November yet, so I will let you off lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted September 14, 2019 Author Share Posted September 14, 2019 I had my first proper look at the plan tonight.... This is going to be a challenge for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 Andy, Take it slow when building and ask lots of questions. There are plenty of Sabres being built for this event, with lots of them hopefully being documented in the various build blogs. I would hazard a guess that you will probably get more than one answer on how to complete something if you ask a question! Martin. Edited By Martin Gay on 14/09/2019 22:23:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted November 23, 2019 Author Share Posted November 23, 2019 Here we go, I've made a start on my Sabre build. I haven't done a lot of building so any critique is welcome. I started off looking through some of the previous mass builds. Picked up a lot of tips. I started off by making a simple bench with a 25mm mdf top and a piece of plaster board. I committed a crime and cut the plan up to make it easier to handle. So started with the wing jig, used some triangle blocks to square it up and pinned it to the plan, only problem its its been on off the plan about three times now. I tried to mark all the ribs etc on the wing skins whist on the wing jig. I found this very difficult and for me it was easier to take it off the jig and mark all the lines on the plan. I also trimmed the skin whist flat which also helped. The skin sat in the jig over night to take the shape, don't know if this helped much. Next job was to glue down the main spar, weighted it down and left overnight. The next day I put the jig back on the building board and pinned the wing skin and spar onto the jig. I now started the dry fitting of the ribs, I noticed a difference between the size of the main spar on the wood list to the one on the plan, It actually turned out to be a perfect fit at 1/8 x 1/4 as on the plan, it looked too small at first glance but it wasn't. Next was to glue all ribs in place and add the top spar, I got as far as fitting the false trailing edge. Now the false leading edge gets bigger towards the root so I assume I just use an over sized piece of 1/8 balsa and shape it when doing the main leading edge??? Just read this back that wont work, need to trim it before the top sheet. I'm going to add my pictures now, below thanks for reading my blog. I have one suggestion, could somebody create a thread with a list of the gotchas and errors as they are found to make it easier for noobs like me. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John H. Rood Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 Excellent, Mr. Edmead! This is gonna be great. Already lookin' like a sleek swept-wing fighter, right there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Twist Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 Hi Andy, nice tidy work there, looking good already! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 24, 2019 Share Posted November 24, 2019 Absolutely, tidy work there, Andy. If you made up your mind about servo wires choice already, it could be soon the right moment to integrate them? Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted November 24, 2019 Author Share Posted November 24, 2019 Thanks chaps, I don’t think it’s that tidy. I’ve used a bit too much glue. However it’s looking ok. I’ve started on the the shear webs and I’ve glued the false leading edge. Any tips on how to trim the false leading edge? To be honest I'm not going to risk enlarging the holes for the servo plugs or any straws/tubes. Im just going to run the wires through the holes. Ive decided to virtually finish both wings before starting the fuz. A few more pics below to show progress to follow. Edited By Andrew Edmead on 24/11/2019 23:07:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 I keep tuning in and watching with interest Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Posted by Andrew Edmead on 24/11/2019 23:07:06: Any tips on how to trim the false leading edge? Hi Andy, Regarding your LE trimming/sanding, I just use the longest possible sanding tool I have. Mine is from Great Planes and is about 30cm long. If you don't have one, just use any straight ali profile and glue some sand paper to it with double face tape (120 > 150 grid will do). Cover your ribs with a stroke of masking tape just next to the LE. This will protect your ribs but also serve as a sanding guide. In fact, when the sandpaper starts to touch the surface of the tape, your job is done... I saw your suggestion of a thread for 'gotchas' and Q & A for newbies but nobody seems to have reacted to it. Shame... Hope this helps a bit Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Twist Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Good tips there Chris, here's another that may help for trimming false leading edges (and false trailing edges). Take a steel ruler and sit it immediately behind the false le and sat on top of the ribs, with a scalpel cut through the part of the false le that sits above the ruler, then cut along the ruler with the blade flush and flat on the ruler surface. This leaves you with only the thickness of the ruler to plane down flush. Cut from in front of the wing. Staged photo shows what I mean ( wing in photo already trimmed). Hope it is of some help! Edited By Harry Twist on 27/11/2019 10:23:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Thanks Chris and Harry I used the steel rule and sanded the False leading edge. I'm almost ready for the top wing skin, just need to add the balsa blocks. However I'm not sure if I've done it correctly please could you check this pic. Thanks Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 Hi Andy, IMHO, that 'dark' piece of hardwood is supposed to be the 'joiner' between the 2 wing halves when you bring them together. And I think it's supposed to be ply. But that's just me. So, I suggest you to post your pic in the newly created 'Sabre Build gotchas' by Martin G and see what he has to comment about it... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 Hi Andy, The original idea was for your hardwood piece to be a single length once the wings were joined. As there are two wing dowels and two wing bolts you might get away with having it in two sections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Edmead Posted November 29, 2019 Author Share Posted November 29, 2019 Thanks Martin, Noob mistake by me, I will re-work that bit. Does the wing joiner go in between the top and bottom wing skin, or does one trim the skin and make the joiner level with the sheeting? Hope that makes sense? Thanks Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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